csukoh78
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #31
i'm glad the write up was helpful, and thanks for the additional information. I did not use the spacer on top of the shock, it wasn't necessary. Why did you use it?Install done today. Thanks to the write up. It was a HUGE help. I’m going to add a few notes that are not in the write up for those of use that need a little more guidance on the details. It took me 3 1/2 hours total. I have done suspension work before.
Add to tools- 18mm socket, 8mm socket, 18mm deep socket, 18mm box end wrench, trim peg removal tool
It’s quite a bit easier to work with the wheel liner out. Use the 8mm and trim tool. It comes out super easy.
The top nuts on the shock at 18 mm. Use the shallow socket and box end to remover those. Use the deep 18mm for the center nut.
Once you have the old shock out, ditch the ugly shock cover and stock bump stop. Retain the rubber pad that goes up top. Insert the bump stop provided with the new shocks into the rubber pad. There is also a metal tubular spacer provided with the new shocks that needs to be placed at the top of the shock under the top plate. Make sure to put that in.
Besides that it’s pretty strait forward. The hardest part was getting the truck off the ground. lol. I had to use the spare jack because I did t have one tall enough and strong enough to lift this beast. Cranking that scissor Jack is a workout!
As far as the ride and look, it’s SOOOOO much better! Every F150 I’ve had rides better with a load. This one too. It feels much more planted. Not so “boat like”. In an aggressive turn, there is more rear bias. It still under steers but way less. There is a tiny bit of visible camber. I’m going to see how tire life is like this. The kit is not only expensive but it’s a complicated install with permanent modifications. If it costs me just a few thousand premature tire miles, that’s a compromise I’m willing to make.
I’m making a reveal post later today with all the mods. This install included. All I can say is I LOVE THIS TRUCK!
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