Connectivity Dead - 2024 F-150 Lightning Lariat

[rugedraw]

Thanks for that tip, I was considering adding a battery disconnect switch to the 12v battery that would make this very easy also, but if the plug to the actual modem is that easily accessible, I'll probably go that route.

It's frustrating how non-fault tolerant the systems are in the vehicle.

A FORScan adapter will allow you to reboot the TCU and another other module without having to unplug anything.

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[ChippewaBarr]

correct. I pull back the trim piece behind the rear passenger seat and pull the plug directly. It is significantly faster than pulling fuse 32 (which doesn’t really work by the way) or pulling off the 12v in the frunk. It also requires no tool (now that I leave the holding clip off). I am really surprised others don’t report this as much. Most Ford pass issues, and HIS issues all point to the truck modem yet everyone blames the app or other equipment. I have proved all those by checking the truck connectivity anytime something else doesn’t seem to be working right.

Is there a proven reason why pulling Fuse 32 "doesn't really work"?
As far as I'm aware it's killing power to the TCU so wouldn't it be the same as unplugging it?

Genuinely interested since there's so much electrical work going on in the background of these vehicles.

Pulling the fuse has worked for me when connectivity loss happens so that's what I've been doing, but I'm open to more robust solutions.

 

[TaxmanHog]

I've never had issues with any control modules on my truck, so no first hand experiences.

It is possible that either fuse might solve the problem, no doubting those who had success with fuse 32, let's assume these two devices are in communication with each other, causing the chain of com's to stop, try pulling fuse 8 the next to see if the same positive result is achieved.

32 is listed as Radio / Enhanced central gateway
8 is listed as the power to the Telematics CM & Power tailgate CM

 

[tearitupsports]

@PrimeRisk @TaxmanHog . Do either of you use Apple Carplay normally? How about the Alexa built into the truck. I have suspicion that either of these or both are causing some of the modem issues. Just curios to see with other people that have had issues and those that have had no issues.
For reference I have had the modem crash while playing a song on the Amazon music app (truck one, not phone) and having a teams notification come in on my phone (carplay).

 

[TaxmanHog]

@PrimeRisk @TaxmanHog . Do either of you use Apple Carplay normally? How about the Alexa built into the truck. I have suspicion that either of these or both are causing some of the modem issues. Just curios to see with other people that have had issues and those that have had no issues.
For reference I have had the modem crash while playing a song on the Amazon music app (truck one, not phone) and having a teams notification come in on my phone (carplay).

I'm an Android Auto user, I do not use Alexa or Amazon music.

I have the Sirius app on my phone which does port the the Sync screen via android auto but I never use it, I use the Sirius standard Sync app.

 

[tearitupsports]

I've never had issues with any control modules on my truck, so no first hand experiences.

It is possible that either fuse might solve the problem, no doubting those who had success with fuse 32, let's assume these two devices are in communication with each other, causing the chain of com's to stop, try pulling fuse 8 the next to see if the same positive result is achieved.

32 is listed as Radio / Enhanced central gateway
8 is listed as the power to the Telematics CM & Power tailgate CM

I don't seem to have a fuse 8. The Fuse box goes 4,5,7,9,11, etc.

 

[tearitupsports]

Is there a proven reason why pulling Fuse 32 "doesn't really work"?
As far as I'm aware it's killing power to the TCU so wouldn't it be the same as unplugging it?

Genuinely interested since there's so much electrical work going on in the background of these vehicles.

Pulling the fuse has worked for me when connectivity loss happens so that's what I've been doing, but I'm open to more robust solutions.

So I had my modem locked up all day, and just went and pulled fuse 32, which reset both my radio and my modem (it seems). I will say my comment on pulling fuse 32 doesn't work goes back to before I had fixed my battery voltage sensor, which I do think contributed to some of the issues. I will see how it works post reset using the fuse rather than the modem cable directly.

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