HOW TO DIY -- level / lower rear suspension on Ford Lightning using Belltech 25001

[csukoh78]

Install done today. Thanks to the write up. It was a HUGE help. I’m going to add a few notes that are not in the write up for those of use that need a little more guidance on the details. It took me 3 1/2 hours total. I have done suspension work before.

Add to tools- 18mm socket, 8mm socket, 18mm deep socket, 18mm box end wrench, trim peg removal tool

It’s quite a bit easier to work with the wheel liner out. Use the 8mm and trim tool. It comes out super easy.

The top nuts on the shock at 18 mm. Use the shallow socket and box end to remover those. Use the deep 18mm for the center nut.

Once you have the old shock out, ditch the ugly shock cover and stock bump stop. Retain the rubber pad that goes up top. Insert the bump stop provided with the new shocks into the rubber pad. There is also a metal tubular spacer provided with the new shocks that needs to be placed at the top of the shock under the top plate. Make sure to put that in.

Besides that it’s pretty strait forward. The hardest part was getting the truck off the ground. lol. I had to use the spare jack because I did t have one tall enough and strong enough to lift this beast. Cranking that scissor Jack is a workout!

As far as the ride and look, it’s SOOOOO much better! Every F150 I’ve had rides better with a load. This one too. It feels much more planted. Not so “boat like”. In an aggressive turn, there is more rear bias. It still under steers but way less. There is a tiny bit of visible camber. I’m going to see how tire life is like this. The kit is not only expensive but it’s a complicated install with permanent modifications. If it costs me just a few thousand premature tire miles, that’s a compromise I’m willing to make.

I’m making a reveal post later today with all the mods. This install included. All I can say is I LOVE THIS TRUCK!

i'm glad the write up was helpful, and thanks for the additional information. I did not use the spacer on top of the shock, it wasn't necessary. Why did you use it?

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[LightningBug]

To be specific, I’m talking about the one just wider than a pencil that goes on the post at the top of the shock cylinder. Not the wide one that makes the ride higher. It seems to make a more secure fitment inside the top collar.

 

[csukoh78]

To be specific, I’m talking about the one just wider than a pencil that goes on the post at the top of the shock cylinder. Not the wide one that makes the ride higher. It seems to make a more secure fitment inside the top collar.

Yeah that's the one I'm referring to. I guess I just didn't need it and I haven't heard any sounds are clicks or other instability without it. I thought it was just an extension collar

 

[jplaplante]

Ok - finally reporting on my experience. I had my local shop do this a few days ago and I have been testing it out since. Major findings:

• Shop labor was 3.5 hours. About what I expected but I was surprised how much labor rates have risen in the last few years (used to be only lawyers could charge that rate!)
• IMO, the ride is now decidedly more truck-like. I actually preferred the stock ride feel considering how bad the pavement is in my city - I really notice how bad the pavement is now.
• Pictures don't do it justice- the look is vastly improved
• I now fit into my 6'5" parking garage at work without worry
• The truck looks really "long" now - probably due to the running boards. It's surprising how much difference this drop makes
• My ideal look would probably be to drop the rear 2 inches (not 3) and raise the front 1 inch, but that would not have fixed my parking garage problem
• There's still a small rake to the truck - but a good one instead of the ridiculous stock rake.

In all I am super happy.

Before:

After:

 

[csukoh78]

Glad you did it and glad you enjoyed it! Based on what you said though, it's not clear… Although the suspension (struts) are shortened 3 inches, the net result drop in the rear of the truck is *2 inches.* This is because of the geometry of the suspension. 2 inches of actual drop (3 inch suspension shortening) is a perfect level on this truck.

if you did this rear level and then raised the front, it would look like a Carolina squat and in my opinion, stupid. Also illegal

 

[doolin64]

What's the part for this Belltech kit?

 

[csukoh78]

What's the part for this Belltech kit?

Not a kit. It is part number 25001. Take a look at my posts and you'll see a write up on how to do it. I am all smiles, silly rake is a major problem with his truck.

 

[jplaplante]

Glad you did it and glad you enjoyed it! Based on what you said though, it's not clear… Although the suspension (struts) are shortened 3 inches, the net result drop in the rear of the truck is *2 inches.* This is because of the geometry of the suspension. 2 inches of actual drop (3 inch suspension shortening) is a perfect level on this truck.

if you did this rear level and then raised the front, it would look like a Carolina squat and in my opinion, stupid. Also illegal

Yeah - I would not want the squat for sure. I agree that the rear is now about 2 inches lower. I was looking to reduce the overall height of the truck by at least 1 inch, which I achieved. I think the truck might look better if the overall height was a little taller than my currently modified setup - about 1 inch more both rear and front but not changing the current rake of the profile. Again, would not work for my parking garage situation

 

[csukoh78]

Update posted (in original post) Sep 22

 

[jplaplante]

2) The negative camber is unacceptable. Mine was 2.5-3 degrees after leveling. There's no way to adjust it on Lightnings without frame modification. You have to remember that this suspension travels on an arc. The more the suspension is shortened, the more the control arm rotates around its axis and forward in the wheel well, and creates negative camber. It rode worse, was louder, and my efficiency took a hit by not riding on the tires square.

This. I've been surpised by the negative camber and tried to photograph it. I am likely to add the spacers as suggested by the OP and will report back afterwards:

Photo of negative camber after 3" strut shortening:

 

[csukoh78]

Pretty sure Ford did this to stabilize loads around corners. The control arm is set up to create more camber the more it's compressed. 1" drop keeps camber in check and looks/drives much better.

ICON has a camber Kit shipping in November but requires permanent frame modification. I'd be willing to do that ifdrop it all the away around with the full kit.

 

[csukoh78]

This. I've been surpised by the negative camber and tried to photograph it. I am likely to add the spacers as suggested by the OP and will report back afterwards:

Photo of negative camber after 3" strut shortening:

Another good thing about the 1" drop/1.5" strut shortening is that now the rear axles are perfectly straight, minimizing any possible wear and tear on the CV axles. Stock, they are cant down several degrees.

 

[jplaplante]

###UPDATE### 22Sep - After driving for about 1500 miles, I can no longer recommend doing the full 3" suspension shortening/2" rear drop level, but instead you guys should do a 1.5" suspension shortening ( 1" drop. ) You can do this by adding two of the 5/8" steel rings to each strut tower, included with the shocks. I did this change today, and glad I did.

Clarification - my instructions say that using two 5/8 (16mm) steel rings shortens the strut either 1 inch or 1.5 inches depending on what you are comparing to (MY 04-08 or MY 09-12 F150). Did you measure, or were you just looking at the charts that come with the Belltech 25001?

Also, did you think about or try other combinations (e.g. one 16mm + one 8mm ring)?

 

[csukoh78]

Clarification - my instructions say that using two 5/8 (16mm) steel rings shortens the strut either 1 inch or 1.5 inches depending on what you are comparing to (MY 04-08 or MY 09-12 F150). Did you measure, or were you just looking at the charts that come with the Belltech 25001?

Also, did you think about or try other combinations (e.g. one 16mm + one 8mm ring)?

The chart says that each ring is 5/8" long. I confirmed that with measurements. No rings at all = 3" drop. So adding the rings (total of 1.5") reduces the strut shortening to 1.5", resulting in a 1" exactly drop at the wheel.

 

[Pioneer74]

The chart says that each ring is 5/8" long. I confirmed that with measurements. No rings at all = 3" drop. So adding the rings (total of 1.5") reduces the strut shortening to 1.5", resulting in a 1" exactly drop at the wheel.

So, using one ring would give a 2" drop? Would that require the camber kit?

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