Pro Power Onboard Generator 7.2K Powering a Trailer While Driving -- IT WORKS!

[PowerBoostXLT]

Thanks Eric! Great details! I’ve just been using an adaptor thats a male L4-30 to female 30a RV plug. But don’t use it for driving. im pretty sure our fridge uses the power from the 7pin thus not using propane. Now I want to check and be sure lol

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[EricR]

@PowerBoostXLT

We used that same adapter as well - until I finished this install. It works great!

Some of the newer/higher-end RV refrigerators will run on 12 Volts, in addition to the typical 120 Volts & propane. Unfortunately, our is not one of those. ?

-Eric

 

[SouthParkCo2]

I need some guidance on this subject.
The Pro Power generator, be it the 7.2 or 2.4 KW will provide a continuous source
of 12vdc charge to the camper batteries when it's on and powering the camper converter/inverter [I believe] .
And simultaneously, the 7 pin trailer connector is also providing a continuous 12vdc charge to the camper batteries.
Is there any danger to the circuitry of the camper or the F150 or to the batteries themselves when these two sources are active?
Or can they coexist with no side effects what so ever?
Or is there some switching of charging circuitry that happens and protects everything??
Help me Obi Wan ... ?

 

[EricR]

I need some guidance on this subject.
The Pro Power generator, be it the 7.2 or 2.4 KW will provide a continuous source
of 12vdc charge to the camper batteries when it's on and powering the camper converter/inverter [I believe] .
And simultaneously, the 7 pin trailer connector is also providing a continuous 12vdc charge to the camper batteries.
Is there any danger to the circuitry of the camper or the F150 or to the batteries themselves when these two sources are active?
Or can they coexist with no side effects what so ever?
Or is there some switching of charging circuitry that happens and protects everything??
Help me Obi Wan ... ?

The Star Wars reference is REALLY appreciated but I have to start out by saying I am no expert and learning myself.

What you speak of bugged me too, and my plan was to disconnect the 12V wire coming from the 7-pin connector.

Then I received some great feedback over at diysolarforum.com that lead me install a small, separate breakaway battery that mounts on the tongue/frame:

Hopkins 20109 Engager SM Boxed Less Switch​

When installing the breakaway battery, it is wired up to the trailer brakes at the trailer's junction box (shown below). So while doing this I just disconnected the 7-pin 12V wire from inside the junction box and rerouted it to the charge wire of the breakaway battery.

So now our trailer's 7-pin 12V wire is no longer connected to the trailer's 12V system - in any way. Instead, it is only connected the breakaway battery.

AFAIK, if you don't want to add a breakaway battery I don't see why you couldn't just:

• Remove the junction box cover
• disconnect the 7-pin 12V wire from the 12V post
• Put a wire nut on it
• Replace the junction box cover

However, I'm convinced the breakaway battery is a good idea and cheap insurance (currently $35 at Amazon).

It might be helpful to read this thread at diysolarforum for the parts that discuss the breakaway battery. FYI, one of the guys calls it a Ken & Barbie battery. ?

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/please-check-ready-to-start-building-this-design.28587/​

The silver box in this picture is my trailer's junction box. Though newer ones can be rectangular black plastic. It's kind of hard to see in the picture, but the thick cable from the 7-pin routes through that hole in the front frame member to inside the junction box. It's the one with all of the white wires zip-tied to it.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions!

-Eric

PS - Again, I'm no expert so use my advice at your own risk!

 

[SouthParkCo2]

The Star Wars reference is REALLY appreciated but I have to start out by saying I am no expert and learning myself.

What you speak of bugged me too, and my plan was to disconnect the 12V wire coming from the 7-pin connector.

Then I received some great feedback over at diysolarforum.com that lead me install a small, separate breakaway battery that mounts on the tongue/frame:

Hopkins 20109 Engager SM Boxed Less Switch​

When installing the breakaway battery, it is wired up to the trailer brakes at the trailer's junction box (shown below). So while doing this I just disconnected the 7-pin 12V wire from inside the junction box and rerouted it to the charge wire of the breakaway battery.

So now our trailer's 7-pin 12V wire is no longer connected to the trailer's 12V system - in any way. Instead, it is only connected the breakaway battery.

AFAIK, if you don't want to add a breakaway battery I don't see why you couldn't just:

• Remove the junction box cover
• disconnect the 7-pin 12V wire from the 12V post
• Put a wire nut on it
• Replace the junction box cover

However, I'm convinced the breakaway battery is a good idea and cheap insurance (currently $35 at Amazon).

It might be helpful to read this thread at diysolarforum for the parts that discuss the breakaway battery. FYI, one of the guys calls it a Ken & Barbie battery. ?

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/please-check-ready-to-start-building-this-design.28587/​

The silver box in this picture is my trailer's junction box. Though newer ones can be rectangular black plastic. It's kind of hard to see in the picture, but the thick cable from the 7-pin routes through that hole in the front frame member to inside the junction box. It's the one with all of the white wires zip-tied to it.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions!

-Eric

PS - Again, I'm no expert so use my advice at your own risk!

Thanks for the info and input!
It got me to thinking that I could do/try something with a relay
to isolate the truck 7-pin 12vdc when shore power is connected [from whatever source].
I put this wiring diagram together to do just that. And now I'm thinking I
could simplify it some more by grabbing/stealing 12vdc from the camper inverter
[from somewhere] and using it to run the isolation relay..
When the inverter is connected to shore power, the truck 12vdc is disconnected
[in my theoretical system]

I'm thinking a relay like this may do the trick ... https://www.amazon.com/Ehdis-Truck-...50&sprefix=10+guage+relays,aps,87&sr=8-2&th=1

So, if I get it done and it works, I'll post it here ....
If not, I'll slink away like a beaten dog....

 

[EricR]

Thanks for the info and input!
It got me to thinking that I could do/try something with a relay
to isolate the truck 7-pin 12vdc when shore power is connected [from whatever source].
I put this wiring diagram together to do just that. And now I'm thinking I
could simplify it some more by grabbing/stealing 12vdc from the camper inverter
[from somewhere] and using it to run the isolation relay..
When the inverter is connected to shore power, the truck 12vdc is disconnected
[in my theoretical system]

I'm thinking a relay like this may do the trick ... https://www.amazon.com/Ehdis-Truck-Normally-Socket-Automotive/dp/B01KFKEFZA/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3TED744CK9FR2&keywords=12v+relay+10+gauge&qid=1649942650&sprefix=10+guage+relays,aps,87&sr=8-2&th=1

So, if I get it done and it works, I'll post it here ....
If not, I'll slink away like a beaten dog....

Am I wrong to assume you are planning to use Pro Power on Board to power your trailer while driving?

-Eric

 

[SouthParkCo2]

Am I wrong to assume you are planning to use Pro Power on Board to power your trailer while driving?

-Eric

That's my desire/hope. I only have the 2.4KW system [thank you again Ford for f'n up my order].
But our camper is small, a 2016 Starcraft AR-One 16B, so the needs are pretty light.
However, we are taking the Alaska trip from Central Colorado up the Alcan Highway to the Kenai and it's a 3 and 1/2 month round trip, as we have it planned.

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