Living in The Lightning On The Road -- Almost a Year and Counting

[Brons2]

Good thing you are there and not here, we have had multiple mornings this week in the low 20s, including this morning. I thought it was supposed to be getting warmer but I have one of those Google smart alarm clocks and when I hit the snooze this morning it was 22F. I live in Central Texas, whyyyy oh whyyyy.....one day of this crap is enough. We got our dusting of snow for the year, now I'm ready for seasonal wintertime weather, i.e., high 65 to 70 and lows around 50.

The charger inside our trucks (and inside all North America market area EVs) senses the provided voltage. If the receptacle-provided voltage is at 120V, the car's (truck's) charger will automatically demand no more than 12 amps while charging, so as to not overdraw from a common NEMA 15-5 receptacle which is designed to supply no more that 15-amps.

I understand this is a safety limitation agreed to in the J1772 standard.

Yeah it's unfortunate that we can't draw up to 30 amps on the old-style TTY receptacles at RV sites, but there's be no way for the car / truck to distinguish what type of 120V NEMA receptacle it is drawing juice from.

Two things:

1. A travel charger that has the circuitry to adjust voltage automatically, or a manually adjusting one like the Bokman I have for our Mach-E, can be set to 24A and with an adapter you should be about to use a 30A RV recepticle with an adapter.

2. There are 16A chargers that you can use on a 20A, 120V circuit that are supposedly slightly faster. maybe in the 2Kwh range. A standard household wall outlet is 15A, but there are things like refrigerators and dishwashers that use 20A circuits with a single outlet on the circuit.

Never tried one, but I've seen the 16A chargers on Amazon, maybe since OP is full time on the road it would be of use to him.

I also recommended this to my 70-something parents as they have a 22 ID.4 and have been charging on L1 for 2.5 years. I've already installed outlets in the garage for my parents for their glass kiln and would do one of these if they wanted for an EV circuit, so far not requested.

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[Sdctcher]

Hey! Thanks again for the great answers! But, I just hate to spend any $ for another mobile charger - I was hoping there might be a way to make my Ford Mobile Charger do the job. I had thought the Campsite 30A plug to a 30A to 50A adapter/dongle to my 50A Ford Mobile Charger plug would work but NO. I have tried this at three different camps but no luck.

BTW, I am heading east to Oklahoma along I-8 with a stop in Ozona in a few weeks so I monitor your weather in TX-OK. I feel for you. I believe I will hang out here a couple weeks longer so you can use up that nasty cold weather before I get there.

 

[21st Century Truck]

Probably another stupid question, but I have a pet peave. When I pull into a site and connect my truck bed power outlet to my camper I understand that my truck must remain "running" for the duration (and also to keep my Lightning WiFi powered up). My peave is in order to keep my truck on I am forced to monitor it for about 1/2 hr. until it beeps and tells me to click the OK button on the steering wheel to keep the truck ON. There must be a more manual and easier way?

There's a setting for this on the truck's Sync screen: SETTINGS / VEHICLE / 30-MINUTE SHUTOFF. It's the top blue toggle on my Sync screen at that location.

 

[Sdctcher]

There's a setting for this on the truck's Sync screen: SETTINGS / VEHICLE / 30-MINUTE SHUTOFF. It's the top blue toggle on my Sync screen at that location.

Damn! Mr. 21st - You Good! I got it now. You don't know how many hours you have saved me the rest of my life! Even at 80 yrs. old I still got a few left.

 

[21st Century Truck]

Damn! Mr. 21st - You Good! I got it now. You don't know how many hours you have saved me the rest of my life! Even at 80 yrs. old I still got a few left.

Hahaa - I know this setting 'cause I use it myself

 

[21st Century Truck]

Thanks. I understand all of this. My problem is the site provides me with a 3 prong standard RV 30A plug in but my Ford Mobile Charger connectors only give me the option of a 120V or 50A (4 prong).

I've noticed this on our previous EVs (Ford Mustang Mach E and on my Sonny Boy's used Audi E-tron). It seems that every dang car manufacturer insists on proprietary "brick end" connectors for their different plug whips I mean... it's just wires, right?

So we now have standardized NEMA receptacles on the plug ends of all these whips, but wildly different proprietary connectors on the charging cord "brick" ends. Therefore, a Ford whip can only be used with a Ford charging cord, etc. etc. Ehhh...

I still have, for distant travel, the old 2012-era 20-amp EVSEUpgrade portable EVSE which, very wisely IMHO, put a NEMA L6-10P locking universal connector on their EVSE... and I have, like, 8 different receptacle adapters, mostly from ACWorks.com, of which I've used six so far in our travels.

 

[Brons2]

Hey! Thanks again for the great answers! But, I just hate to spend any $ for another mobile charger - I was hoping there might be a way to make my Ford Mobile Charger do the job. I had thought the Campsite 30A plug to a 30A to 50A adapter/dongle to my 50A Ford Mobile Charger plug would work but NO. I have tried this at three different camps but no luck.

BTW, I am heading east to Oklahoma along I-8 with a stop in Ozona in a few weeks so I monitor your weather in TX-OK. I feel for you. I believe I will hang out here a couple weeks longer so you can use up that nasty cold weather before I get there.

The Ford Mobile Chager we have for the Mach-E has already broken, it refused to L2 charge, just getting a yellow light and no voltage, but would L1 charge. We took it back to the dealer and they did a software update and it worked for a while after that, although it would go up and down in voltage a lot, but now it's broken again. I'm using it to charge my Lightning at L1 becaue I don't drive a lot, but anyway.

The Ford issued charger has a really bad reputation on the Mach-E forum, not sure about here. But if I were you, I would plan on replacing it at some point anyway. This is the one I bought and it is rock solid all day at 7.2KW, 30.8A:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CD1LTXHF?th=1

Regarding the comment I made earlier about the 30A RV spots:

https://www.amazon.com/ELETHOR-Char...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

 

[Sdctcher]

The Ford Mobile Chager we have for the Mach-E has already broken, it refused to L2 charge, just getting a yellow light and no voltage, but would L1 charge. We took it back to the dealer and they did a software update and it worked for a while after that, although it would go up and down in voltage a lot, but now it's broken again. I'm using it to charge my Lightning at L1 becaue I don't drive a lot, but anyway.

The Ford issued charger has a really bad reputation on the Mach-E forum, not sure about here. But if I were you, I would plan on replacing it at some point anyway. This is the one I bought and it is rock solid all day at 7.2KW, 30.8A:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CD1LTXHF?th=1

Regarding the comment I made earlier about the 30A RV spots:

https://www.amazon.com/ELETHOR-Char...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

I will have to replace it at some point but hope to make it last until the NACS turmoil levels out.

My only problems so far have been many ground faults, usually with ambient temps more than 90 or less than 30.

 

[carys98]

I've noticed this on our previous EVs (Ford Mustang Mach E and on my Sonny Boy's used Audi E-tron). It seems that every dang car manufacturer insists on proprietary "brick end" connectors for their different plug whips I mean... it's just wires, right?

So we now have standardized NEMA receptacles on the plug ends of all these whips, but wildly different proprietary connectors on the charging cord "brick" ends. Therefore, a Ford whip can only be used with a Ford charging cord, etc. etc. Ehhh...

I still have, for distant travel, the old 2012-era 20-amp EVSEUpgrade portable EVSE which, very wisely IMHO, put a NEMA L6-10P locking universal connector on their EVSE... and I have, like, 8 different receptacle adapters, mostly from ACWorks.com, of which I've used six so far in our travels.

The proprietary end that plugs into the charger has a pin that is used to communicate the max current available with that plug. That is how the LIghtning version (with the yellow band on the cable) is set to 30A while the MachE version goes to 32A. It would be nice if the EVSE suppliers would agree on a standard.

 

[Nikos]

Probably another stupid question, but I have a pet peave. When I pull into a site and connect my truck bed power outlet to my camper I understand that my truck must remain "running" for the duration (and also to keep my Lightning WiFi powered up). My peave is in order to keep my truck on I am forced to monitor it for about 1/2 hr. until it beeps and tells me to click the OK button on the steering wheel to keep the truck ON. There must be a more manual and easier way?

Probably another stupid question, but I have a pet peave. When I pull into a site and connect my truck bed power outlet to my camper I understand that my truck must remain "running" for the duration (and also to keep my Lightning WiFi powered up). My peave is in order to keep my truck on I am forced to monitor it for about 1/2 hr. until it beeps and tells me to click the OK button on the steering wheel to keep the truck ON. There must be a more manual and easier way?

On your big screen, select the “Power On Board” page. Select the area you want powered. Frunk and cabin or truck bed and cabin. Cabin always is powered. Make sure you set the minimum power that you need before the truck shuts down. Usually is in miles reserved. Put large screen in dark mode or sleep mode. Do the same for the instrument cluster. Unfortunately you can’t shut down those screens I just mentioned. You can monitor the consumed wattage in the outlets you have powered. It averages between 15 to 30 miles per day. 2 miles per kilowatt so between 7kw to 15kw, depending on use. When I camp in primitive mode with my rooftop tent, my consumption is 7-8 kw. Until Ford give us the Camp Mode and Pet Mode, you going to have to do it this way, unfortunately.

 

[Maquis]

Good thing you are there and not here, we have had multiple mornings this week in the low 20s, including this morning. I thought it was supposed to be getting warmer but I have one of those Google smart alarm clocks and when I hit the snooze this morning it was 22F. I live in Central Texas, whyyyy oh whyyyy.....one day of this crap is enough. We got our dusting of snow for the year, now I'm ready for seasonal wintertime weather, i.e., high 65 to 70 and lows around 50.



Two things:

1. A travel charger that has the circuitry to adjust voltage automatically, or a manually adjusting one like the Bokman I have for our Mach-E, can be set to 24A and with an adapter you should be about to use a 30A RV recepticle with an adapter.

2. There are 16A chargers that you can use on a 20A, 120V circuit that are supposedly slightly faster. maybe in the 2Kwh range. A standard household wall outlet is 15A, but there are things like refrigerators and dishwashers that use 20A circuits with a single outlet on the circuit.

Never tried one, but I've seen the 16A chargers on Amazon, maybe since OP is full time on the road it would be of use to him.

I also recommended this to my 70-something parents as they have a 22 ID.4 and have been charging on L1 for 2.5 years. I've already installed outlets in the garage for my parents for their glass kiln and would do one of these if they wanted for an EV circuit, so far not requested.

You can buy all the crap you want, but the Lightning will never charge over 12A on 120V.

 

[Brons2]

You can buy all the crap you want, but the Lightning will never charge over 12A on 120V.

Then it is a limitation of the vehicle.

I've worked in and around datacenters for more than 25 years, it's physically possible to dial up 30A on 120V if that's what the equipment calls for (3600W). Usually used in UPS applications when I've seen it.

 

[Sdctcher]

On your big screen, select the “Power On Board” page. Select the area you want powered. Frunk and cabin or truck bed and cabin. Cabin always is powered. Make sure you set the minimum power that you need before the truck shuts down. Usually is in miles reserved. Put large screen in dark mode or sleep mode. Do the same for the instrument cluster. Unfortunately you can’t shut down those screens I just mentioned. You can monitor the consumed wattage in the outlets you have powered. It averages between 15 to 30 miles per day. 2 miles per kilowatt so between 7kw to 15kw, depending on use. When I camp in primitive mode with my rooftop tent, my consumption is 7-8 kw. Until Ford give us the Camp Mode and Pet Mode, you going to have to do it this way, unfortunately.

Thanks Nikos. I have a good understanding of all of this and now reset my minimums when towing. My consumption has been running less than 5 kW so while plug in 120v my truck more than keeps up. Maybe someday Ford will see our posts and realize there is a future in Lightning camping if they would just supply some updates.

 

[Sdctcher]

You can buy all the crap you want, but the Lightning will never charge over 12A on 120V.

All I am trying to do is supply whatever I can get to my Ford Mobile from a 30A RV plug in with the dongles Ford has supplied me.

 

[sd25]

I wish there was a way to use the full amperage of the site's 30A plug in but I have not discovered it yet. Now I bell down from 30A to a 120V plug. I tried using a 30A male to 50A female dongle to connect my Ford Mobile Charger but it will not send power to the truck. I understand that there are other better mobile chargers on the market but I would rather not buy another right now. I wish Ford would send me a 30A male dongle that plugs directly into my charger. Right now the only two options are 120V and 50A plugs.

Any suggestions? Or am I doing something wrong?

@Sdctcher I'm impressed with your adventurous spirit. Thanks for being a great part of this community. Wish you all the best on your travels!

I haven't tested it myself yet, but this might work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2ZT1Z16?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_13

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