7.2KW generator not able to handle a circular saw

[Twilighthan]

Did you try changing the settings on the unit? The ramp time, current curve, etc are all programmable. Maybe ramp it by 1 second instead of 2? Mine has been working flawlessly.

Ok. I am an idiot. I didn't know you can program it, but I got it right before I had to leave town, so I only had a few minutes with it. When I get back, I'll look at it. Thank you so much for the followup. Ever grateful!

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[PowerBoostXLT]

Sounds like a job for an “120v AC soft starter”. One would think Ford would have thought so before advertising. I wonder if they used a 13A saw during the marketing.

 

[Sentinel1201]

Since my dealer was no help, I figured I'd experiment myself. I bought this soft starter, and low and behold, it fixed my problem! They offer a few models, but I figured the 20 amp 120V would fit my needs since the 240V model was sold out. You can even program it to ramp anywhere from half a second to 7 seconds. Plus it's made in the USA, which is a big plus to me.

I purchased this unit - the more expensive 20 amp version - and returned it. It didn't say in the description but the card you are holding that was in the package said it will not work with air conditioners. Which was the whole point of my purchase so I returned it.

I found that turning the cold setting of my Dometic 15k BTU to 75% and not 100% helps keep its power draw in check. My PB seems to power my trailer with its AC, microwave, Keurig, lights, house battery trickle charger, motorcycle battery trickle charger etc. with no problems. I also draw on the other bank at the same time to run motorcycle tire warmers and have no issues so far.

 

[BLoflin]

I purchased this unit - the more expensive 20 amp version - and returned it. It didn't say in the description but the card you are holding that was in the package said it will not work with air conditioners. Which was the whole point of my purchase so I returned it.

I found that turning the cold setting of my Dometic 15k BTU to 75% and not 100% helps keep its power draw in check. My PB seems to power my trailer with its AC, microwave, Keurig, lights, house battery trickle charger, motorcycle battery trickle charger etc. with no problems. I also draw on the other bank at the same time to run motorcycle tire warmers and have no issues so far.

On Amazon it DOES say (perhaps they just added it due to returns/complaint) specifically it will NOT work with A/C:

"-This product model is not compatible with air compressors, A/C units, or dehumidifiers."

However, there are plenty of softstart RV air-conditioner capable devices (Amazon pulls up 20+). They are more expensive ($300+) but are used by many, many RVers. If you ever want to go that route.

 

[Sentinel1201]

On Amazon it DOES say (perhaps they just added it due to returns/complaint) specifically it will NOT work with A/C:

"-This product model is not compatible with air compressors, A/C units, or dehumidifiers."

However, there are plenty of softstart RV air-conditioner capable devices (Amazon pulls up 20+). They are more expensive ($300+) but are used by many, many RVers. If you ever want to go that route.

That could be it, I am glad they added it. Yes, those softstart systems came up on my search, they need to be wired into the AC unit itself and not the outlet.

I haven't had the AC trip again once I started turning down the temp demand sensor to 75%. If I find that it trips in future I will re-investigate a soft start system, hoping I dodged that bullet.

 

[Snakebitten]

I don't believe that the Pro Power 72KW system is underperforming. It MAY be set a little conservative to protect itself, but that might be a good thing in the long run.

Modern life has the average consumer pretty spoiled with expectations when we plug stuff in to a power receptacle.

I suspect that I will need to know more about the products I buy now if my intention is to use it in the middle of nowhere with nothing more than my magical Powerboost at my disposal?

 

[JerseyBoy]

I had the same problem with the bed 120V outlets so I tried the interior outlets. I was using a Dewalt Miter saw rated at 15 amps. It momentarily started and then power was cut off from the 120V bed outlets. I noticed that the 20 amp rating in the bed was associated with two outlets so I guessed each outlet might be limited to 10 amps. I then plugged the saw into one of the interior outlets. It was a single outlet with a 20 amp rating. Guess what, it worked like a charm. This is something I intend to address with the Ford dealer.

 

[Mash150]

I had the same problem with the bed 120V outlets so I tried the interior outlets. I was using a Dewalt Miter saw rated at 15 amps. It momentarily started and then power was cut off from the 120V bed outlets. I noticed that the 20 amp rating in the bed was associated with two outlets so I guessed each outlet might be limited to 10 amps. I then plugged the saw into one of the interior outlets. It was a single outlet with a 20 amp rating. Guess what, it worked like a charm. This is something I intend to address with the Ford dealer.

Since my truck only has the 2.4 Kw inverter, it has both of the interior 120 v plugs with the 20 amp rating. My thinking is that these plugs only use the power inverter under the passenger rear back seat, which would be rated at 400 watts. I can’t see these plugs running a saw.

Could anyone elaborate on this to see if it’s possible to run something with a 1000 watt draw on these plugs.

 

[Twilighthan]

Since my truck only has the 2.4 Kw inverter, it has both of the interior 120 v plugs with the 20 amp rating. My thinking is that these plugs only use the power inverter under the passenger rear back seat, which would be rated at 400 watts. I can’t see these plugs running a saw.

Could anyone elaborate on this to see if it’s possible to run something with a 1000 watt draw on these plugs.

technically,120v x 10amps can handle 1200 watts, but it would make more sense if it was 20amp total in the system . Not 10 amp each plug.

It’s not the constant current the appliance draws that’s usually the issue. It’s the spike at the initial turning on of the device that can spike up to 6000 watts which would be way more than what the 120v x 20amp inverter can handle, which is 2400. It may be able to handle up to 3200 but for a second unless it drops back to 2400 or below.

 

[Mash150]

technically,120v x 10amps can handle 1200 watts, but it would make more sense if it was 20amp total in the system . Not 10 amp each plug.

It’s not the constant current the appliance draws that’s usually the issue. It’s the spike at the initial turning on of the device that can spike up to 6000 watts which would be way more than what the 120v x 20amp inverter can handle, which is 2400. It may be able to handle up to 3200 but for a second unless it drops back to 2400 or below.

Thanks that is understood and you provided a very clear explanation. It seems I did not clearly pose my question. My in cab outlets show 20 amp on the plug covers. Are these outlets capable of running 2400 watts single outlet running or 400 watts as provided by the power inverter box under the rear seat, similar to what I had in the 18 lariat.

 

[Hullguy]

Thanks that is understood and you provided a very clear explanation. It seems I did not clearly pose my question. My in cab outlets show 20 amp on the plug covers. Are these outlets capable of running 2400 watts single outlet running or 400 watts as provided by the power inverter box under the rear seat, similar to what I had in the 18 lariat.

The way I saw on the videos it stated that the rating on the interior plugs goes from 400 watts to 2400 when the generator is turned on

 

[Twilighthan]

Thanks that is understood and you provided a very clear explanation. It seems I did not clearly pose my question. My in cab outlets show 20 amp on the plug covers. Are these outlets capable of running 2400 watts single outlet running or 400 watts as provided by the power inverter box under the rear seat, similar to what I had in the 18 lariat.

So it seems like the entire system is 2.4kw so even if one plug says 20amps it doesn’t mean both outlets can run 20 amps at the same time. Both plugs in the bed should run two devices up to 20amps total.

You may have a separate smaller inverter under your seat. The outlets in my vehicle can only do 400 watts with the small inverter under the seat and it says 400 watts on the cap. Now. I actually can’t pull 400 watts even though it’s rated for that because I have phones charging and such which takes away from the power. And even when I didn’t, the power fluctuates significantly and it’s not safe for sensitive electronics so I don’t use it unless absolutely necessary. I’m disappointed at the poor power quality of the smaller inverter but not surprised. I don’t want the 7.2kw because the 36 gallon tank is more valuable to me. I carry around my battery generator instead.

So you can pull 2400 watts out of the truck bed most likely but there are limitations with the inverter and initial surge. If two appliances are hooked up, the inverter could freak out even if around 2400 watts. Depends on the equipment and spikes if you are going off and on like a circular saw.

 

[Box Cat]

If you are willing to do your own wiring, this 120V 15A affordable ($10) soft start https://a.co/d/eK7snRu works great with inductive loads like electric motors in circular and table saws.

 

[TaxmanHog]

If you are willing to do your own wiring, this 120V 15A affordable ($10) soft start https://a.co/d/eK7snRu works great with inductive loads like electric motors in circular and table saws.

Take note of the AGE of threads, some of them related to when the Lightning vehicle category was a sub forum on the original ICE forum, many of these folks are not active in the LIGHTNING forum.

 

[Box Cat]

Just thinking that as I search and read old posts, others may do as well. Therefore adding (hopefully) useful information.

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