80 amp pro charger wiring requirements

[nanohead]

I think the definition of readily accessible is pretty clear:

In the basement is fine as long as it’s lockable.

Larger outdoor rated disconnects are available, but most include fuses or a breaker and get expensive.

If you make the hardware setting 48A, the branch circuit only needs to meet the 60A requirements…i.e., no disconnect required.

Yeah, thanks.

The disconnects are usually required for serviceability, but also for "safety" depending on the application. I've used them on hot tubs before, where the code implies its for safety, less so for serviceability.

The language in the code is not really super clear, as it doesn't imply why you need a disconnect, especially in a residential application. In a commercial one, I could understand it, but residential one is it for safety? ie, overheating scenario where you can quickly shut off power very close to the charger? I dunno,

Regardless, I think I'll install a single breaker in a box near where the charger branch circuit will exit the wall of the house into the rear of the charger itself. That should be reasonable.

I wonder if anyone has re-rated to 64 Amps.

 

[RickKeen]

I wonder if anyone has re-rated to 64 Amps.

These Square D boxes can take any of their QO series breakers up to 100 amps:

https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schne...ocphy=1020037&hvtargid=pla-315554220625&psc=1

(Breaker is sold separately - add another $50).

 

[nanohead]

These Square D boxes can take any of their QO series breakers up to 100 amps:

https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schne...ocphy=1020037&hvtargid=pla-315554220625&psc=1

(Breaker is sold separately - add another $50).

Yes thanks. Thats exactly what I'm gonna do.

 

[OrangeCrush]

Just had my FCSP installed. 2-2-2-4 Aluminum SR cable from main panel in the basement to a Square D subpanel in the garage with 100A breaker in the main panel. 100A breaker in the subpanel to FSCP. Tried to get a 3 AWG Copper for the 2ft run, but didn't find it anywhere local. Electrician just used the 2 AWG AL wire from the SR cable and it is working fine. I thought FCSP terminal accepted 3 AWG max, but looks like it accepts 2 AWG just fine. He said 2 AWG Aluminum cable meets the ampacity requirements didn't know copper would be "required".

 

[Maquis]

Just had my FCSP installed. 2-2-2-4 Aluminum SR cable from main panel in the basement to a Square D subpanel in the garage with 100A breaker in the main panel. 100A breaker in the subpanel to FSCP. Tried to get a 3 AWG Copper for the 2ft run, but didn't find it anywhere local. Electrician just used the 2 AWG AL wire from the SR cable and it is working fine. I thought FCSP terminal accepted 3 AWG max, but looks like it accepts 2 AWG just fine. He said 2 AWG Aluminum cable meets the ampacity requirements didn't know copper would be "required".

The terminals are definitely rated “copper wire only.” You can order #3 copper online for about $2/foot, 10 ft minimum. I’d order some and get it changed.

 

[OrangeCrush]

The terminals are definitely rated “copper wire only.” You can order #3 copper online for about $2/foot, 10 ft minimum. I’d order some and get it changed.

I might do that for piece of mind. However, want to know why the terminals would be rated Cu only. Actually, the terminals look like they are made of Al. Per electrician, he never heard of anything specifically requiring a specific metal, just amps, volts and temp. From what I read, The advantage Cu has vs Al is less thermal expansion. So with Al, there may be a more chance of loose connections over time. When I asked about that he said thats why you torque the terminals tight. He also pointed out that if that is a concern you are just shifting it upstream since the service wire in to the main panel is Al and the wire from main panel to sub panel is Also Al.
Any electricians in here that can explain why Ford's manual said Cu only?

 

[Maquis]

I might do that for piece of mind. However, want to know why the terminals would be rated Cu only. Actually, the terminals look like they are made of Al. Per electrician, he never heard of anything specifically requiring a specific metal, just amps, volts and temp. From what I read, The advantage Cu has vs Al is less thermal expansion. So with Al, there may be a more chance of loose connections over time. When I asked about that he said thats why you torque the terminals tight. He also pointed out that if that is a concern you are just shifting it upstream since the service wire in to the main panel is Al and the wire from main panel to sub panel is Also Al.
Any electricians in here that can explain why Ford's manual said Cu only?

This is from the installation instructions that your electrician was supposed to use. ”Copper wire only“ is a very common requirement on electrical terminations. 2 possible reasons - the lugs may be a metal that galvanically reacts with aluminum and corrodes, or has clamping geometry incompatible with the softer aluminum.

 

[Tony Burgh]

I might do that for piece of mind. However, want to know why the terminals would be rated Cu only. Actually, the terminals look like they are made of Al. Per electrician, he never heard of anything specifically requiring a specific metal, just amps, volts and temp. From what I read, The advantage Cu has vs Al is less thermal expansion. So with Al, there may be a more chance of loose connections over time. When I asked about that he said thats why you torque the terminals tight. He also pointed out that if that is a concern you are just shifting it upstream since the service wire in to the main panel is Al and the wire from main panel to sub panel is Also Al.
Any electricians in here that can explain why Ford's manual said Cu only?

Not an electrician but a PE. In most jurisdictions, as an individual you can do what you want without fear of the code police breaking in and taking action. But if the aluminum wiring connections overheat and cause fire damage, your homeowners insurance may have a different opinion than yours about payment.
But if your licensed electrician does not follow code you may have some redress. If unlicensed, you’re back to begging your homeowners.
Edit - Ford also worries about liability so figure their specification of copper as a cya.

 

[Henry Ford]

Greetings to all,

I am contemplating putting in my 80 amp Ford pro charger once it arrives.

I am currently running a 48 amp open evse with 6 gauge thhn wire.

I am wondering what gauge COPPER you guys have seen for making the Ford charger go at it's full 80 amps. I'll probably run thhn, but Romex would be okay too.

I think I have to do 1 gauge, but I want to make sure I'm not missing something. My run is about 20 feet.

Jeremy

Do some research before using Romex. It's my understanding Romex should not be used in EV charging circuits because it's temperature rating isn't high enough. I'm not an electrician.

 

[Maquis]

Do some research before using Romex. It's my understanding Romex should not be used in EV charging circuits because it's temperature rating isn't high enough. I'm not an electrician.

Romex can be used for most cases, but you’ll end up with larger size wires due to the 60C temperature limit.
However, the FCSP would require #2 Romex to operate at full capacity, so in this case, you are correct, it can’t be used due to the terminals being rated for #3 max wire size.

 

[Pioneer74]

Romex can be used for most cases, but you’ll end up with larger size wires due to the 60C temperature limit.
However, the FCSP would require #2 Romex to operate at full capacity, so in this case, you are correct, it can’t be used due to the terminals being rated for #3 max wire size.

I used #2 copper in mine. I had no choice. I couldn't find #3 near me. And I can't believe they wouldn't have thought people wouldn't have had to use an upgraded conductor on a long run.

But I wouldn't put aluminum conductors in the terminals. Ford and Siemens put a copper only requirement for a reason.

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