Powerboost 7.2kW Towing Travel Trailer - First hookup and test results

[laujoyjoy]

Sensor hookup:

I really really hated to have to install this, was hoping the sticker software update would come but I bit the bullet and just installed the damn thing.

I tried to hide it under the propane tank housing but I couldn't zip tie there. So I put it forward a bit (so much for the warning label!) to the front of the propane tank to make it easier to unplug the cable if ever needed. The orientation forces the initial cable to go backward, so I made a gentle 180 for strain relief using another tie. Then cinched the excess length together around the tongue frame. UGLY!

As far as setup in the truck computer? Was SUPER simple compared to the sticker. I only had to drive straight, then make one left turn 90 degrees and it was DONE. I did a practice backup once into a spot and everything worked great.

I will say, the amount of information when backing up is OVERWHELMING. I used to just have snap on tow mirrors, and my knob. Now I have awesome tow mirrors that clearly show my ground lines, wide view straight back from the truck, and the truck camera reverse view. I still used my mirror on the inner side of the turn mostly, that camera view will take some getting used to...

Here is my setup securing the back up sensor. I zip tie it on the pole jack. I don't really want to use the double side tape method as my camper A frame is not wide enough for the sensor. The sensor still work mounting this way and the backup assist is awesome ?.

 

[NoSnow]

A surge guard is essential if you listen to veteran rv'ers. You plug it into the pedestal FIRST and it will do several checks on how valid the power is so you don't damage your entire rig. You can Google horror stories. My father in law always tells the story of one Campground where his surge guard found the Neutral and ground swapped so he didn't plug in. Then he rewired the pedestal and fixed it for the Campground. Then an hour later a huge class A pulled in and plugged in and fried his rig. Apparently it was not just one site that was bad!

Anyway, it will protect your rig from surges, bad wiring, low voltages, and acts as an extra breaker as well if you screw up internally. Oh, and mine also gives a live reading of the draw on both 50A circuits.

You can get them online or any camping world. I don't need it for subsequent hookups to my truck as this first hookup I didn't yet know if my propower worked. I wanted to protect my trailer the first time though. I will absolutely use it on a campsite pedestal though every time.

This whole thread is absolutely fantastic and the admin must think so as well since you hit the news ?Thanks daemonic

 

[laujoyjoy]

I boondock overnight at a Walmart parking lot yesterday and did a real life test of the generator. Everything work as advertised. Just some reminders to everyone, as the truck needs to be turned on to run the generator. As such, for best practice, you should turn off the radio and climate control before you leave the car running for the night. The last thing you want is have the truck's engine running for the truck AC or heater. I also shut down the infotainment screen and dim down the gauge cluster for any unnecessary attraction. I didn't really use much electricity during the night, just phone charger, portable heater and the camper 12V converter. The engine turned on about three to four time an hour to top off the battery. Each time for about less than 30 seconds. I am surprised how low the running time it was. As I just stay overnight and I didn't unhook the camper, every time the engine turns on, we can feel a little vibration from the truck. But all in all, I am very satisfied and I don't need to upgrade to solar anymore.

 

[daemonic3]

This is a great thread! I am leaning towards getting a XLT 302a Powerboost 7.2kw along with a Grand Design 2250rk, which is 5500 UVW and 7500 GVWR. Seems like they will pair well both on and off grid.

Welcome to the Grand Design family!

 

[daemonic3]

This whole thread is absolutely fantastic and the admin must think so as well since you hit the news ?Thanks daemonic

What do you mean I hit the news? I used my truck for a "truck thing" and hauled a ton of plants from the nursery and have been gardening all day. Just now catching up...

 

[daemonic3]

I boondock overnight at a Walmart parking lot yesterday and did a real life test of the generator. Everything work as advertised. Just some reminders to everyone, as the truck needs to be turned on to run the generator. As such, for best practice, you should turn off the radio and climate control before you leave the car running for the night. The last thing you want is have the truck's engine running for the truck AC or heater. I also shut down the infotainment screen and dim down the gauge cluster for any unnecessary attraction. I didn't really use much electricity during the night, just phone charger, portable heater and the camper 12V converter. The engine turned on about three to four time an hour to top off the battery. Each time for about less than 30 seconds. I am surprised how low the running time it was. As I just stay overnight and I didn't unhook the camper, every time the engine turns on, we can feel a little vibration from the truck. But all in all, I am very satisfied and I don't need to upgrade to solar anymore.

That's interesting you were at minimum or low draw and it turned on a few times per hour! Did you use the app or check the sync screen to see what the steady floor power draw was? Mine was only 100W for what I felt I could do (if fridge was set propane and water heater was set only propane).

We may have a walmart lot in our future too so I'm sure I will be doing this at some point!

 

[NoSnow]

What do you mean I hit the news? I used my truck for a "truck thing" and hauled a ton of plants from the nursery and have been gardening all day. Just now catching up...

The News Tab on this forum. Even a pic of your rig. Sorry I didn’t mean to imply some big news network but I would rather read your thread than hear what they have to say.

 

[daemonic3]

Here is my setup securing the back up sensor. I zip tie it on the pole jack. I don't really want to use the double side tape method as my camper A frame is not wide enough for the sensor. The sensor still work mounting this way and the backup assist is awesome ?.

That's funny, I almost did that!! I was tempted so I could easily remove it once the sticker method was updated, but I wasn't sure the being so close to the the ball would give enough radial motion. I guess it truly is just a gyro to detect twist on the vertical axis. I tried to get it out of sight and failed anyway so I probably should have used the jack stem too, oh well!

 

[daemonic3]

The News Tab on this forum. Even a pic of your rig. Sorry I didn’t mean to imply some big news network but I would rather read your thread than hear what they have to say.

Oh that's funny! I guess I don't even use this forum optimally, I load Forums->New Posts to pick up where I last left off, and just made that my habit.

 

[laujoyjoy]

That's interesting you were at minimum or low draw and it turned on a few times per hour! Did you use the app or check the sync screen to see what the steady floor power draw was? Mine was only 100W for what I felt I could do (if fridge was set propane and water heater was set only propane).

We may have a walmart lot in our future too so I'm sure I will be doing this at some point!

I did use the app and saw it draw around 1700w with heater on and around 100 or 200w with heater off. I will boondock one more time in my return trip and I will check the minimum draw.

 

[pushrods]

Well it was over 90 degrees here in SOCAL today so I thought I would do a little generator testing and used my motorhome. Its a 2000 Southwind with two 12,500BTU A/C's on the roof with a 30 amp 110 line for the Converter and AC power. The AC units have a control so that they won't start at the same time at startup. I plugged the motorhome into the 208 bed outlet via a dogbone to plug the 3 prong RV plug into. The pickup recognized I plugged something in and asked me if I wanted to start the generator. I did and it came up with both A and B phase active. draw was below 100 watts so no indication of current even thou I had lots of lights on in the RV and converter was on a slow charge for the RV batteries. I then powered up both A/C's at the same time and the B phase came up to 1200 watt draw with one AC compressor fired up. After about 30 seconds the second AC unit fired up as the control was doing its job and now both online with only a 1600 watt draw with both AC units on. I then turned on the frig on AC and it came on and stilll only 1900 watts on phase B.. Amazing! I had thought those units would be drawing more current as it cooled the 90 degree interior down pretty quick. With this type of load (2KW) battery lasts about 12 mins then engine runs about 3 mins, and keeps that cycle. 12 off 3 on. That's with eveything in RV running on 110.

 

[daemonic3]

I did use the app and saw it draw around 1700w with heater on and around 100 or 200w with heater off. I will boondock one more time in my return trip and I will check the minimum draw.

Makes sense! I tested my outlets using a hairdryer which consumed 1500W on hot setting, similar to an electric space heater.

So the engine kicked on a few times an hour with the heater running?? I totally missed that part in the original reading!

Yes, a 1.5kW heater cannot last an hour on a 1.5kWh battery. The engine has to kick on when the battery hits the low watermark, the truck will not let it drain fully, it will probably ruin the battery. I think you just proved the truck is working exactly as intended!

I think a LOT of us are curious how long between engine starts does the genny run at the 100-200W floor power. In spring/summer we probably won't need those heaters and will have our fingers crossed that the engine doesn't start overnight.

If my floor power is 100W and I was able to max charge the battery before bedtime, then I *should* get 8 hours at LEAST off a 1500Wh battery before engine starts...

 

[laujoyjoy]

Makes sense! I tested my outlets using a hairdryer which consumed 1500W on hot setting, similar to an electric space heater.

So the engine kicked on a few times an hour with the heater running?? I totally missed that part in the original reading!

Yes, a 1.5kW heater cannot last an hour on a 1.5kWh battery. The engine has to kick on when the battery hits the low watermark, the truck will not let it drain fully, it will probably ruin the battery. I think you just proved the truck is working exactly as intended!

I think a LOT of us are curious how long between engine starts does the genny run at the 100-200W floor power. In spring/summer we probably won't need those heaters and will have our fingers crossed that the engine doesn't start overnight.

If my floor power is 100W and I was able to max charge the battery before bedtime, then I *should* get 8 hours at LEAST off a 1500Wh battery before engine starts...

I didn't have my heater on all night. Even when the heater was off with minimal draw, the engine still kicked on a couple time of the night for a very short time (i.e. less than 30 second). Not sure why, may be to charge up the truck's own 12V battery?.....

 

[daemonic3]

I didn't have my heater on all night. Even when the heater was off with minimal draw, the engine still kicked on a couple time of the night for a very short time (i.e. less than 30 second). Not sure why, may be to charge up the truck's own 12V battery?.....

Oh! Well that's a bummer... And you even turned off the stereo and climate control and lights.

Well keep sharing your findings, this is valuable info for all us wanting to boondock!

One more question: Did you leave the 7-pin plug connected, or strictly the propower?

 

[Jack in Prescott]

For all of you who are now towing - and if you are using a WD Hitch - did you disable your anti-sway control? And what if anything did you notice about sway, for either or both conditions?

Jack

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