Stick to Rotary Shift Knob Conversion w/ 3D Printed Rotary Shifter Holder

[2wheeltraveler]

Anyone else having issues with the thingiverse print where the lid isn't resting fully flat, and rocks just a tiny bit under pressure? I've noticed is some pics here that there is a gap between it and the edge similar to mine... If I push it down it tightens up. The ears are fully shaved and sanded flat on the shifter and nothing else appears to be in the way, the shifter is sitting perfectly flat on the bottom.

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[cwstnsko]

Anyone else having issues with the thingiverse print where the lid isn't resting fully flat, and rocks just a tiny bit under pressure? I've noticed is some pics here that there is a gap between it and the edge similar to mine... If I push it down it tightens up. The ears are fully shaved and sanded flat on the shifter and nothing else appears to be in the way, the shifter is sitting perfectly flat on the bottom.

I printed the "flat" version, so I could get bed texture on the top surface. The way you describe the fit is the way mine fits, but I haven't added the magnets that the part is designed to use to hold it in place. The fit is acceptable to me, but not as precise as I'd hoped for.

I think I'll print the 2 other lid styles and see which one I like best

 

[2wheeltraveler]

I printed the "flat" version, so I could get bed texture on the top surface. The way you describe the fit is the way mine fits, but I haven't added the magnets that the part is designed to use to hold it in place. The fit is acceptable to me, but not as precise as I'd hoped for.

I think I'll print the 2 other lid styles and see which one I like best

thank you, I printed the same one. It’s very close and I can certainly live with it.

 

[Drayday55]

Anyone else having issues with the thingiverse print where the lid isn't resting fully flat, and rocks just a tiny bit under pressure? I've noticed is some pics here that there is a gap between it and the edge similar to mine... If I push it down it tightens up. The ears are fully shaved and sanded flat on the shifter and nothing else appears to be in the way, the shifter is sitting perfectly flat on the bottom.

You need to chamfer the under side. Use a chamfer tool and it's easy. ( you gotta scrape off some material as it rocks on the rounded slope of the shifter. Here in the picture you can see i shaved it down.

 

[asianman35]

I think I figured out a good solution to the magsafe issue. I am using the magsafe version of the print, but my phone is too big to work with a case on it, and its not a large phone by todays standard. So first I bought one of these to hold the magsafe puck, i wanted to make sure the back was solid, and not just a hole the puck fits into:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VHZRQ8G

I then thought of using some adhesive to stick it to the current magsafe plastic, but no adhesive really worked well on the silicone. So i used 2 really small screws to screw through the silicone holder and into the meaty parts of the magsafe holder built into the plastic housing. Now its on there nice and strong. Its up high enough for my phone and my wifes gigantic phone too.

 

[cwstnsko]

I've now printed both the basic shifter box configuration and the Big Cupholder version on my P1S using Black BambuLab PETG-HF.
The basic shifter box fits great, but the Big Cupholder version did require some moderate carving of the console structure to make space for the cup holder bucket. It was not major, I just figured I'd give others a heads up, in case they are squeamish about this sort of tweaking. Once you get it to fit on the P1S/X1 build plate and get a rational amout of support, If you want to just start the print and walk away, then I would suggest you print it on Silent Speed (50%) at faster speeds there were a few areas where the geometry wanted to curl off the supports, if you ddn't slow down

 

[2wheeltraveler]

You need to chamfer the under side. Use a chamfer tool and it's easy. ( you gotta scrape off some material as it rocks on the rounded slope of the shifter. Here in the picture you can see i shaved it down.

Since I used infill I wasn't able to chamfer this enough to make a difference (and not screw it up) which led me to widening the hole as an experiment by about 1mm and that flattened it out perfectly. I'm going to take the step file and modify it with the chamfer and slightly larger hole so it sits perfectly flat and engages with the magnets.

For someone even more skilled on the design side, it would be cool to resize the hole and integrate a TPU gasket to further tighten the gap and resist dust/debris

And one step further, holes all the way through the cubby that enables you to run a bolt into the lid to really clamp it all down.

 

[21st Century Truck]

Yesterday I installed a Ford Mustang Mach E rotary shifter in my Lightning. Thanks to Asianman35 for the 3D printed cubby with the bonus MagSafe holder.

Mach E rotary shifter part #: LJ9Z-7P155-D 1X from FordPartsGiant.com.

I chose the Mach E shifter because of the 5Spurs.com crown I can add. I had these 5 Spurs crowns on my old Mach E and really like the tactile feel and heft better than the OEM silver plastic ring's feel.

Here's the look:

...and the height in the 3D printed new enclosure:

I tested and then drove for the day with the Mach E shifter. The basic functionality is there, BUT there are three secondary issues:

1. The Auto Hold function doesn't work. The Auto Hold Sync slider button is grayed out and refuses to turn the function on.

2. The Parking Brake automatic release doesn't release when starting to drive, either forward or in reverse. To release the Parking Brake, I have to manually disengage the Park lever on the front dash.

3. The 30-minute Neutral for roll-towing doesn't work with this shifter's L button. No L light, no Neutral gear.

Of note, the normal Neutral function does engage, as does the Park Brake function when shutting the truck off while in Drive.

Additionally, the Mach E rotary shifter has a rectangular protrusion on its bottom. It's easily leveled out with some thin hard foam or similar shimming. I used some leftover Dynamat sheets and the bottom leveled out with three such Dynamat layers. See these 2 pics:

The horizontal dimensions of the Mach E shifter box fit exactly within the 3D printed shifter cubby, courtesy of fellow member Asianman35 (thanks again, Asianman35!)

So I have two questions for the readers:

1. Does / did anyone run into the Auto Hold / Parking Brake / Neutral + 30 functionality issues with any Ford rotary shifter? ...and if so, did anyone figure out an FDRS or ForScan solution? a module recalibration or reset, perhaps?

2. In case I have to switch to another Ford rotary shifter, could members here please respond with the horizontal measurement across the top outer knurled edges of their now-installed and fully functioning Bronco / Escape / xxx rotary shifter? I'll greatly appreciate this info in advance because I want to keep the (pre-tariff haha) 5 Spurs British aluminum crown for any shifter I do install, even if I have to McGyver how to mount the 5 Spurs crown.

 

[digitaldad]

1. The Auto Hold function doesn't work. The Auto Hold Sync slider button is grayed out and refuses to turn the function on.

2. The Parking Brake automatic release doesn't release when starting to drive, either forward or in reverse. To release the Parking Brake, I have to manually disengage the Park lever on the front dash.

3. The 30-minute Neutral for roll-towing doesn't work with this shifter's L button. No L light, no Neutral gear.

1. I bought the original OP's Bronco sport from the eBay link they provided. My auto-hold button stays engaged.

2. My parking brake does disengage, semi-automatically. I always used the manual release on my end as I have a steep driveway and didn't know it even auto-disengages. By accelerating a bit then applying brakes, the parking switch auto-disengaged.

3. When putting in neutral, an alert came onto my front mini-display and stated to push the button in for 30-minutes of neutral. I tried it and it worked.

I did not do any FORScan programming after changing to rotary shifter.

Drayday55 provided some measurements on the earlier page....hope this helps.

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...inted-rotary-shifter-holder.25541/post-498199

 

[ZheWiz]

1. The Auto Hold function doesn't work. The Auto Hold Sync slider button is grayed out and refuses to turn the function on.

2. The Parking Brake automatic release doesn't release when starting to drive, either forward or in reverse. To release the Parking Brake, I have to manually disengage the Park lever on the front dash.

3. The 30-minute Neutral for roll-towing doesn't work with this shifter's L button. No L light, no Neutral gear.

I experienced none of these issues. I used the $30 shifter posted previously in this thread on eBay. Everything works as expected. No ForScan, no nothing. Just plug-n-play.

 

[21st Century Truck]

I experienced none of these issues. I used the $30 shifter posted previously in this thread on eBay. Everything works as expected. No ForScan, no nothing. Just plug-n-play.

Yeah I'm sure the mechanisms inside are fairly similar. I notice there is a flashing port on the bottom of my shifter (visible in one of my pics above). My guess is that Ford flashes appropriate firmware onto the ROM based on the destination vehicle platform.

 

[21st Century Truck]

1. I bought the original OP's Bronco sport from the eBay link they provided. My auto-hold button stays engaged.

2. My parking brake does disengage, semi-automatically. I always used the manual release on my end as I have a steep driveway and didn't know it even auto-disengages. By accelerating a bit then applying brakes, the parking switch auto-disengaged.

3. When putting in neutral, an alert came onto my front mini-display and stated to push the button in for 30-minutes of neutral. I tried it and it worked.

I did not do any FORScan programming after changing to rotary shifter.

Drayday55 provided some measurements on the earlier page....hope this helps.

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...inted-rotary-shifter-holder.25541/post-498199

I appreciate the link to the earlier post. I was aware of that good post... unfortunately, it doesn't give the one measurement I'm after, the diameter across the top crown bezel.

Anyone who can post their rotary shifter's crown bezel diameter, I'll appreciate it. I'll also make a trip to the Ford dealer to see what I can measure on Broncos and Escapes. I'm sure the salespeople will have a field day with me

 

[boggle]

I appreciate the link to the earlier post. I was aware of that good post... unfortunately, it doesn't give the one measurement I'm after, the diameter across the top crown bezel.

Anyone who can post their rotary shifter's crown bezel diameter, I'll appreciate it. I'll also make a trip to the Ford dealer to see what I can measure on Broncos and Escapes. I'm sure the salespeople will have a field day with me

Is this what you mean by bezel? This is from the LX6P-7P155-EE. I have the whole shifter modeled, I can provide the .step shortly.

 

[mr.Magoo]

I have the whole shifter modeled, I can provide the .step shortly.

Yes please and thank you!

 

[boggle]

Yes please and thank you!

Attached.

Still working on the OEM tub model as well (ML3Z-1513530-AA), it's 99.9% there, trying to tune as I work on the press fit of the insert. Sorry for the delay, been super busy. Will share all when I'm happy with it.

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