ECU module programming guide using FDRS

[Fordphanatic]

If you purchased the recommended conditioner from Amazon. I found that I had to turn it off and on by hitting the stop start button to get it to charge again. You can tell it is charging by the solid orange light and your voltage should shoot up.

The charger wasnt the problem. The long hold down bolt was a weak ground spot for me. My battery was recently changed at the dealership and when they changed it they apparently put anti seaze on the threads which was causing me to get a weak ground. Thanks to @Bob_Mac he figured it out and Now Im back to 12.6 volts. Scary for a minute

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[JEB]

The charger wasnt the problem. The long hold down bolt was a weak ground spot for me. My battery was recently changed at the dealership and when they changed it they apparently put anti seaze on the threads which was causing me to get a weak ground. Thanks to @Bob_Mac he figured it out and Now Im back to 12.6 volts. Scary for a minute

Anti-seize is non-conductive. So, that post is useless as a ground now. Finding a good ground in these trucks is a pain in the ass. Plastic everywhere. Sounds like @Bob_Mac saved your kiester.

 

[JScaro]

Best way to connect the charger I found. That long hold down bolt SUCKS. I tried it and got blistering hot - bad ground.

 

[iceman77]

Best way to connect the charger I found. That long hold down bolt SUCKS. I tried it and got blistering hot - bad ground.

I’m going to”steal” your picture and add it to the guide in the beginning of this thread

 

[Fordphanatic]

Is there anything special amount of time I need to wait once it tells me to turn the Ignition off for the IPMA module software update

 

[Fordphanatic]

My ignition is off and doors open

 

[20ecoboost21]

I'm using the VX Nano tried updating the CCM and now it's purple. Is there anyway to recover it using the Nano? I have a mongoose cable ordered just in case.

 

[JEB]

My ignition is off and doors open

If you want to be certain, shut your doors and walk away and leave the fob out of range. Return in about 10 minutes without the fob and look through the window at the LED halo around the rear seat USB ports. If it’s out, the truck is as dead as it will ever get. If not, wait longer.

 

[Snakebitten]

I'm using the VX Nano tried updating the CCM and now it's purple. Is there anyway to recover it using the Nano? I have a mongoose cable ordered just in case.

You have joined an exclusive club of CCM owners. I might be the founding member, but I can't prove it. I too am about 48 hours from delegating a CCM rescue attempt to the Mongoose. Hope it goes well for us.

 

[Jesse-Infotainment]

You have joined an exclusive club of CCM owners. I might be the founding member, but I can't prove it. I too am about 48 hours from delegating a CCM rescue attempt to the Mongoose. Hope it goes well for us.

I think the nano is the issue on these modules. These modules are on a canbus the ipma creates.

The modules that were purple were fixed simply running the software update at the dealer. Nothing more than that . That tells me it’s a comm issue

 

[Snakebitten]

^^^ information as calming as a horse tranquilizer. Thanks. No panic here

 

[Bob_Mac]

@Jesse-Infotainment @iceman77 we have an issue. My updates were fine when installing and now I am having issues as others have indicated. Taking a drive bought it to my attention when I saw "Pre-Collision Assist Not Available". I'm getting the extra 'ML3T after whitespace and a persistent DTC U2101 and using the Mongoose, see below:

 

[Fordphanatic]

Okay so

@Jesse-Infotainment @iceman77 we have an issue. My updates were fine when installing and now I am having issues as others have indicated. Taking a drive bought it to my attention when I saw "Pre-Collision Assist Not Available". I'm getting the extra 'ML3T after whitespace and a persistent DTC U2101 and using the Mongoose, see below:

I was just going to ask you if this is normal with the purple CCM module. I thought everything went well with my ipma update

 

[Bob_Mac]

This wasn't looking like this earlier as I d/l my AsBuilt before and after and now:

Now:
<NODEID>
706
<F10A>ML3T-14H106-AFN</F10A>
<F110>DSML3T-14G647-AL</F110>
<F111>ML3T-14H107-FF</F111>
<F113>ML3T-14G647-NA</F113>
<F120>ML3T-14H102-MDM</F120>
<F121>NL1T-14H102-SBD</F121>
<F122>ML3T-14H102-GAP</F122>
<F124>ML3T-14H103-AAJ</F124>
<F125>ML3T-14H103-ABP</F125>
<F127>ML3T-14H103-GAM</F127>
<F129>ML3T-19G490-BB ML3T</F129>
<F12A>ML3T-19G490-BB ML3T</F12A>
<F12B>ML3T-19J220-AB ML3T</F12B>
<F12C>ML3T-19J220-AB</F12C>
<F12E>ML3T-19G490-CA</F12E>
<F16B>ML3T-14H310-BDR</F16B>
<F17F>1AA14WB4</F17F>
<F188>ML3T-14H102-ABS</F188>
<F18C>ECUR2107300491</F18C>
<F1DC>ML3T-14H103-GBF</F1DC>
<F1E0>PXML3T-14G647-AA</F1E0>
<F1F3>28741964</F1F3>
</NODEID>

After update this morning:

<NODEID>
706
<F10A>ML3T-14H106-AFN</F10A>
<F110>DSML3T-14G647-AF</F110>
<F111>ML3T-14H107-FF</F111>
<F113>ML3T-14G647-NA</F113>
<F120>ML3T-14H102-MDM</F120>
<F121>NL1T-14H102-SBD</F121>
<F122>ML3T-14H102-GAP</F122>
<F124>ML3T-14H103-AAJ</F124>
<F125>ML3T-14H103-ABP</F125>
<F127>ML3T-14H103-GAM</F127>
<F129>ML3T-19G490-BB</F129>
<F12A>ML3T-19G490-BB</F12A>
<F12B>ML3T-19J220-AB</F12B>
<F12C>ML3T-19J220-AB</F12C>
<F12E>ML3T-19G490-CA</F12E>
<F16B>ML3T-14H310-BDR</F16B>
<F17F>1AA14WB4</F17F>
<F188>ML3T-14H102-ABS</F188>
<F18C>ECUR2107300491</F18C>
<F1DC>ML3T-14H103-GBF</F1DC>
<F1E0>PXML3T-14G647-AA</F1E0>
<F1F3>28741964</F1F3>
</NODEID>

 

[BHunted1]

The charger wasnt the problem. The long hold down bolt was a weak ground spot for me. My battery was recently changed at the dealership and when they changed it they apparently put anti seaze on the threads which was causing me to get a weak ground. Thanks to @Bob_Mac he figured it out and Now Im back to 12.6 volts. Scary for a minute

My battery was never changed and/or removed. That bolt is just not a good ground. So don't feel bad.

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