ProPower not giving 7.2kw output to RV?

[Jamchampnate]

Hello all-

I’ve got the upgraded pro power on my 23 lariat ER. I’ve got a travel trailer with the standard 30a cable. I have an adapter that attaches to the 7.2kw 30a plug in the rear of the truck and then to the trailer 30a cable.

It appears to only allow 3600 watts output and I am not sure why. I don’t have anything else plugged in. The propower screen in the truck shows 3600 max available for each the A and B outlets. Am I missing something?
I tested it and when I get over 3600 watts being used by the trailer it kicks the truck propower breaker.

Thanks in advanced!

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[RickKeen]

RV 30 amp plugs are 120v. 30 amps x 120v is 3600 watts. That is where the limitation is coming from.

The 30 Amp outlet on the Lightning is 240v with two phases and a neutral. So the adapter you are using, by necessity taps into only one of the two phases and the neutral to make the 120v your RV is setup for..

The Lightning's outlet is limited to 30 amps on each phase. You cannot get more than 3600 watts out of a single phase.

Some RV's are wired to be able to plug into a 2-phase 240v circuit with a neutral which allows splitting the 120v loads between the two phases. If your RV could be configured to use 240v 2-phase input, you could adapt that to the Lightning's 240v outlet.

This is commonly referred to as a 50 amp RV plug, but the important part is more about the RV being able to accept 240v being made up of 2 phases. The Lightning would still be limited to only being able to provide 30 amps @ 240v or about 7.2 kW.

 

[PreservedSwine]

On 240V, each of the 3600 W get added together for a total of 7200.

 

[Jamchampnate]

Dang. Ok that makes sense. Anything I could do? While it’s extremely rare we go over 3600 watts for the trailer, it has definitely happened. This time it was AC running, microwave going, and an air fryer going for dinner time.
I ended up just plugging the air fryer into the other rear outlet directly and was all good.

 

[PreservedSwine]

Maybe 240v appliances would even the load- if that’s not an option, you’ll have manage how many things you’re running simultaneously.
FYI: running all those at once is a major campground flex

 

[Jamchampnate]

Maybe 240v appliances would even the load- if that’s not an option, you’ll have manage how many things you’re running simultaneously.
FYI: running all those at once is a major campground flex

Oh for sure. It’s for our offgrid cabin/property. I was mostly just annoyed not understanding why the plug said 7.2kw and I was only getting 3.6kw. Now I get it’s the trailer and not the truck.
As an aside, it’s insane how much this thing can power without dropping an absurd amount. Ran AC and cooking appliances for 2 days and it used about 9 percent total.

 

[SteuLight]

I've noticed that while campgrounds can handle short 'bursts' of electrical need (e.g., think about when the AC turns on while you are running the microwave; there's a very short draw that goes over the 30 amps), the truck cannot.

Your truck can probably handle the same sustained loads that the campground plug can, but if something turns on, the truck will trip a breaker when campgrounds often would not.

 

[RickKeen]

The ultimate fix for the trailer is to have it rewired to take 2-phase 240v input to a 2-phase panel. Make sure the big loads are on differing phases. I.E. the outlet used by the microwave is not on the same phase as the a/c.
The air-fryer is probably 12 amps all by itself.

 

[hturnerfamily]

When you are using the 240v 30amp twist-lock outlet in the bed, with optional 9.6kw ProPower Onboard, you are going to 'get' up to 7.2kw of output, and that's ONLY if you actually have draws on each SIDE of the 240v power, for up to that amount, which is usually unlikely.

When you are using this same outlet, with a 240v to 120v adapter, such as to use for your 30amp CAMPER, you're going to get a MAX output from ONE side of the 240v power, which is 30amps, just like your camper's Main Panel.
You don't need any more than this for your Camper, anyway, as the camper's own 30amp Main Breaker should trip, if you do, if not the truck, itself.

Now, why does the truck's breaker TRIP before your camper's own panel? Well, that may be due to the nature of the truck being more 'sensitive' to loads approaching/at the 30amp MAX limit - since it's internal breaker is not the typical breaker, like the one in your CAMPER, but more of a 'digital' breaker. A camper's breaker, or a campground's 30amp breaker, might not immediately trip when a quick amount of power exceeds 30amps, but the truck's will.

Interestingly, too, as some of us have tested, the 120v outlets in the bed of the truck, fed off the same 240v INVERTER, also have a MAXIMUM of 30amps of output, even though these are typical 15/20amp outlets. Since the inverter provides power up to 30 amps, the outlets can draw that much if enough things are plugged into it, OR if you use one of these outlets instead of the 240v outlet for your CAMPER. This is what I do.
Now, it's RARE to get close to, or over, 30amps with your camper, but you've obviously seen how it can happen. It's generally when the roof air conditioner's compressor is running, and suddenly some other LARGE draw, such as the microwave, is turned on, along with the other devices that are already in play: Fridge(120v), Heater/Toaster/CoffeeMaker/Skillet/AirFryer, Elec water heater, and even your DC CONVERTER, which is typically built within the Main Panel, itself.

Another note: as a long time motorhome/travel trailer owner and traveler, I upgraded my own 20' Camper from 30amp to 240v 50amp, just like most large motorhomes. It gives me not only the ability to plug into a campground's 50amp 240v outlet, which don't typically nuisance trip near as often as many 30amp outlets do, but it gives me the extra ability to also use the truck's 240v outlet, and never worry about exceeding the original camper's 30amp maximum... now I don't need to 'worry' or concern myself about all the things that are happening, all at once, and especially since I am mostly ALL Electric with my camping - Electric water heater, 120v Fridge, and even using 120v heaters in the fall/winter month instead of the propane furnace.
As a bonus, I also wired into the camper's storage area a 240v Outlet that my truck can plug into for charging, while the camper, itself, is plugged into the campground's 50amp outlet.
It works perfectly, and there's only need for the single 50amp outlet at the campground, instead of using the 50amp for the truck, and limiting the camper to the 30amp outlet.

 

[Jamchampnate]

When you are using the 240v 30amp twist-lock outlet in the bed, with optional 9.6kw ProPower Onboard, you are going to 'get' up to 7.2kw of output, and that's ONLY if you actually have draws on each SIDE of the 240v power, for up to that amount, which is usually unlikely.

When you are using this same outlet, with a 240v to 120v adapter, such as to use for your 30amp CAMPER, you're going to get a MAX output from ONE side of the 240v power, which is 30amps, just like your camper's Main Panel.
You don't need any more than this for your Camper, anyway, as the camper's own 30amp Main Breaker should trip, if you do, if not the truck, itself.

Now, why does the truck's breaker TRIP before your camper's own panel? Well, that may be due to the nature of the truck being more 'sensitive' to loads approaching/at the 30amp MAX limit - since it's internal breaker is not the typical breaker, like the one in your CAMPER, but more of a 'digital' breaker. A camper's breaker, or a campground's 30amp breaker, might not immediately trip when a quick amount of power exceeds 30amps, but the truck's will.

Interestingly, too, as some of us have tested, the 120v outlets in the bed of the truck, fed off the same 240v INVERTER, also have a MAXIMUM of 30amps of output, even though these are typical 15/20amp outlets. Since the inverter provides power up to 30 amps, the outlets can draw that much if enough things are plugged into it, OR if you use one of these outlets instead of the 240v outlet for your CAMPER. This is what I do.
Now, it's RARE to get close to, or over, 30amps with your camper, but you've obviously seen how it can happen. It's generally when the roof air conditioner's compressor is running, and suddenly some other LARGE draw, such as the microwave, is turned on, along with the other devices that are already in play: Fridge(120v), Heater/Toaster/CoffeeMaker/Skillet/AirFryer, Elec water heater, and even your DC CONVERTER, which is typically built within the Main Panel, itself.

Another note: as a long time motorhome/travel trailer owner and traveler, I upgraded my own 20' Camper from 30amp to 240v 50amp, just like most large motorhomes. It gives me not only the ability to plug into a campground's 50amp 240v outlet, which don't typically nuisance trip near as often as many 30amp outlets do, but it gives me the extra ability to also use the truck's 240v outlet, and never worry about exceeding the original camper's 30amp maximum... now I don't need to 'worry' or concern myself about all the things that are happening, all at once, and especially since I am mostly ALL Electric with my camping - Electric water heater, 120v Fridge, and even using 120v heaters in the fall/winter month instead of the propane furnace.
As a bonus, I also wired into the camper's storage area a 240v Outlet that my truck can plug into for charging, while the camper, itself, is plugged into the campground's 50amp outlet.
It works perfectly, and there's only need for the single 50amp outlet at the campground, instead of using the 50amp for the truck, and limiting the camper to the 30amp outlet.

thanks!!!! Incredibly informative and helpful. Really appreciate it. I hope others find this thread as well.

 

[hturnerfamily]

coming from the RVing world, with a massive Fifth-wheel 50amp, later a Gas Motorhome 50amp, and later a Diesel pusher motorhome 50amp, and now a 'trailer' Camper 30amp(modified to 50amp 240v)... I've seen a LOT of electrical situations in many years of traveling this country, CANADA provinces, AND even Alaska, in an RV or Camper. We drove the diesel pusher to Alaska, which is MOSTLY Canada(!), and saw many, many 'versions' of campground power - some just extension cords coming out of the ground... and others, like the 'incorrect' 30amp outlet made for dryers, not 120v RVs(!)... etc.

240v power is simply combining TWO 120v hot wires, although, technically, they have to be on opposite sides of the incoming Main Panel from the Utility(some call this 'out of phase' or 'opposite phases')... we've even used two different 30amp campground outlets(with a special 'Y' adapter) to create our own 240v power to our large motorhome, when parked there for weeks or months.

The LIGHTNING's ProPower inverters are just like the inverters on many larger motorhomes and fifth-wheels - they produce power from DC, or BATTERIES, into AC power. The truck's front inverter is a smaller 2.4kw output 120v type. It provides power to the cab and frunk outlets, at a total maximum of 20amps, whether from a single outlet, or a combination of some or all outlets. This also includes the single set of bed outlets for trucks without the optional 9.6kw inverter.

The truck's REAR Inverter, for 7.2kw of power, is a much larger and more powerful 240v inverter, creating not only 240v to the 30amp twist-lock outlet, but SPLITTING that power to the 'A' and 'B' set of 120v outlets in the bed. Each 120v set of outlets can provide 30amps of power, even though they are labeled as 20amp(probably because the 'off the shelf' outlets and covers are already labeled that way)... there is no way to make these less than 30amps since the 'breaker' on each of the 240v Inverter hot wires is already 30amp.

While the rear 20amp outlets are not labeled as 30amp, and are not the typical 30amp outlet you might expect, testing has shown that they can provide 30amps ... although it's doubtful that anyone would ever require that much from these.

 

[Adventureboy]

Dang. Ok that makes sense. Anything I could do? While it’s extremely rare we go over 3600 watts for the trailer, it has definitely happened. This time it was AC running, microwave going, and an air fryer going for dinner time.
I ended up just plugging the air fryer into the other rear outlet directly and was all good.

If you are running a single 120v line to the trailer with an L14-30P to TT30R adapter, you should not exceed 3600 watts (30A). That is all your trailer wiring is rated for. The only way to increase this would be to rewire your trailer for 240v and split your appliances across the two 120v phases. I expect this would be more work than it is worth.
Running the air fryer on the opposite phase outlet on the truck will work provided you know which outlet is on the opposite phase to the TT30 adapter. If you hit the same 120v phase, it will still kick out.

 

[Jodokk]

When you are using the 240v 30amp twist-lock outlet in the bed, with optional 9.6kw ProPower Onboard, you are going to 'get' up to 7.2kw of output, and that's ONLY if you actually have draws on each SIDE of the 240v power, for up to that amount, which is usually unlikely.

When you are using this same outlet, with a 240v to 120v adapter, such as to use for your 30amp CAMPER, you're going to get a MAX output from ONE side of the 240v power, which is 30amps, just like your camper's Main Panel.
You don't need any more than this for your Camper, anyway, as the camper's own 30amp Main Breaker should trip, if you do, if not the truck, itself.

Now, why does the truck's breaker TRIP before your camper's own panel? Well, that may be due to the nature of the truck being more 'sensitive' to loads approaching/at the 30amp MAX limit - since it's internal breaker is not the typical breaker, like the one in your CAMPER, but more of a 'digital' breaker. A camper's breaker, or a campground's 30amp breaker, might not immediately trip when a quick amount of power exceeds 30amps, but the truck's will.

Interestingly, too, as some of us have tested, the 120v outlets in the bed of the truck, fed off the same 240v INVERTER, also have a MAXIMUM of 30amps of output, even though these are typical 15/20amp outlets. Since the inverter provides power up to 30 amps, the outlets can draw that much if enough things are plugged into it, OR if you use one of these outlets instead of the 240v outlet for your CAMPER. This is what I do.
Now, it's RARE to get close to, or over, 30amps with your camper, but you've obviously seen how it can happen. It's generally when the roof air conditioner's compressor is running, and suddenly some other LARGE draw, such as the microwave, is turned on, along with the other devices that are already in play: Fridge(120v), Heater/Toaster/CoffeeMaker/Skillet/AirFryer, Elec water heater, and even your DC CONVERTER, which is typically built within the Main Panel, itself.

Another note: as a long time motorhome/travel trailer owner and traveler, I upgraded my own 20' Camper from 30amp to 240v 50amp, just like most large motorhomes. It gives me not only the ability to plug into a campground's 50amp 240v outlet, which don't typically nuisance trip near as often as many 30amp outlets do, but it gives me the extra ability to also use the truck's 240v outlet, and never worry about exceeding the original camper's 30amp maximum... now I don't need to 'worry' or concern myself about all the things that are happening, all at once, and especially since I am mostly ALL Electric with my camping - Electric water heater, 120v Fridge, and even using 120v heaters in the fall/winter month instead of the propane furnace.
As a bonus, I also wired into the camper's storage area a 240v Outlet that my truck can plug into for charging, while the camper, itself, is plugged into the campground's 50amp outlet.
It works perfectly, and there's only need for the single 50amp outlet at the campground, instead of using the 50amp for the truck, and limiting the camper to the 30amp outlet.

I had been trying to sus-out a way to bypass the newer (in my view, pointless) rules about not "charging your EV" as you camp. Nice workaround with no conflict or damage.

 

[hturnerfamily]

I've camped a LOT, whether at RV Parks or Campgrounds or State Parks or anywhere... I've NEVER seen any reference or negative statements about any 'EV charging'...

there's been parks and campgrounds that I've seen try to limit running electric heaters in the winter, rather than your own propane, and even some limit the running of 'both' roof air conditioners at the same time... although I'll bet that either are very difficult, if not impossible, to regulate. I've never seen park personnel ride around 'watching' for these offenses.

My take on my own DIY project was to limit the need to have TWO outlets in use at the same time, at the power pedestal, or having to have my truck close enough to the pedestal to reach - using the front storage of the camper for an outlet makes this so much more convenient.

 

[Danface]

Not sure if something like these would help

https://www.homedepot.com/p/parkwor...30R-Receptacle-Y-Adapter-Cord-60462/316430622

https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORK...onnectors-Adapter-Cord-L1430F520-05/305439340

Each splits the 240 into 120 volt legs with varying aperages

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