Low / Medium Cost Audio upgrade

[GDN]

Looking to upgrade my 8 speaker B and O. Has anyone experience with the Alpine R2-S65 coaxials? They look like a newer version of the R-S65. The R2 appears to be a little deeper and I’m wondering if there will be any mounting issue.
Also, if anyone has any other recommendations for speakers I’m all ears.

Crutchfield is still a pretty good place to look. They carry decent brands and at a minimum they will show you which speakers need mounting brackets and they have those. To go with those you note or any like them you'll need a bracket and likely new electrical connectors too. Those are cheap and on Amazon.

If you are really asking for recommendations - I went with Focal Flax Evo's and love them. I don't regret it, but I also went a little stupid on the whole upgrade. For other top end recommendations look at Sounds Good Stereo's web site in TN and Mobile Toys in TX. They both sell complete kits with amps, etc.

Many have noted and you are starting in a good place, just replacing the speakers can make a big difference. The ones in there are cheap light paper junk. Some sound dampening material and block off plates can go a long way to help the doors too. If you added those while you have the door open, you wouldn't have to go back and open them back up if you decide to take it to the next level with replacing amps, etc.

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[richguy82]

Crutchfield is still a pretty good place to look. They carry decent brands and at a minimum they will show you which speakers need mounting brackets and they have those. To go with those you note or any like them you'll need a bracket and likely new electrical connectors too. Those are cheap and on Amazon.

If you are really asking for recommendations - I went with Focal Flax Evo's and love them. I don't regret it, but I also went a little stupid on the whole upgrade. For other top end recommendations look at Sounds Good Stereo's web site in TN and Mobile Toys in TX. They both sell complete kits with amps, etc.

Many have noted and you are starting in a good place, just replacing the speakers can make a big difference. The ones in there are cheap light paper junk. Some sound dampening material and block off plates can go a long way to help the doors too. If you added those while you have the door open, you wouldn't have to go back and open them back up if you decide to take it to the next level with replacing amps, etc.

Thanks for the info! I keep reading good things about the Alpine and I recall them being good quality. I’ll check out the Focals. I have the harnesses, connection plates, and fast rings in my cart along with various foam tapes and such. Probably need to get some matting as well. Going to start without additional amps for now. Maybe put in a small sub down the road. I don’t want to lose any cab space, or add too much weight.

 

[21st Century Truck]

I just went with JL Audio C3 series 6.5 inch Evolution Convertible speakers.

 

[GDN]

[Double posting in a few of the audio threads, sorry]

Holy cow...where you guys going through the firewall for amp wire? I have the frunk tub out.

I thought I had read that it was easy to go from the passenger "dummy" side port door but it doesnt look great.

I havent pulled down the inside trim/floor mat, yet.

Just replied to your other post - reply here for consistency. Use a Cable Gland from Amazon. Drill a hole through the floor and run power under the truck.

 

[digitaldad]

Yeah, I saw it @GDN and went to delete this one, thanks for the time.

 

[richguy82]

Has anyone else tried replacing the center speaker? I saw in another post/forum about replacing with the Dayton Audio 3.5 8 ohm speaker. I can’t find any info about what type of connection/harness would be needed. I may just need to wait and hear the new speakers before I make any more changes.

 

[digitaldad]

Has anyone else tried replacing the center speaker? I saw in another post/forum about replacing with the Dayton Audio 3.5 8 ohm speaker. I can’t find any info about what type of connection/harness would be needed. I may just need to wait and hear the new speakers before I make any more changes.

Someone in Gen14 forums posted that it is this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089292V5C

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/b-o-speaker-upgrade-recommendation.28713/page-3#post-601052

Probably worth just cutting it out and leave enough to splice back in, if needed.

 

[richguy82]

Someone in Gen14 forums posted that it is this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089292V5C

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/b-o-speaker-upgrade-recommendation.28713/page-3#post-601052

Probably worth just cutting it out and leave enough to splice back in, if needed.

That’s very helpful! Thank you!

 

[GDN]

Someone in Gen14 forums posted that it is this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089292V5C

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/b-o-speaker-upgrade-recommendation.28713/page-3#post-601052

Probably worth just cutting it out and leave enough to splice back in, if needed.

Try getting all of the other speakers replaced and see what you think, then just unplug that front center speaker. See what you think. If you think its missing something, then consider a replacement.

 

[digitaldad]

For those that replaced all door speakers (still getting power from head unit/B&O amp), did your volume/power seem neutral between the front and rear doors?

I put in 6.5" 2-ways in all four doors and the rear is still so much quieter than the fronts. Is there a FORScan setting that is hindering the frequencies back there?

I added a keyloc/amp/sub and can definitely crank higher volume clicks than stock but something seems off (still) in the rears. For now, I'm fader'ing the rear pretty heavily for getting the best sound in the cab to where I can at least hear some of the rears from the front.

 

[watts/up]

For those that replaced all door speakers (still getting power from head unit), did your volume/power seem neutral between the front and rear doors?

I put in 6.5" 2-ways in all four doors and the rear is still so much quieter than the fronts. Is there a FORScan setting that is hindering the frequencies back there?

I added a keyloc/amp/sub and can definitely crank higher volume clicks than stock but something seems off (still) in the rears. For now, I'm fader'ing the rear pretty heavily for getting the best sound in the cab to where I can at least hear some of the rears from the front.

If you used two-way speakers in the front did you disable the tweeters in the A-pillars? I'm not sure what audio system you have but if it's wired like the six-speaker system (and you didn't rewire the speakers) those tweeters would still be active along with your new speakers in the front doors. Here's a diagram of how they're wired in the base six-speaker system.

 

[digitaldad]

If you used two-way speakers in the front did you disable the tweeters in the A-pillars? I'm not sure what audio system you have but if it's wired like the six-speaker system (and you didn't rewire the speakers) those tweeters would still be active along with your new speakers in the front doors. Here's a diagram of how they're wired in the base six-speaker system.

Thanks, neglected to mention that I have the B&O, 8-speaker. I did not yet touch the tweeters nor the center channel. On this version the tweeters are not fed from the B&0 amp.

The fronts sound great.

 

[dww]

For those that replaced all door speakers (still getting power from head unit/B&O amp), did your volume/power seem neutral between the front and rear doors?

I put in 6.5" 2-ways in all four doors and the rear is still so much quieter than the fronts. Is there a FORScan setting that is hindering the frequencies back there?

I added a keyloc/amp/sub and can definitely crank higher volume clicks than stock but something seems off (still) in the rears. For now, I'm fader'ing the rear pretty heavily for getting the best sound in the cab to where I can at least hear some of the rears from the front.

Fronts are powered by the amp behind the rear seats, the rears are powered by the head unit. Yes, they are a lot quieter.

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