Installing Pro Power Onboard 9.6kW Inverter - OEM

[ZSC100]

Do we know the cable part #?

It appears to be Part #: NL3Z14290M
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/e...ck-control-module-wiring-harness-p-nl3z14290m

I'm able to see this diagram on parts.ford.com, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to go from the base # 14289A to the actual part # NL3Z14290M. My parts guy at the dealer said he also doesn't know why they don't really make it easy to do this for owners on parts.ford.com, but once the dealer provided me the part # I could plug it in and see that the description does make sense:

Drive Motor Battery Pack Control Module Wiring Harness
Power Inverter #3. Single Phase Charger - 145"/3675MM Wheelbase.

I could try to figure out the coolant hoses this way too ,but I honestly think the coolant hoses can be done with normal automotive plumbing methods but will need an example vehicle to go by to know where they tee in. We need someone with this Pro Power Onboard 9.6kW to be able to reference, take pics, have their bed pulled off . Preferably a Pro or XLT.

I'm guessing the 7.2kW, 240V inverter is referred to as "Power Inverter #3", so I searched this and found this:

Part #: NL3Z7F120A
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/engine/engine-cooling/engine-coolant-pipe-tube-p-nl3z7f120a

Part #: NL3Z8D121B
https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/engine/engine-cooling/engine-coolant-pipe-hose-inlet-p-nl3z8d121b

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[mr2urbo004]

Not sure who really will move their bed to take pictures for us?

 

[ZSC100]

No, unless someone familiar with this thread who is interested in this mod has a best friend with one our best opportunity will be watching for and aware in general of a Lightning with a battery module replacement in one of our cities where we can go inspect while the battery is removed and it's up on a lift. A close friend here in Tulsa had his done just a few months ago and our dealer was super cool, they let us come in and look at the battery and truck while they had it all apart. Unfortunately he also doesn't have the 7.2kW inverter or I'd go look at his truck right now. I don't personally know anyone with one here in Tulsa yet.

 

[mr2urbo004]

Id need a shit ton of views to make it worth it haha

You will get a tons of views if you did it.

 

[mr2urbo004]

I doubt it. My Lightning content has been the worst performing of everything I have ever done. Im very surprised. I was making $1000 a month on Tesla content. Lightning stuff is getting me $200 or less a month.

You have to do stuff people havent done and want. The T-rex isnt for 99% of the people.

 

[ZSC100]

Id need a shit ton of views to make it worth it haha

Damn it James , if you hooked into that high voltage junction box you should pull your bed back off to just make a good video about how the system works. I bet with the right education related promotion you would get a shitload of views. Especially if you sprinkle it through this forum. Then while you have the bed off, go ahead and help this particular thread .

 

[Blochead21]

Looking at my pro power connector under the bed I have 3 wires (white, green, & red) going into the module. But looking at the connector feeding it there are four wires. Looking at the 14th gen forum the same four wires appear to feed the module, but there are then four wires (white, green, red, & black) feeding the module. Do you guys have the same thing? I would think we could just check the voltage coming out to confirm 240 across the legs right?

The last picture with the extra plug is from the 14th gen forum.

 

[mr2urbo004]

Looking at my pro power connector under the bed I have 3 wires (white, green, & red) going into the module. But looking at the connector feeding it there are four wires. Looking at the 14th gen forum the same four wires appear to feed the module, but there are then four wires (white, green, red, & black) feeding the module. Do you guys have the same thing? I would think we could just check the voltage coming out to confirm 240 across the legs right?

The last picture with the extra plug is from the 14th gen forum.

Yes but there is only 1 power going out of the wire. We need the inverter and wires to make it work. I plug the ice 240v panel and on the left side is getting power and also on the 240v only 1 wire is getting power. Ice panel is the same connectors and will work if you have the rest of the stuff.

 

[hturnerfamily]

My Lightning PRO with Pro Power has worked perfectly for the several times I've tested it, and used it, during a power outage. None of the outages lasted longly, but it proves that even the simplest setup, if you are comfortable with electricity, can easily provide most of the power for everything in the home, even at the same time. Of course, temperate times of the year are easier, but even summer or winter cooling and heating can happen, if you manage the electrical needs.

Most recently, we had a loss of power, with a text from the utility provider that they 'knew' of the outage, and would be assessing and making the needed repairs within 8 hours. That gave me enough reason to go out and trip off the home's main 200a breaker, replace my EVSE at the 50amp outlet with my 'power cord' to the truck, and turn on the Pro Power. The house came back to life.

Everyone is not comfortable with this method, and that's o.k... some folks would not be o.k. with ANY type of whole-house electrical methods. Mine works. The truck works. It's all good.

For the question of whether someone with a home's a/c unit on a 50amp 240v breaker - I can imagine that not all a/c systems are built the same, and while a few might be actually 'needing' something past 30amps for operation, I think that most systems operate under that - and are generally only on 30amp 240v breakers, like mine. All a/c units actually use the MOST amperage for a fraction of a second when the compressor comes to life, then the a/c unit's compressor calms down to a much-lower amperage requirement. The 30amp 240v breaker is generally what you will find because the 'start-up' amperage is above 20amps, which is the next 'lower' breaker you can get.
I actually have THREE a/c units in my home, crazy I know. Of course, I don't 'run' all three at the same time, even under 'normal' everyday conditions - but I did run TWO at the same time, along with my water heater, which is on a 30amp 240v breaker, and my 120v fridge, and my 120v freezer, and all my house ceiling fans, and everything else that was plugged in and running during that time, and the Pro Power had no issues.
Will it trip off the Pro Power if you request TOO MUCH at the same time? Of course, that's what it's designed to do. It is not 'dangerous'. It does not 'hurt' anything. It simply 'times out' until you reset it.
You'll also notice when you use Pro Power your truck's screen will show that each 'side' of the 240v power output is NOT necessarily the same. That's because rarely do we have everything drawing power from the same 'side' of power, at the same time, and for the same length of time. Some devices may even vary the power they use WHILE they are being used, such as a stove. Some items only come 'on' when their internal sensors require it, such as the fridge's compressor, the freezer, and of course, the a/c unit's thermostat. The water heater certainly doesn't run 24/7, either. So, when you 'manage' electrical needs, yes, you have to consider ALL things that require power, but rarely do ALL of those things use power even at the same time.

We generally have 200amp house breaker main panels, yet we rarely EVER use anything even CLOSE to 200amp at any given moment. You'd probably be surprised how LITTLE amperage you actually use on an hour-by-hour basis. There will be spikes, and certainly times, whenever everything 'aligns', but that is rare. When you are using Pro Power, you are doing it during a time of 'less than full power', so, yes, you are going to 'manage' your power needs and not necessarily do everything you might 'normally' do. You might turn OFF your water heater during the outage. You might decide NOT to let the thermostat make the decision about when and for how long your a/c unit runs. You might decide that it's NOT a good time to use the stove or oven.

 

[mr2urbo004]

My Lightning PRO with Pro Power has worked perfectly for the several times I've tested it, and used it, during a power outage. None of the outages lasted longly, but it proves that even the simplest setup, if you are comfortable with electricity, can easily provide most of the power for everything in the home, even at the same time. Of course, temperate times of the year are easier, but even summer or winter cooling and heating can happen, if you manage the electrical needs.

Most recently, we had a loss of power, with a text from the utility provider that they 'knew' of the outage, and would be assessing and making the needed repairs within 8 hours. That gave me enough reason to go out and trip off the home's main 200a breaker, replace my EVSE at the 50amp outlet with my 'power cord' to the truck, and turn on the Pro Power. The house came back to life.

Everyone is not comfortable with this method, and that's o.k... some folks would not be o.k. with ANY type of whole-house electrical methods. Mine works. The truck works. It's all good.

For the question of whether someone with a home's a/c unit on a 50amp 240v breaker - I can imagine that not all a/c systems are built the same, and while a few might be actually 'needing' something past 30amps for operation, I think that most systems operate under that - and are generally only on 30amp 240v breakers, like mine. All a/c units actually use the MOST amperage for a fraction of a second when the compressor comes to life, then the a/c unit's compressor calms down to a much-lower amperage requirement. The 30amp 240v breaker is generally what you will find because the 'start-up' amperage is above 20amps, which is the next 'lower' breaker you can get.
I actually have THREE a/c units in my home, crazy I know. Of course, I don't 'run' all three at the same time, even under 'normal' everyday conditions - but I did run TWO at the same time, along with my water heater, which is on a 30amp 240v breaker, and my 120v fridge, and my 120v freezer, and all my house ceiling fans, and everything else that was plugged in and running during that time, and the Pro Power had no issues.
Will it trip off the Pro Power if you request TOO MUCH at the same time? Of course, that's what it's designed to do. It is not 'dangerous'. It does not 'hurt' anything. It simply 'times out' until you reset it.
You'll also notice when you use Pro Power your truck's screen will show that each 'side' of the 240v power output is NOT necessarily the same. That's because rarely do we have everything drawing power from the same 'side' of power, at the same time, and for the same length of time. Some devices may even vary the power they use WHILE they are being used, such as a stove. Some items only come 'on' when their internal sensors require it, such as the fridge's compressor, the freezer, and of course, the a/c unit's thermostat. The water heater certainly doesn't run 24/7, either. So, when you 'manage' electrical needs, yes, you have to consider ALL things that require power, but rarely do ALL of those things use power even at the same time.

We generally have 200amp house breaker main panels, yet we rarely EVER use anything even CLOSE to 200amp at any given moment. You'd probably be surprised how LITTLE amperage you actually use on an hour-by-hour basis. There will be spikes, and certainly times, whenever everything 'aligns', but that is rare. When you are using Pro Power, you are doing it during a time of 'less than full power', so, yes, you are going to 'manage' your power needs and not necessarily do everything you might 'normally' do. You might turn OFF your water heater during the outage. You might decide NOT to let the thermostat make the decision about when and for how long your a/c unit runs. You might decide that it's NOT a good time to use the stove or oven.

How much watts were you doing? Going to power the house with the 20amp using 5-20p to l14-30.

 

[jdmackes]

Damn it James , if you hooked into that high voltage junction box you should pull your bed back off to just make a good video about how the system works. I bet with the right education related promotion you would get a shitload of views. Especially if you sprinkle it through this forum. Then while you have the bed off, go ahead and help this particular thread .

I don't think I can remove my bed (when line-x put on the bedliner they covered the bolts on the bed) but I do have an endoscope camera that I could use if you could tell me where you want me to look and take some photos/video

 

[ZSC100]

I don't think I can remove my bed (when line-x put on the bedliner they covered the bolts on the bed) but I do have an endoscope camera that I could use if you could tell me where you want me to look and take some photos/video

Awesome JD, thanks, I wouldn't ask you to remove the bed just for pics unless you were my neighbor and I could help/do the work If you can get us some pics verifying there the cooling hoses go and where the high voltage wires go that would be awesome.

Specifically, if the hoses simply tee into existing hoses close by.

and

Specifically, if the high voltage wires go into that HV power distribution box just in front of the axle on the passenger side under the bed.

You may be able to just snap these pics with your cell phone and flash from below or through holes in the fender wells.

Thanks,
Zach

 

[GunRack]

ooof, I love DIY but honestly for this one, I'd just replace the truck with one that has it. I've yet to find a use for my Pro Power.

If you're just doing it for the views, cool. I'll follow along. It's going to be interesting to watch and more power (literally) to you.

 

[mr2urbo004]

ooof, I love DIY but honestly for this one, I'd just replace the truck with one that has it. I've yet to find a use for my Pro Power.

If you're just doing it for the views, cool. I'll follow along. It's going to be interesting to watch and more power (literally) to you.

Can't replace a truck for the same price we got it for.

 

[ZSC100]

ooof, I love DIY but honestly for this one, I'd just replace the truck with one that has it. I've yet to find a use for my Pro Power.

If you're just doing it for the views, cool. I'll follow along. It's going to be interesting to watch and more power (literally) to you.

No way, I got my XLT SR EG 311A for 54k @ 4.9% with Ford Credit then got the $7500 tax credit, With that and 11mo of paying I'm down to 41k. I agree this mod isn't for everyone, but if you want to be able to charge other EV's at a useful pace, or power any home with an HVAC system, this inverter is pretty cool.

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