Stick to Rotary Shift Knob Conversion w/ 3D Printed Rotary Shifter Holder

[BennyTheBeaver]

I saw this today - if you dont like the style of the shifter knob - doing it in black TPU should make it similar to the bronco sport style. This one is advertised as being for a Maverick.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5936487

I like the positioning of the Parking Brake! I wonder how hard it would be to reroute that wire...

 

[ScubaSteve_TheReal]

I’ve been using this one for the volume knob and love it for the last couple of years.
Amazon
BestEvMod for F-150 Lightning... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHDW266Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I’m waiting for a suitable one to fit my shifter now. So far no bueno they all have been too big.

 

[ScubaSteve_TheReal]

I’ve already received and tried two different orders of ones that the knob covers do not fit unfortunately. I have the shifter from the OP that is $30 and has the M button. The FORD LX6P-7P155

Maverick one is too big,
Bronco Sport one is too big

 

[JvdMaat]

I like the positioning of the Parking Brake! I wonder how hard it would be to reroute that wire...

I'm assuming that is part of the block of pins for the shift module. You just have to tie in to the correct pin. Maybe take apart a Maverick to see how the wiring goes?
On my car (Honda Insight), in addition to the buttons for PRND, a pull lever for the park brake, I also have the break hold button (much easier to quickly enable/disable when in a drive-through for example, cause I hate it in normal driving, but sometimes it's helpful to enable for a few minutes). Wish we could have that as an easier button.

 

[ENDianDigital]

I like the positioning of the Parking Brake! I wonder how hard it would be to reroute that wire...

I saw this the other day and I really like it as well. I think integrating this into the console might be my next Lightning project. I'd like to retain the factory location but build in an extension switch as well. Not sure when I'll get to it, but I'm always engaging the ebrake and this would make it so much nicer.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

I saw this the other day and I really like it as well. I think integrating this into the console might be my next Lightning project. I'd like to retain the factory location but build in an extension switch as well. Not sure when I'll get to it, but I'm always engaging the ebrake and this would make it so much nicer.

Keep us posted on the progress. I'd imagine the 3D model would need to change too.

I've been debating doing this project. Unfortunately my 3D printers build plate is too small to print is as a single piece.

 

[Legacy23]

I've tried printing this 3 times with my P1S and it failed ~8hrs in every time.

Anyone with a printer that works willing to print this for me? I'll pay of course.

Thanks!

 

[boggle]

I designed this version and I'm happy to answer any questions anyone might have!

What was this designed in? Trying to simplify the tub to make it easier to print for those of us with smaller build volumes. The .STEP is being imported as a multibody part causing some surfacing issues in SW (tub and shiftbox separate). Trying not to flatten it to preserve geometry.

 

[ENDianDigital]

What was this designed in? Trying to simplify the tub to make it easier to print for those of us with smaller build volumes. The .STEP is being imported as a multibody part causing some surfacing issues in SW (tub and shiftbox separate). Trying not to flatten it to preserve geometry.

Fusion 360. I may have published those before I combined the bodies... Dangit. I can try to re-up tomorrow. Sorry about that.

 

[boggle]

Fusion 360. I may have published those before I combined the bodies... Dangit. I can try to re-up tomorrow. Sorry about that.

Not a problem, appreciate you posting the files to begin with. I could merge on my end as well, was just trying to strip down as much as possible so I could look at efficient split options that minimize support structures. Difficult with a shell with numerous draft angles.

 

[sstevetx]

Finally got the main part printed on my Bambu P1S with Sunlu ASA. First 2 attempts failed near the end with the model falling over. I got the temperatures dialed in better and added a lot more supports on the 3rd attempt. I'm currently printing out the flat lid.

 

[Legacy23]

Finally got the main part printed on my Bambu P1S with Sunlu ASA. First 2 attempts failed near the end with the model falling over. I got the temperatures dialed in better and added a lot more supports on the 3rd attempt. I'm currently printing out the flat lid.

Is it possible to share the file with your print settings for me to try? After mine failing toward the end a few times I'm ready to give up.

 

[sstevetx]

Is it possible to share the file with your print settings for me to try? After mine failing toward the end a few times I'm ready to give up.

I use BambuStudio and I picked generic ASA for the Sunlu ASA. I modified the "Generic ASA" filament settings, but you may want to look for suggested settings for whatever brand you use.
Flow Ratio 0.92
Nozzle temperature 260 initial / 260 other layers
Textured PEI Plate 92 / 92

For supports I picked tree/auto and set the threshold angle to 39. That put a ton of supports and really increased the print time (18 hours).

A big part of my earlier failures was using the default temperatures in the Generic ASA profile. I had bad bed adhesion, so the model would get shaky as it got near the end. I am not sure how many supports you really need, but these settings worked for me.

 

[Legacy23]

I use BambuStudio and I picked generic ASA for the Sunlu ASA. I modified the "Generic ASA" filament settings, but you may want to look for suggested settings for whatever brand you use.
Flow Ratio 0.92
Nozzle temperature 260 initial / 260 other layers
Textured PEI Plate 92 / 92

For supports I picked tree/auto and set the threshold angle to 39. That put a ton of supports and really increased the print time (18 hours).

A big part of my earlier failures was using the default temperatures in the Generic ASA profile. I had bad bed adhesion, so the model would get shaky as it got near the end. I am not sure how many supports you really need, but these settings worked for me.

Great, thank you!

 

[ENDianDigital]

I see a few people having print issues, and I might not be the best to help since I have a large build volume with an enclosed chamber (K1 Max), but a few suggestions in case they help:

1) I always try to follow the processes in this guide when I'm dialing in a new filament: . Differences in your ambient atmosphere can make printers and materials behave differently, so I like to use this guide to tune everything to my personal environment.

2) I see people selecting some pretty high-temp materials (ABS/ASA) which I do think is the best choice from a part longevity standpoint, but PETG is more forgiving in my experience and still decently durable (I actually think that's what the guy selling his version on Facebook is using). Might be worth a shot if you're continually running in to failures.

I might be one of the least knowledgable people in this thread with regards to 3D printing, so take what I say with a grain of salt, but I just wanted to share my thoughts in case it helps (especially the part about dialing in your materials specifically to your environment). Good luck!

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