Real-World Home Power Backup Options Using F-150 Lightning

Hi there - first time posting, big-time F-150 Lightning fan!

Here today as I've spent hours reading as many forum posts and electrician articles about possibilities to use the F-150 as a backup generator. However, many of these posts get in-depth on the "why" a particular solution won't work (particularly around F-150 outlets being netural-bonded / GFCI), but not necessarily exact specifics on how to make it work.

Personally, I'm trying to find the most cost-effective option that allows me to use a standard generator inlet (ideally without the added cost/complexity of a transfer switch), so I'm torn between options C and D below (assuming E isn't really an option).

This is what I've found in order of cost - with a few questions:

• A) Sunrun-Installed Home Integration System + Ford Charge Station Pro ($9,400)
  • Pro: Theoretically the "correct" solution offering the most power out of the truck and as easy as calling Sunrun
  • Con: Most expensive, large equipment, only EVs with a combo charging port can use the CSP (e.g. no plug-in hybrids with a basic J1772 - at least I couldn't find an adapter), Sunrun may not be the easiest to work with
    • Question: Anyone know of a J1772 to J1772 CCS1 adapter?
• B) Non-Sunrun Installed HIS + Ford CSP (Estimating $5k to $9k range)
  • Pro: Theoretically adds some cost savings / customer service improvement using your own electrician
  • Con: Might have issues if electrician isn't familiar with this kind of equipment
  • Detail: $3,895 minimum for the equipment (assuming the CSP came with your truck), so as long as your electrician quotes less than $5,505 you should be saving some $$$
    
• C) Neutral-Switching Transfer Switch + Generator Inlet + 240v Bed Outlet + Cord (Estimating $3k-$5k including EVSE install)
  • Pro: Substantially cheaper than HIS. Flexible backup option as you can just use a regular portable generator and makes your house "generator ready". Forces you to identify and limit backup power to the "critical" circuits in your house, but you don't have to deal with load management as much later (some may see this as a con)
  • Con: Requires a very specific type of transfer switch that is "Neutral Switching". To the best of my knowledge, I can only find 2 options readily available (Reliance used to have one, but recently discontinued it at least as of Dec 2022)
    • Generac 9854 (50A) - $620 - I know the truck outlet is 30A, but I like this option to maximize options, e.g. portable generator
      • To connect a 50A inlet to the truck's 30A outlet, I'm considering using this adapter + a regular 50A generator cord.
    • Generac 6852 (30A) - $380
    • Question: Can anyone share a link to any other readily-available 50A or 30A "Neutral-Switching Transfer Switches"?
  • Detail: As part of this, I actually had the Clipper Creek HCS-80 HVSE installed ($1,066 on Amazon + $1.6k installation for me including local permit) since I didn't want the J1772 Combo plug and big Ford branding.
    
• D) Basic Generator Inlet + Interlocked Breaker + Cord + Generator (Estimating $3-$4k including a $1k generator and EVSE install)
  • Pro: Eliminate the neutral-bonded / GFCI discussion and just buy a compatible portable gas generator
  • Con: You have to worry about storing, fueling and maintaining a portable gas generator + noise when it's running
    
• E) Basic Generator Inlet + Interlocked Breaker + Cord (Estimating $2-$3k if it can be done including EVSE install)
  • ***There is a good chance this is NOT possible due to the neutral-bonded / GFCI aspect of the truck outlets***
  • Pro: Theoretically least expensive/complex option. Allows full flexibility in your main panel of what to turn on if using backup power.
  • Con: Doesn't appear this can be done and meet NEC code requirements (e.g. without messing with disconnecting grounds, etc.)
  • Question: Does anyone know a code-compliant way to do this?
• F) Extension Cords + 120v outlets (Under $200)
  • Pro: Just plug in and go!
  • Con: May have power loss on very long extension cords. Not very aesthetically pleasing. Not sure if this is NEC acceptable.
  • Detail: This literally means plugging a regular extension cord into the 120v outlets and running into the house through doorways/windows etc in an emergency situation.

Phew - that was a lot. If I missed any options, let me know and I'm happy to update this post!

I went with D because it is the best bang for your buck and because E did not work for me in my testing because of the Bonded Neutral Ground Fault issue.

Interlock vs a Transfer switch will get your access to your entire houses electric just not "select" circuits.

D) Another big Pro for D. You can drive your truck when the power is out.

You did not include gas generator to maintain F150 state of charge, while F150 powers home loads. This keeps from having to run generator constantly to serve small amounts of load.

fl2022 said:

Hi there - first time posting, big-time F-150 Lightning fan!

Here today as I've spent hours reading as many forum posts and electrician articles about possibilities to use the F-150 as a backup generator. However, many of these posts get in-depth on the "why" a particular solution won't work (particularly around F-150 outlets being netural-bonded / GFCI), but not necessarily exact specifics on how to make it work.

Personally, I'm trying to find the most cost-effective option that allows me to use a standard generator inlet (ideally without the added cost/complexity of a transfer switch), so I'm torn between options C and D below (assuming E isn't really an option).

This is what I've found in order of cost - with a few questions:

• A) Sunrun-Installed Home Integration System + Ford Charge Station Pro ($9,400)
  • Pro: Theoretically the "correct" solution offering the most power out of the truck and as easy as calling Sunrun
  • Con: Most expensive, large equipment, only EVs with a combo charging port can use the CSP (e.g. no plug-in hybrids with a basic J1772 - at least I couldn't find an adapter), Sunrun may not be the easiest to work with
    • Question: Anyone know of a J1772 to J1772 CCS1 adapter?
• B) Non-Sunrun Installed HIS + Ford CSP (Estimating $5k to $9k range)
  • Pro: Theoretically adds some cost savings / customer service improvement using your own electrician
  • Con: Might have issues if electrician isn't familiar with this kind of equipment
  • Detail: $3,895 minimum for the equipment (assuming the CSP came with your truck), so as long as your electrician quotes less than $5,505 you should be saving some $$$
• C) Neutral-Switching Transfer Switch + Generator Inlet + 240v Bed Outlet + Cord (Estimating $3k-$5k including EVSE install)
  • Pro: Substantially cheaper than HIS. Flexible backup option as you can just use a regular portable generator and makes your house "generator ready". Forces you to identify and limit backup power to the "critical" circuits in your house, but you don't have to deal with load management as much later (some may see this as a con)
  • Con: Requires a very specific type of transfer switch that is "Neutral Switching". To the best of my knowledge, I can only find 2 options readily available (Reliance used to have one, but recently discontinued it at least as of Dec 2022)
    • Generac 9854 (50A)- $620 - I know the truck outlet is 30A, but I like this option to maximize options, e.g. portable generator
      • To connect a 50A inlet to the truck's 30A outlet, I'm considering using this adapter + a regular 50A generator cord.
    • Generac 6852 (30A) - $380
    • Question: Can anyone share a link to any other readily-available 50A or 30A "Neutral-Switching Transfer Switches"?
  • Detail: As part of this, I actually had the Clipper Creek HCS-80 HVSE installed ($1,066 on Amazon + $1.6k installation for me including local permit) since I didn't want the J1772 Combo plug and big Ford branding.
• D) Basic Generator Inlet + Interlocked Breaker + Cord + Generator (Estimating $3-$4k including a $1k generator and EVSE install)
  • Pro: Eliminate the neutral-bonded / GFCI discussion and just buy a compatible portable gas generator
  • Con: You have to worry about storing, fueling and maintaining a portable gas generator + noise when it's running
• E) Basic Generator Inlet + Interlocked Breaker + Cord (Estimating $2-$3k if it can be done including EVSE install)
  • ***There is a good chance this is NOT possible due to the neutral-bonded / GFCI aspect of the truck outlets***
  • Pro: Theoretically least expensive/complex option. Allows full flexibility in your main panel of what to turn on if using backup power.
  • Con: Doesn't appear this can be done and meet NEC code requirements (e.g. without messing with disconnecting grounds, etc.)
  • Question: Does anyone know a code-compliant way to do this?
• F) Extension Cords + 120v outlets (Under $200)
  • Pro: Just plug in and go!
  • Con: May have power loss on very long extension cords. Not very aesthetically pleasing. Not sure if this is NEC acceptable.
  • Detail: This literally means plugging a regular extension cord into the 120v outlets and running into the house through doorways/windows etc in an emergency situation.

Phew - that was a lot. If I missed any options, let me know and I'm happy to update this post!

Click to expand...

Yeah, this lines up with my numbers and thought process I had. I chose option F because we don't lose power often enough to make the other options cost effective. I just need to add an in line outlet to my furnace (nat gas) so I can power that via extension cord. It is hard wired now.

I’m planning on ‘F’.

Another option, although a bit pricey, is to use powerful battery generators like the EcoFlow Delta Pro. I use two of these to provide 240v 30 amps to my critical loads panel. These don’t have the bonded neutral issue that the truck has. I can then disconnect them from the sub panel and charge them from the truck in about 2 hrs.

I used this just last week after a snow storm knocked our power out. The Deltas ran the critical loads for about 15 hours, then when it was convenient (ie, the boiler wasn’t running and nobody needed the well pump) I disconnected the Deltas, plugged them into the truck and charged them back up in two hours. They were ready to go for another 15 hours and I could drive the truck. Recharging them took about 30 miles of range from the truck. I live pretty far from a DCFC, but I had enough power in the truck to last about 6 days, so I didn’t bother going to recharge the truck. The power came back after about 28 hours.

We also have a Tesla to drive and we can recharge it from the truck as well. The ProPower feature is pretty awesome in a power outage. We even “delivered” some power to our neighbors.
The EcoFlow Delta Pros are about $3000 each, but they are also relatively portable (suitcase wheels to roll, weighs about 100 lbs). We take one along in our camper to provide 120v 30 amps of boondocking power. A little pricey, but modular and scalable with the ability to add extra batteries, solar panels, a smart panel and generators if you want.

Nice listing of options!

I'm at Option D for now but I want to move to Option C. Long before I bought my Lightning, I had a portable gas generator with a "Reliance" Model 31410C ten breaker transfer switch already installed at my house. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with the Lightning because of the neutral/ground bonding issue.

I called Reliance and they are trying to get-to-market a new transfer switch that can separate the neutral/ground. They expect it will be several months, perhaps even a year before it's available. They are planning to market a 60 amp and 100 amp panel and expect the 60 amp panel to cost around $300.00.

I checked the Generac models you listed but will wait for Reliance because I was told their product will have wattmeters to monitor power draw on both legs (like my current transfer switch). This way I can ensure the loads are balanced.

Like @Joneii I have two Delta-Pro's with two extra batteries, and a smart home panel for key circuit backup in the house, but I still want to take advantage of the trucks 30 amp output to replenish the DP's

hmmm no mention of any available tax credits for the purchase and installation of the HIS.

Maquis said:

I’m planning on ‘F’.

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Me2. Non short term power loss has been rare for me. Unless it gets more frequent, I stick with the cheapo option.

Maxx said:

Me2. Non short term power loss has been rare for me. Unless it gets more frequent, I trick with the cheapo option.

Click to expand...

I’ve lived in my house 23 years and have only had one power outage longer than 2 hours. It was about 4 hours.

Have fairly frequent outages in Maine. Lasting numerous hours to days. Just bought a Generac 6852 (1/3 delivery) so the truck can use the 240V bed outlet. Also have a gas generator (old owner left with house) so I can use either. My old GenTran switch has the issue with the neutral so will switch that out With Generac.

Has anyone seen this? I have one and going to give it a try.


https://www.se.com/ca/en/product/QO...0a-main-breaker-pon-nema1-cover-with-door-ul/

Is there any data on how future proof this Sunrun/ford installed system is? If I drop the 10k will it work on any EV trucks going forward, only Ford, or who knows at all? The inverter in it, like a any other solar system, should be rated for 10-20 years (warranty).. you would hope if you dropped the cash on the system it would be compatible for at least that long.

This snow-a-cane going through the midwest right now is making me question if I should have gotten one of these.

When the industry is still fairly new charging has not been standardized although its close now. Chargers are getting more efficient the government is getting more involved.

There is no future proofing.

it takes a while for things to standardize.


with that said the electrical install part of it should be good to go for a long time