DIY: Installing ACC (Adaptive Cruise Control) and LKA (Lane Keep Alert) to 2022 F-150 Lightning XLT

[cowboys1870]

So a 2022 XLT SR does not require the addition of any wires other than the new harness?

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[ZSC100]

So a 2022 XLT SR does not require the addition of any wires other than the new harness?

Depends, being the first trucks made, we've seen a few variations. Some have only had to replace the bumper harness, My 2022 XLT SR EG311A was missing the wiring from the passenger kick panel to the bumper.

 

[Azgunguy]

Parts list for ACC on bare bones lightning (missing wires to the IPMA):

Terminals that go to IPMA connector (you can buy the terminal ends and crimp them yourself if you like):
PN: DU2Z-14474-CA
Terminal DU2Z-14474-CA | TascaParts.com

Screws to mount the CCM:
PN: W720714-S450B
2021-2023 Ford Fog Lamp Assembly Bolt -W720714-S450B | TascaParts.com

Pigtail that plugs into CCM (has 7 wires. The 4 you need are on the side closest to the clip, the other 3 must be removed and the holes waterproofed. I filled them with silicone)
PN: 4U2Z-14S411-LC
Wire Assembly 4U2Z-14S411-LC | OEM Parts Online

Cruise control module:
PN: ML3Z-9E731-G
2021-2023 Ford Sensor ML3Z-9E731-G | OEM Parts Online

20g TXL Wire From 4R Customs Wiring:
I ordered 20’ of:
Grey
Green-White Stripe
Brown-Blue Stripe
Grey-Blue Stripe

I’d also recommend crimp connectors, shrink tube, and fabric tape to give it an OEM look.
I twisted the wires in my drill, wrapped the wire in fabric tape, and ran them along the drivers side under the hood, zip tying it to the OEM wiring. I mounted the CCM to the bumper, remounted the bumper and routed my wiring to the CCM and made my connections there. To get through the firewall I punched a hole in the main grommet that feeds the existing wiring. BE CAREFUL. You could definitely damage the wiring if you’re too aggressive when punching the hole, I used a pocket knife. I used a coat hanger from the inside and some electrical tape to feed the wire through the firewall. Inside I routed the wire up to the IPMA connector and wired the terminals to the wire brought in then plugged them into the IPMA connector. You need to remove the white cover on the front of the IPMA to feed the terminals into the back of the connector. Now the forscan fun can begin. I’m sure I missed some things, and this is my experience and mine alone. Your mileage may vary.

 

[rio]

Thanks again @Azgunguy and everyone else who has contributed to this knowledge!

I'm about to order parts and have a few questions:

1) What's the best way to join the pigtails coming out of the CCM to the wires going to the IPMA? Is soldering and covering with shrink tubing the right way to do it, or is there some sort of butt splicer that I should use instead? (I plan to do my own crimping for the IPMA pins so I don't need the "terminal" wires from Tasca).

2) Is the removal of the bumper a 2-person job? I've managed to get the frunk tub out and in by myself (barely - I'm a small guy), but just want to know if I need to have a helper for any of the other steps.

3) @Azgunguy did you happen to take any pictures of your firewall grommet with the new wires going through it?

Also - is there anyone in or around Connecticut with a Pro interested in meeting up to do this and other mods? I'm planning to do this the week of 3/11 and would like to tackle heated steering wheel sometime in the future. Hit me up!

 

[Azgunguy]

Thanks again @Azgunguy and everyone else who has contributed to this knowledge!

I'm about to order parts and have a few questions:

1) What's the best way to join the pigtails coming out of the CCM to the wires going to the IPMA? Is soldering and covering with shrink tubing the right way to do it, or is there some sort of butt splicer that I should use instead? (I plan to do my own crimping for the IPMA pins so I don't need the "terminal" wires from Tasca).

2) Is the removal of the bumper a 2-person job? I've managed to get the frunk tub out and in by myself (barely - I'm a small guy), but just want to know if I need to have a helper for any of the other steps.

3) @Azgunguy did you happen to take any pictures of your firewall grommet with the new wires going through it?

Also - is there anyone in or around Connecticut with a Pro interested in meeting up to do this and other mods? I'm planning to do this the week of 3/11 and would like to tackle heated steering wheel sometime in the future. Hit me up!

I used crimp connectors (non insulated 20g butt connectors) with waterproof heat shrink. I just crimped them, gave them a tug, then hit the shrink tube with my torch until it was tight and the shmoo oozed out. You can buy waterproof insulated crimp connectors also or even ones with solder in them that melt when you heat it up.

The removal of the bumper is a 1 person job. There’s a large connector you have to disconnect, and the female side is wired to the bumper and the bottom of the connector is attached to the frame so you’ll need a trim tool to pop that off, also there’s another connector for the shutters that needs to be disconnected before taking the bumper off. You’ll see both connectors, they’re not hidden. You can slide the bumper away from vehicle and set it down on a moving blanket or a couple of towels. It’s not all that heavy. Maybe 75lbs. It’s pretty easy.

I’ll take a pic of the grommet hole in a bit and post it here.

 

[Azgunguy]

Thanks again @Azgunguy and everyone else who has contributed to this knowledge!

I'm about to order parts and have a few questions:

1) What's the best way to join the pigtails coming out of the CCM to the wires going to the IPMA? Is soldering and covering with shrink tubing the right way to do it, or is there some sort of butt splicer that I should use instead? (I plan to do my own crimping for the IPMA pins so I don't need the "terminal" wires from Tasca).

2) Is the removal of the bumper a 2-person job? I've managed to get the frunk tub out and in by myself (barely - I'm a small guy), but just want to know if I need to have a helper for any of the other steps.

3) @Azgunguy did you happen to take any pictures of your firewall grommet with the new wires going through it?

Also - is there anyone in or around Connecticut with a Pro interested in meeting up to do this and other mods? I'm planning to do this the week of 3/11 and would like to tackle heated steering wheel sometime in the future. Hit me up!

Here’s a photo of the grommet. The arrow points to the CCM wires. The red wire is power for my 2 way radio.

 

[rio]

Awesome, thanks!

 

[rio]

Another quick silly question: With the front end disassembled (bumper off), does anyone know if the truck can be put in Drive? I ask because I need to pull the truck halfway out of my garage in order to have room to work, but would like to be able to bring it back in fully if I'm halfway through the job and want to close down for the night. I wonder if any of the plugs that get disconnected disable the truck from getting into drive mode.

 

[ZSC100]

Another quick silly question: With the front end disassembled (bumper off), does anyone know if the truck can be put in Drive? I ask because I need to pull the truck halfway out of my garage in order to have room to work, but would like to be able to bring it back in fully if I'm halfway through the job and want to close down for the night. I wonder if any of the plugs that get disconnected disable the truck from getting into drive mode.

Will be fine, but the dash will bitch a fit

 

[rio]

Will be fine, but the dash will bitch a fit

Haha, I figured as much. Thanks!

 

[Pmoke]

I’ve got a couple questions before I dive in any further.

I have the 4 wires needed coming out of the IPMA, but I can’t for the life of me tell if I have them at the passenger kick panel connector. When looking at the connector from this angle, are these the wires coming from the IPMA or going to the bumper?

If I don’t have the wiring already at the front bumper, it almost seems easier to go directly to the IPMA and skip the other connectors, no? The connector under the passenger side looks like a PITA to get to. Is there any reason not to just remove the and replace the 4 pins in the IPMA connector?

 

[rio]

I would imagine going straight to the IPMA should work just fine. You could just splice into the existing wires rather than removing and replacing the pins.

 

[ZSC100]

I’ve got a couple questions before I dive in any further.

I have the 4 wires needed coming out of the IPMA, but I can’t for the life of me tell if I have them at the passenger kick panel connector. When looking at the connector from this angle, are these the wires coming from the IPMA or going to the bumper.

If I don’t have the wiring already at the front bumper, it almost seems easier to go directly to the IPMA and skip the other connectors, no? The connector under the passenger side looks like a PITA to get to. Is there any reason not to just remove the and replace the 4 pins in the IPMA connector?

All of those wires going down go to the IMPA. Be careful unplugging that connector latch. You need three hands to do it . Here is mine after I pulled the 4 pins out.

Left them factory and stuck them right into WAGO splices.

Yes, it may be easier to go straight from the IMPA, but if you are a stickler about leaving your truck factory to the highest degree possible, then use as much of the factory wiring as possible.

 

[Pmoke]

Ahh that’s what I was afraid of. I might try to get behind that connector with a borescope to see if I’ve got what I need without breaking anything.

 

[ZSC100]

Ahh that’s what I was afraid of. I might try to get behind that connector with a borescope to see if I’ve got what I need without breaking anything.

To the point of using a borescope, you might as well just unmate that connector and look at the pin locations in the one heading up from the bottom, you will be able to see easily if the male pins exist or not in the right spots. The front bumper side of C265 is the male side.

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