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Installed JL Audio 8" Powered MicroSub+ behind rear seat - Lariat ER

BennyTheBeaver

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There is also a grommet directly under the drivers floor, I used this one for the amp power steps. You take off the door sill and pull back carpet and there it is.
That will also finally give me the motivation to install my floor anchors for my mats.
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skyak

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Bobcat

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Your welcome.


That is exactly the harness you need and no other modules in between. The JL Audio amplifiers have everything built in, we just need the signal to feed it.

You will notice it has two inputs, "High-Level Inputs" through a small plug and also "Low Level" inputs through the RCA.

To simply what these are and when to use them on this amplifier
- RCA = Only with an aftermarket radio
- Speaker Wire = With factory stereos

On our harness, you will choose "Oval Subwoofer" + "Speaker Wire" and this will be wired to the "High-Level Inputs". The RCA connections will not be used.

Nex step is to swith the "Turn-On Mode" to DC, this will handle the remote turn on/off, so no need for a remote wire.

From here, Power + Ground from the battery, do not use cab/chassis ground, bass knob and adjust the "Input Sensitivity".

You are good to go :)



On the Unleashed systems, you can use ForScan to turn off the ANC microphones which help, but on the regular B&O, nothing else is needed.

The non-amplified trucks do not have a subwoofer, so the stereo signal needs to come from the doors which have a reduction in subwoofer frequencies so customers do not damage the $3 paper cone drivers in the doors. So a KeyLoc is used to recreate this missing range in the music.

Hope all of this helps and let me know if you have any other questions
Don
Will the JL Audio powered subs still benefit from an LC2i or Keyloc to correct bass roll off on the B&O (8 speaker) system or is the built in stuff on the JL sufficient?
 

SoundsGoodStereo

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Will the JL Audio powered subs still benefit from an LC2i or Keyloc to correct bass roll off on the B&O (8 speaker) system or is the built in stuff on the JL sufficient?
The built-in line output converter is perfectly sufficient to handle the signal, with no need for duplicate converters. Depending on the subwoofer enclosure you chose will depend if you need to correct the signal or add a bass boost.


I would connect what you have and start to listen. Try to position the subwoofer in multiple locations to see if you can squeeze out better low-end performance. If you went with a sealed subwoofer, a larger diameter, you will starve for low-bass as this setup is not really recommended in these trucks. In that case, add a Kicker KeyLOC to flatten the signal and it will help your sealed enclosure perform better. If you have not purchased the enclosure yet, go with a smaller driver, but in a vented enclosure.
 

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Has anyone looked at or had experience with Rockville subs? I was looking at the model SS10P,self contained and has auto on/off.Seems to have decent reviews and won’t break the bank.Appreciate any input.
 

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Can someone share pics of how you ran the power wire from amp to the 12v battery.
I saw a video that routed the wires from underneath the truck but had to punch couple of holes which I dont want to. Planning to run a 4 gauge power wire from inside the truck to the 12v battery.

Thanks in advance.
 

kvasiir

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Can someone share pics of how you ran the power wire from amp to the 12v battery.
I saw a video that routed the wires from underneath the truck but had to punch couple of holes which I dont want to. Planning to run a 4 gauge power wire from inside the truck to the 12v battery.

Thanks in advance.
I ran mine on the outside, pics at my installation thread. It was certainly very easy that way. I bet you could go down the side where my speakers went though too. Good luck!
 

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Can someone share pics of how you ran the power wire from amp to the 12v battery.
I saw a video that routed the wires from underneath the truck but had to punch couple of holes which I dont want to. Planning to run a 4 gauge power wire from inside the truck to the 12v battery.

Thanks in advance.
I did as @kvasiir did and drilled the hole, used the cable gland and ran it under the truck. You don't have any choice if you use 00 gauge.

Using the 4 gauge you note, you may get that in the cable runs in under the door sills. There are good videos via google that show how to run the full path, but if you haven't seen it at all - just pull up on the plastic cover that is right in the middle of the door sill and you'll easily see what you are working with. you can then get the back panel by the back seat off as well as the panel between the front and back seat or you may be able to fish under those.
 

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Transforms the audio experience and doesn't interfere with under seat storage. Replaces the stock subwoofer. Power fed from 12v battery. It really is amazing bang for buck. The sub output level control is installed on the steering wheel column. I highly recommend this solution to anyone wanting to improve the audio experience with minimal work.

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Are you still enjoying the subwoofer?
 

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skyak

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Are you still enjoying the subwoofer?
Yes, this subwoofer plus disconnect center speaker works wonders for the price and ease of install.
 

Jdella31

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Yes, this subwoofer plus disconnect center speaker works wonders for the price and ease of install.
Thank you for the reply back. Are you referring to the 3” in the dash?
 
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skyak

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Jasontn316

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What did you guys do to make the Microsub fit with the center seatbelt post?
 

BennyTheBeaver

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What did you guys do to make the Microsub fit with the center seatbelt post?
Nothing. It fits behind the rear drivers side seat.
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