2021+ F-150 FORScan List / Database / Spreadsheet ?

[Livnitup]

I've added the mappings from 720-11-01 thru 720-14-02 into the IPC spreadsheet for anyone interested

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[Zyvin]

I disabled mine for that exact reason.

The dimming mirrors are self contained and not controlled by the module, so there is nothing in forscan to adjust. The rear view mirror has a front and rear light sensor. The rear view controls the side mirror. Another member reported that the IR sensors used for Blue Cruise appeared to be the cause of it going full dark and staying there. At some point I plan to test a small piece of IR blocking tint over the rear light sensor to see if that makes it operate correctly. I have tinted windows so just having it disabled has worked out fine thus far.

To disable, just disconnect the plug on the back of the rear view mirror. You can partially reinsert the plug, not enough to snap in and make an electrical connection, and avoid any loose hanging wires.

that’s crazy. The IR for blue cruise is emitting constantly? Anyway here are the wires involved.

 

[ROBB1]

that’s crazy. The IR for blue cruise is emitting constantly? Anyway here are the wires involved.

Those sensors are defiantly active all of the time. You can catch them with your phone camera.

To be fair I have not personally tested the connection between the sensors and the crappy operation of the auto dimming mirror. It was claimed that taping over the IR sensor resulted in the mirrors operating more as you would expect and properly varying the amount of “dimming”. Obviously taping over the sensor is not a viable long term option if you want to use blue cruise. I would like to try some IR blocking film on the mirrors sensor whenever I get around to it.

 

[dben18]

Got truck back from dealer this afternoon. Gear box module fixed. Wrench light successfully off of dash and ford app. Dealer also did recall on underneath heat shield. Glad it was all under warranty. Don’t know if I’m going to try forscan again… nervous to jump back in and begin from scratch, even for a simple Bambi mode or disable double honk. Still afraid that is what caused the malfunction / reduced power wrench light to come up in first place…. Any suggestions , comments?

 

[Zyvin]

Got truck back from dealer this afternoon. Gear box module fixed. Wrench light successfully off of dash and ford app. Dealer also did recall on underneath heat shield. Glad it was all under warranty. Don’t know if I’m going to try forscan again… nervous to jump back in and begin from scratch, even for a simple Bambi mode or disable double honk. Still afraid that is what caused the malfunction / reduced power wrench light to come up in first place…. Any suggestions , comments?

I wouldn’t sweat it. I’d wager those are DTCs that occurred when you had the level installed or (did it yourself?). The acm DTCs are the aftermarket audio. Those DTCs are logged to help troubleshoot. That is why Livnitup said to clear them and see if they return. If they return, then you have an issue. I doubt the dealer worked any magic, they probably reset a few modules and cleared the codes.

 

[dben18]

I wouldn’t sweat it. I’d wager those are DTCs that occurred when you had the level installed or (did it yourself?). The acm DTCs are the aftermarket audio. Those DTCs are logged to help troubleshoot. That is why Livnitup said to clear them and see if they return. If they return, then you have an issue. I doubt the dealer worked any magic, they probably reset a few modules and cleared the codes.

I had level and tires installed from a local mechanic shop that does them fairly often. You may be correct, however it was just ironic how the wrench light came on the same night I first ever tried FORScan. Totally possible I somehow messed up, but I took it very slowly and carefully... At any rate. It seems fixed, and I'm happy again. I could not clear the light myself, even after resetting every single module to original, clearing DTCs, and going for a drive, etc. So whatever they did, has worked... for now.

When resetting the dtcs and going for the drive, then plugging back into forscan - the audio dtcs did clear. I haven't checked since then to see if they are still cleared. My question is - what is the "issue" if the audio dtcs do come back? Why is this an issue, or why should I be concerned about this? The aftermarket radio company that installed it did a great job - and I'm not sure how you would more so properly, professionally tie this in without throwing a "open circuit" ??

I have a long drive tomorrow to NY, about 850 miles. Then coming back from NY - Curious to see if this light pops back up at any point on this trip. The light didn't come up on trip home from the dealer, about a 30 min drive, which is a starting point after reading on other forums that people have left the dealer only for the light to return almost 15 min or less afterwards. I will update later on my status.

 

[Zyvin]

I had level and tires installed from a local mechanic shop that does them fairly often. You may be correct, however it was just ironic how the wrench light came on the same night I first ever tried FORScan. Totally possible I somehow messed up, but I took it very slowly and carefully... At any rate. It seems fixed, and I'm happy again. I could not clear the light myself, even after resetting every single module to original, clearing DTCs, and going for a drive, etc. So whatever they did, has worked... for now.

When resetting the dtcs and going for the drive, then plugging back into forscan - the audio dtcs did clear. I haven't checked since then to see if they are still cleared. My question is - what is the "issue" if the audio dtcs do come back? Why is this an issue, or why should I be concerned about this? The aftermarket radio company that installed it did a great job - and I'm not sure how you would more so properly, professionally tie this in without throwing a "open circuit" ??

I have a long drive tomorrow to NY, about 850 miles. Then coming back from NY - Curious to see if this light pops back up at any point on this trip. The light didn't come up on trip home from the dealer, about a 30 min drive, which is a starting point after reading on other forums that people have left the dealer only for the light to return almost 15 min or less afterwards. I will update later on my status.

No don’t worry about the open circuit. What happens is that the truck expects to see resistance on a speaker output but it doesn’t. The wires are now going to an amp that has little to no resistance vs the factory speaker so the system thinks there is an open circuit. They didn’t do anything wrong.

 

[dben18]

No don’t worry about the open circuit. What happens is that the truck expects to see resistance on a speaker output but it doesn’t. The wires are now going to an amp that has little to no resistance vs the factory speaker so the system thinks there is an open circuit. They didn’t do anything wrong.

Ok yes, that's what I thought too, and agree with you. I will most likely give forscan another shot after my trip. When doing so - I'm going to plug in and see if any dtcs come up at all. Super curious. Wonder what the front sensor blocked was all about. @Livnitup had mentioned that wasn't normal run of the mill dtcs - at least, I believe this is the one he was referring to not be normal, along with the body control module (?)

Again, at any rate - do you think I should be clear to try or - should I try forscan again, (I know its up to my ultimately) but do you have any advice/recommendations when performing say "bambi mode". How should I go about enabling that - as in - should I enable that, safely stop program, unplug device, go for test drive. come back. repeat. individually. instead of - bambi mode, then right into disable double honk, disable back up alert, autostart/stop disable (this is the other one i thought may been culprit to possibly throw wrench light). Like should I not do mod, after mod, after mod. Should I be doing one a night. One after a short drive.... sorry for so many details and questions. Thanks again for help everyone.

Lastly, no response to maybe the jump start of the truck after battery being drained and low - could that of caused my wrench light to somehow come up?? what caused this to come up - I'm really curious of anyone's input with that.

 

[DT444T]

Those sensors are defiantly active all of the time. You can catch them with your phone camera.

To be fair I have not personally tested the connection between the sensors and the crappy operation of the auto dimming mirror. It was claimed that taping over the IR sensor resulted in the mirrors operating more as you would expect and properly varying the amount of “dimming”. Obviously taping over the sensor is not a viable long term option if you want to use blue cruise. I would like to try some IR blocking film on the mirrors sensor whenever I get around to it.

Kinda off topic, but do BOTH of your side-mirrors auto dim? Because only my passenger side does. My driver does not.

 

[ROBB1]

Kinda off topic, but do BOTH of your side-mirrors auto dim? Because only my passenger side does. My driver does not.

Only one but it should be just the drivers side. The wiring diagram shows only the LH as well. That is curious if you have a dimming passenger mirror.

 

[Ruffiano99]

So I havent tried putting IR blocking film over the rear view light sensor yet. But the issue is 100% caused by the BlueCruise Infrared sensors on the dash and A pillar. When the mirrors were dark I placed a hand over both Bluecruise IR sensors to block them and both the Side view and Rear view mirrors turned normal.
Now to figure out where to get a film I can stick on the rear view that is clear and wont make it hard to see out of.

 

[Zyvin]

Only one but it should be just the drivers side. The wiring diagram shows only the LH as well. That is curious if you have a dimming passenger mirror.

I thought the same thing lol. Is it right hand drive? lol

 

[fredoss]

Can someone explain the wigwag line in forscan? What is it for? Can the DLRs be strobed?

https://ultrabrightlightz.com/products/z-flash-bcm-plugin-flasher-for-ford

 

[iceman77]

I definitely think the fix for that is in the HVAC module. I just need to take the time to do some experimentation.

Any luck finding the HVAC recycle air timer ? This is something I am dying for to get fixed. It just deactivates automatically minutes after setting it

 

[ROBB1]

Any luck finding the HVAC recycle air timer ? This is something I am dying for to get fixed. It just deactivates automatically minutes after setting it

I haven’t tested yet, but I think the most likely cause of this issue is “Enhanced Windshield Anti Fogging Strategy”. Ford has a SSM specifically addressing it, effectively saying your HVAC is not broken when it does what it wants vs. what you want, it’s this ”feature” and it’s normal.

If you want to give disabling it a try:
HVAC
733-01-07 xxxx x8xx xx (If OEM is A)

If you have a OEM as-built other than A, reference the spread sheet to find the correct value.


SSM 50015 - 2020-2021 Various Vehicles - Enhanced Windshield Anti Fogging Strategy (EWAFS)

Some 2020-2021 Ford and Lincoln vehicles are equipped with an anti-fogging feature known as enhanced windshield anti fogging strategy (EWAFS). This feature automatically adjusts airflow in the cabin to prevent the windshield from fogging up and may be perceived by customers as irregular climate control functionality. To reduce fogging, the EWAFS functions include: the air condition (A/C) button may turn on and off automatically, recirculated air may turn off automatically in all air modes except MAX A/C, recirculated air may also turn on and off automatically in various airflow modes in order to improve heating or cooling efficiency, and in auto climate control, high humidity conditions may automatically engage A/C compressor, increase blower motor speed and/or direct more air to windshield. Continue to monitor the Workshop Manual (WSM) for EWAFS updates.

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