80 amp pro charger wiring requirements

[Jeremybj]

Greetings to all,

I am contemplating putting in my 80 amp Ford pro charger once it arrives.

I am currently running a 48 amp open evse with 6 gauge thhn wire.

I am wondering what gauge COPPER you guys have seen for making the Ford charger go at it's full 80 amps. I'll probably run thhn, but Romex would be okay too.

I think I have to do 1 gauge, but I want to make sure I'm not missing something. My run is about 20 feet.

Jeremy

Sponsored

 

[Pioneer74]

3 gauge THHN for the power conductors and 6 gauge for the ground is up to code. I ran 2 gauge wire in 1 inch conduit. You will be fine with 3 gauge in a 20 foot run.

If you use any type of cable, you have to use 1 gauge.

 

[F150LER]

2 gauge just barely fit if you box mount it, should def run conduit.

 

[nanohead]

I have about 80 feet to get to where I'll mount the charge station, so will use AL 1-1-1-3 AWG service entrance cable to a small junction box and will step to 3 AWG copper THHN as the charge station lugs can only handle that. Most of AL run will be in the basement as well, and the charge station will be mounted outside on the side of the house

Copper is so bizarrely expensive now, that using the AL wire is less than half the cost. I also find it somewhat easier to work with, or I at least tell myself that because its half the cost !!

 

[kwalt21]

I have about 80 feet to get to where I'll mount the charge station, so will use AL 1-1-1-3 AWG service entrance cable to a small junction box and will step to 3 AWG copper THHN as the charge station lugs can only handle that. Most of AL run will be in the basement as well, and the charge station will be mounted outside on the side of the house

Copper is so bizarrely expensive now, that using the AL wire is less than half the cost. I also find it somewhat easier to work with, or I at least tell myself that because its half the cost !!

Ford technically states NOT to use Aluminum wire. Although it's not going to hurt.. don't ask me how I know...

 

[nanohead]

Ford technically states NOT to use Aluminum wire. Although it's not going to hurt.. don't ask me how I know...

Hilarious!!

Actually, the install manual only says to connect the charge station with copper, it says nothing about not using aluminum. It only says to use copper for the AC connections, presumably because the size of the lugs in the charge station can only handle the diameter of 3 AWG Cu.

I have a 100 year old stone house and I've used AL service cable to power all the additions we've done over the years. Its huge and stiff, but boy is it cheaper than copper!

 

[Nick503955]

From the Ford Charge Station Pro manual:
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/attachments/fordchargestationproig-compressed-pdf.49036/

 

[kwalt21]

Hilarious!!

Actually, the install manual only says to connect the charge station with copper, it says nothing about not using aluminum. It only says to use copper for the AC connections, presumably because the size of the lugs in the charge station can only handle the diameter of 3 AWG Cu.

I have a 100 year old stone house and I've used AL service cable to power all the additions we've done over the years. Its huge and stiff, but boy is it cheaper than copper!

It technically states to use 3 AWG copper ONLY. I guess it can be interpreted either way, copper only OR 3 AWG wire only haha.

 

[Maquis]

Copper-only is because of the terminations. If no aluminum wire was allowed anywhere in the circuit serving the EVSE, most people would need to change their service entrance wiring!

 

[Amps]

The junction box is a great opportunity to install a disconnect if you're doing a long run.

 

[nanohead]

From the Ford Charge Station Pro manual:
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/attachments/fordchargestationproig-compressed-pdf.49036/

As Maquis says, this is for the connections. Its why the left most column is labeled "Terminal" It has nothing to do with how you get power to that connection. It dictates termination wire size into the connector lug, that's why it specifies torque at the Terminal connector too. As long as you use wire size that supports the appropriate ampacity that the electrical device requires, the type of wire is less important in 90% of cases in residential wiring. Its why I'm using 1 AWG AL, and then will use a commercial junction box to connect the Copper 3 AWG to the 1 AWG AL. Happens all the time.... 3 AWG Cu supports the same ampacity "range" that 1 AWG AL does for this particular application

Copper-only is because of the terminations. If no aluminum wire was allowed anywhere in the circuit serving the EVSE, most people would need to change their service entrance wiring!

Exactly. My house has AL running to the pole, and from the service entrance to the main panel. And then has several AL trunk cables running to various additions and the pool. And then its copper from those sub panels to the actual end devices/receptacles. I used Copper for the Mach E charger because it was only 6 AWG and it was a short distance and the cost was not horrific.

The cost of copper is bonkers. Even though I have a decent amount of copper wire laying around, the big stuff is insanely expensive and Aluminum for large current carrying conductors is a great alternative.

 

[Nick503955]

The cost of copper is bonkers. Even though I have a decent amount of copper wire laying around, the big stuff is insanely expensive and Aluminum for large current carrying conductors is a great alternative.

Totally agree. I shared the image from the instructions for reference.

 

[Pioneer74]

The junction box is a great opportunity to install a disconnect if you're doing a long run.

Not only a great opportunity, but it's required depending on where your main panel is.

 Safety Switch: For EVSE rated at more than 60 amps or more than 150 volts to ground, a means of disconnect must be installed in a readily accessible location and within sight of the electric charging connector. If the disconnect is not in sight of the equipment, it must be capable of being locked in the open position (CEC §625.23). Depending on local code requirements, a fused switch may be needed if the switch is not readily accessible, or is not visible from the main panel.

 

[nanohead]

Not only a great opportunity, but it's required depending on where your main panel is.

 Safety Switch: For EVSE rated at more than 60 amps or more than 150 volts to ground, a means of disconnect must be installed in a readily accessible location and within sight of the electric charging connector. If the disconnect is not in sight of the equipment, it must be capable of being locked in the open position (CEC §625.23). Depending on local code requirements, a fused switch may be needed if the switch is not readily accessible, or is not visible from the main panel.

I'm probably going to de-rate the Charge Station Pro to either 48 or 64 Amps because of my house main capacity (150 amps) and I also have another EV charger in the garage for the Mach E, plus all the other equipment that draws power.

The disconnect makes sense, but not sure what "readily accessible location" means. Was on mikeholt.com and most of those guys don't exactly know what that means either. Curious, how you interpret that. I really don't want to have a disconnect on the side of my house where the driveway is. I can have it in the basement near where the feed will emerge from the house to the back of the charge station, but it will be behind a Bilco door.

Also, tough to find a disconnect beyond 60 amps that is packaged in an outdoor enclosure.

 

[Maquis]

I'm probably going to de-rate the Charge Station Pro to either 48 or 64 Amps because of my house main capacity (150 amps) and I also have another EV charger in the garage for the Mach E, plus all the other equipment that draws power.

The disconnect makes sense, but not sure what "readily accessible location" means. Was on mikeholt.com and most of those guys don't exactly know what that means either. Curious, how you interpret that. I really don't want to have a disconnect on the side of my house where the driveway is. I can have it in the basement near where the feed will emerge from the house to the back of the charge station, but it will be behind a Bilco door.

Also, tough to find a disconnect beyond 60 amps that is packaged in an outdoor enclosure.

I think the definition of readily accessible is pretty clear:

In the basement is fine as long as it’s lockable.

Larger outdoor rated disconnects are available, but most include fuses or a breaker and get expensive.

If you make the hardware setting 48A, the branch circuit only needs to meet the 60A requirements…i.e., no disconnect required.

Sponsored