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60 Amp install for FCSP at $1,500, or 80 amp at $2,200. Is it worth the extra $ ?

FlasherZ

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So instead of using this massive battery as a buffer for demand, while mostly feeding PV to load (as most battery/PV systems do), they just cut the AC output from PV. Sad if true.

I had read somewhere that HIS charges the battery via PV DC (when grid down), that is a great and efficient workaround to the above problem (no AC output), but strange they did not get both load and battery power by keeping AC on.
EDIT: See below. I found the document I was looking for.

It would seem that solar PV (which is joined on the DC side of things in the BDI) would still remain in operation, using the truck's battery as a buffer - but that on-grid feed-in is limited on the AC side of the inverter.
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cvalue13

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If during an outage the HIS can at least charge the truck from PV (at a good charge rate), that’d be something.

if so, question might be can it while still allowing thetruck to run the house - I suspect not.

but at very least it would alleviate concerns of a prolonged outage causing the truck to become useless as a vehicle bc it used all juice for the house?
 

FlasherZ

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So instead of using this massive battery as a buffer for demand, while mostly feeding PV to load (as most battery/PV systems do), they just cut the AC output from PV. Sad if true.
I found the doc I was looking for:
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/attachments/5ef673625c9abfdf1c9560f8f6462872-1-pdf.48027/

...and it looks like it may not cut off solar PV at all during failure, but it would use it to save some of the vehicle's battery.

The spec sheet appears to indicate that when in grid-tie mode, the inverter limits its output on the AC port - which seems odd, considering the inverter hardware has to be there for the off-grid operation... but that's what they say!
 

jefro

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If I were stuck with Austin Energy again, I'd use the $4.17 a month unlimited EV charging plan. You can easily consume $100 worth of electricity on a truck I'd suspect along with all your friends charging there.
 

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cvalue13

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If I were stuck with Austin Energy again, I'd use the $4.17 a month unlimited EV charging plan. You can easily consume $100 worth of electricity on a truck I'd suspect along with all your friends charging there.
it you mean the plan that lets you L2 charge at their approved charging stations, I do have that but have yet to have reason to use it (in that I don’t drive that much right now, and the nearest station is just inconvenient enough)

but it is a good plan
 
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Pjlightning

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The FCSP at this point in time cannot meet its 80 amp claimed capability. So most run it at 64 amps. Otherwise it overheats.

If you need 0-100% charge every night, get the 80 amp and hope it works or Ford fixes the problem and replaces yours. For all normal uses just get the 60 and you'll be fine.

Having said all that, I opted for the 100 amp breaker and 80 amp charger, which I expect to run at 64 amps.
Thanks for the input everyone.

I don’t think I will ever go with HIS unless the costs drop dramatically, but I guess 80amp does “future-proof” for both HIS options and future advances in charging capabilities down the road ?

I saw a great video posted a few weeks ago by
tommolog
Where he was interviewing a Ford Exec about all sorts of various Lightning topics, and Tom asked some tough questions, including the overheating FCSP issue, and the response sounded like it was just a calibration fix and Ford would have it resolved with an OTA update shortly:

 
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chirocam

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I had my FCSP installed yesterday, it’s running at 48 amps. Works perfectly, charged plenty fast enough for my needs, and a 60a circuit and install was only $970 here in FL.
 

cvalue13

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I had my FCSP installed yesterday, it’s running at 48 amps. Works perfectly, charged plenty fast enough for my needs, and a 60a circuit and install was only $970 here in FL.
I believe pricing is really only relevant if comparing similar lengths of wire runs. Wire, per foot, is the killer. Do you know yours?
 

chirocam

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I believe pricing is really only relevant if comparing similar lengths of wire runs. Wire, per foot, is the killer. Do you know yours?
Yes. My service included:

New 60a breaker, 15 feet of copper wire, conduit, cored the outer wall (mine is installed outside), mounting and setup.
 

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jefro

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the plan that lets you L2 charge at their approved charging stations
The plan has two features. One is unlimited home charging and two unlimited in service area commercial L2. The downside is you have to have meter for it at home. They reserve the right to limit power if needed for city use.

I did everything I could to get chargers installed where I work at but they stink there no matter who paid for what. I even found way to have many installed free.
 

cvalue13

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jefro

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You are correct. I read all there stuff a long time ago.
The flat rate on their PIE L2 is by far the best deal.

They will charge $30-$50 on their 360 plan switches at 10kWh. Not sure I pay that currently or if it's still active.
So not a great deal except the install and then irs.
 
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FirstF150InCasco

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The FCSP at this point in time cannot meet its 80 amp claimed capability. So most run it at 64 amps. Otherwise it overheats.

If you need 0-100% charge every night, get the 80 amp and hope it works or Ford fixes the problem and replaces yours. For all normal uses just get the 60 and you'll be fine.

Having said all that, I opted for the 100 amp breaker and 80 amp charger, which I expect to run at 64 amps.
with the “68” version I get 80 amps with no overheating. I put in a dedicated 200 Amp service. Cost $7k, but worth it.
 

ziptbm

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I'm having a similar debate, except I already have a 60Amp line installed with a Tesla Wall Connector.

My Lightning came with a FCSP, so I'm trying to decide if I just want to swap out the Tesla Wall Connect for the FSCP and settle on 48Amps of output from the existing 60Amp line. OR if I want to upgrade the circuit and wire to support 100Amps.

My installer is coming next week to at least do the EVSE upgrade on the existing line, but they will also be quoting the upgraded installation since that requires a permit in my location. Similar to the installer discussed in this thread, they're already telling me how the 100Amp line is completely unnecessary and not worth the money....

At this point I don't know if my 200Amp panel could support a 100Amp breaker or if the 1" FMC conduit installed with the ~50 foot 60Amp line could support the required wire size....but it feels like I spent so much already on this truck, why wouldn't I want to get the full power capability?

So...are y'all finding 80Amps over 48Amps of output worth it?

@Pjlightning what did you decide?
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