LightningShow
Well-known member
Nice work! I have a transfer switch set up (no generator connected) and I was considering this. I haven't looked into whether its a bonded neutral.
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The question is not whether the transfer switch has a bonded neutral (it doesn’t unless it’s listed as service equipment), it’s whether or not the transfer switch switches the neutral. It needs to switch the neutral if the generator has a bonded neutral.Nice work! I have a transfer switch set up (no generator connected) and I was considering this. I haven't looked into whether its a bonded neutral.
When I tested it I didn’t have any tripping issue. It was daytime on a warm day so the load was pretty low, less than 1 kW. I assume the refrigerator was the main load. I’m rooting for a power failure so I can get some more experience with it.Final observation…wondering if anyone else has experienced this: if I switch from utility power to generator power with all circuits on, it will cause a ground fault. If I turn each circuit on individually after switching to generator power there is no issue. The reverse it true as well…GFCI on the truck will trip when moving all circuits back from generator to utility power. Seems the truck may just be overly sensitive…not a deal breaker, just an observation (after hours of troubleshooting).
Yeah, there wasn’t much of a load initially…like you mentioned, just the refrigerator, and it’s a modern refrigerator that draws very little honestly. I really don’t know why it trips for me…just a sensitive butterfly I guess.When I tested it I didn’t have any tripping issue. It was daytime on a warm day so the load was pretty low, less than 1 kW. I assume the refrigerator was the main load. I’m rooting for a power failure so I can get some more experience with it.
I can verify that this switch requires the user to manually switch from Utility power (presumably out during a power outage) to generator power (in this case the truck bed’s 240v “pro power onboard” outlet that must also must be plugged into the house via a power inlet box.Just verifying my understanding of how this functions - this switch requires user cut-over - it isn't an automatic-sensing cutover when the grid drops out? If it did, the system would need a dark system battery to operate, correct?
Thanks, assumed that’s the case, I went SunRun/HIS, was installed in September, but they have had zero ability to get it working so far, have sent their top people from Orlando and New Jersey to our place in Boynton Beach, are now escalating to bringing in Ford engineering from Dearborn when we return from our current expedition to Antarctica.I can verify that this switch requires the user to manually switch from Utility power (presumably out during a power outage) to generator power (in this case the truck bed’s 240v “pro power onboard” outlet that must also must be plugged into the house via a power inlet box.
Automating this solution isn’t practical, as the truck would always have to be plugged into the house (via the 240v outlet, not the charger) AND the truck would have to remain “on” and the “pro power onboard” system turned on. It’s definitely a manual solution, so if you needed/wanted something automated, I think the Ford/SunRun HIS is the best (only) current solution.
This exact thing happens to me! Indicator light is on. I flip over and it causes ground fault. I go back in truck to reset pro power then it works just fine. It seems that instantaneous second when it flips the truck senses a fault. My electrician checked it out and he could only think that the truck is so dang sensitive. My back-feed cable is also like 150 ft so maybe the length could play a role? One of my breakers causes ground fault no matter what but is fine with gas. Trying to track that issue down.Final observation…wondering if anyone else has experienced this: if I switch from utility power to generator power with all circuits on, it will cause a ground fault. If I turn each circuit on individually after switching to generator power there is no issue. The reverse it true as well…GFCI on the truck will trip when moving all circuits back from generator to utility power. Seems the truck may just be overly sensitive…not a deal breaker, just an observation (after hours of troubleshooting).
Yup, that’s my issue.This exact thing happens to me! Indicator light is on. I flip over and it causes ground fault. I go back in truck to reset pro power then it works just fine. It seems that instantaneous second when it flips the truck senses a fault. My electrician checked it out and he could only think that the truck is so dang sensitive. My back-feed cable is also like 150 ft so maybe the length could play a role? One of my breakers causes ground fault no matter what but is fine with gas. Trying to track that issue down.
I will post pics of mine shortly. I have walkout basement plug for gas generator then opposite side of house is another 240V for the truck so I have both options for power loss which happens frequently here.
Would this work plugged into the generator port of a hybrid inverter like the Sol Ark? As DiveMan911 says "Automating this solution isn’t practical" unless it can be coupled with less expensive short-term power storage like AGM batteries.I can verify that this switch requires the user to manually switch from Utility power (presumably out during a power outage) to generator power (in this case the truck bed’s 240v “pro power onboard” outlet that must also must be plugged into the house via a power inlet box.
Automating this solution isn’t practical, as the truck would always have to be plugged into the house (via the 240v outlet, not the charger) AND the truck would have to remain “on” and the “pro power onboard” system turned on. It’s definitely a manual solution, so if you needed/wanted something automated, I think the Ford/SunRun HIS is the best (only) current solution.
Would this work plugged into the generator port of a hybrid inverter like the Sol Ark? As DiveMan911 says "Automating this solution isn’t practical" unless it can be coupled with less expensive short-term power storage like AGM batteries.
I’m on an electrical forum where a guy who installsI looked briefly at the Sol Arc, since you mentioned it in this post. I’m not familiar with that product or it’s intricacies…so I couldn’t give you anything informed on it or integration with a transfer switch.
If we are talking using your Sol-Ark 15k generator in port to receive power from your Lightning 240V 30A power port, I'm betting a lot of people - including Sol Ark - would like to know how you did it. I know I would, including what settings you used for your Sol Ark.My Sol-Ark 15k generator in port works fine, and has since it was installed last year.