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luebri

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Yes - the truck uses it. It cannot be externally controlled.
So even if I have preferred charge times set it will draw enough to stay warm in my non preferred times?
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This mornings energy consumption of 2.686 kWh while pre-conditioning from 8:45 to 9:00, (note the cloud server is still on EDT, real current EST was 7:45 to 8:00), I had the MAX Heat switch on as of last shutdown

Note the 18.867 kWh is the final load of charging from last nights cold weather endurance run, I mention in another thread, that was 77% to 90%, it actually finished around 12:35 am early this morning, but the truck does not report to the mothership until the CCS-1 / J-1772 connection is removed.

1668868292528.png
Thanks for this post! …great to know. Best real world gestimate of the power draw of the cabin heat/Climate system I’ve seen to date:

~179.067 W/min. or ~10.744 kWh ; or, ~8.2% of the usable ER battery if I have my math/logic correct🤔
 

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So for “2) Keep your battery plugged in whenever possible.

Is there an ideal amperage to just keep it warm?
I'm also curious about this...this wasn't answered.

What amperage does the truck require to precondition? I can't imagine being plugged into a L1 charger is sufficient...
 

luebri

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I'm also curious about this...this wasn't answered.

What amperage does the truck require to precondition? I can't imagine being plugged into a L1 charger is sufficient...
Is what they are talking about regarding leaving it plugged in, even considered full preconditioning like when you schedule a departure time or is it a lower level “maintenance” heat that Just maintains a certain healthy temp?
 

BennyTheBeaver

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Is what they are talking about regarding leaving it plugged in, even considered full preconditioning like when you schedule a departure time or is it a lower level “maintenance” heat that Just maintains a certain healthy temp?
Preconditioning when left plugged in. The battery can precondition itself but that uses some if the battery's charge.

I was under the understanding that if there is too little amperage from the charger during preconditioning...it will use some of the battery. I'm curious what Amperage is needed so that it will precondition without affecting the full charge state of the battery?
 

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So for “2) Keep your battery plugged in whenever possible.

Is there an ideal amperage to just keep it warm?
This leads me to a another tangential question…
so I’m struggling with the etiquette of using a Tesla destination charger at a hotel with my Lightning (on another thread) and was told it was fine as long as I was charging.
But in cold weather (12F tonight) Ford says to keep your vehicle plugged at all times. So what’s the etiquette for staying plugged in at a public charger , not to charge, but just to protect the battery during a cold night ?
And is it causing more good than harm if I’m already at 100% SOC ?
 

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Thanks for this post! …great to know. Best real world gestimate of the power draw of the cabin heat/Climate system I’ve seen to date:

~179.067 W/min. or ~10.744 kWh ; or, ~8.2% of the usable ER battery if I have my math/logic correct🤔
I'm also curious about this...this wasn't answered.

What amperage does the truck require to precondition? I can't imagine being plugged into a L1 charger is sufficient...
10744 watts / 240 volts ~ 45 amps mean draw during that 15 minute period.
 

BennyTheBeaver

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10744 watts / 240 volts ~ 45 amps mean draw during that 15 minute period.
So 48a charging is what it needs to precondition without using any battery?
 

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This leads me to a another tangential question…
so I’m struggling with the etiquette of using a Tesla destination charger at a hotel with my Lightning (on another thread) and was told it was fine as long as I was charging.
But in cold weather (12F tonight) Ford says to keep your vehicle plugged at all times. So what’s the etiquette for staying plugged in at a public charger , not to charge, but just to protect the battery during a cold night ?
And is it causing more good than harm if I’m already at 100% SOC ?
If all the EVSE's are all occupied for the same concern, I would do a pre-conditioning while stand-alone, then pray that one of the stations will be vacant prior to my departure by an hour or two so I can restore what I burnt earlier, failing that just begin the drive and target a charging event down the road to recover what was lost, hopefully a station will be available once you have reached the optimal SOC for a full charge.
 

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So 48a charging is what it needs to precondition without using any battery?
I don't know for certain, many variables could affect the time/duration as several of our veteran Mach-E owners have pointed out. I suppose I could do iterative test cycles, by manually derating the FCSP lesser amperages and see how that affects duration and net impact on the truck battery.

Hey, didn't ford engineers already figure this all out?
 

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luebri

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So again… the ford TLC advice says keep plugged in in cold weather. What is it doing and how many amps does it take? I don’t read that to be preconditioning. Preconditioning is the surge of “get to ideal driving temp” amperage prior to driving isn’t it?

Scenario: Are you better to plug in at 6 PM and 32 amp charge until 7 AM or better to spike precondition at 48+ amp closer to the 7 am departure and do nothing prior to the precondition
 
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This leads me to a another tangential question…
so I’m struggling with the etiquette of using a Tesla destination charger at a hotel with my Lightning (on another thread) and was told it was fine as long as I was charging.
But in cold weather (12F tonight) Ford says to keep your vehicle plugged at all times. So what’s the etiquette for staying plugged in at a public charger , not to charge, but just to protect the battery during a cold night ?
And is it causing more good than harm if I’m already at 100% SOC ?
Its never OK to stay plugged in to a public charger if you don't need the charge to make it to your next destination - ever.

You don't need to be plugged in to protect the battery - the BMS will take care of it. It must be super cold for the truck to need to heat to "protect" the battery. This is likely not happening until you get way below freezing and dangerous territories for the battery.

If you are at home or have a dedicated plug and it is cold - then plug in and it'll use the shore power vs battery power to protect itself.
 
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So again… the ford TLC advice says keep plugged in in cold weather. What is it doing and how many amps does it take? I don’t read that to be preconditioning. Preconditioning is the surge of “get to ideal driving temp” amperage prior to driving isn’t it?

Scenario: Are you better to plug in at 6 PM and 32 amp charge until 7 AM or better to spike precondition at 48+ amp closer to the 7 am departure and do nothing prior to the precondition
I like the consistent temp charging at 32 amps, but this may not be as efficient as the other option. I'm guessing most people don't need that much charge on a nightly basis. When I was driving into the office and had a Model 3 - I only needed a couple of hours charging each night at 32 amps. For a 7 AM departure I'd start charging at 5 - it would warm the battery and charge, then at 6:50 I'd heat the cabin/turn on the seats.
 

luebri

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I like the consistent temp charging at 32 amps, but this may not be as efficient as the other option. I'm guessing most people don't need that much charge on a nightly basis. When I was driving into the office and had a Model 3 - I only needed a couple of hours charging each night at 32 amps. For a 7 AM departure I'd start charging at 5 - it would warm the battery and charge, then at 6:50 I'd heat the cabin/turn on the seats.
For this discussion I’m thinking less about the “ceiling ” temp prior to driving and more about the “floor” temp that could be detrimental long term to the battery? If plugged in but not charging (because not in charging window) what does being plugged in do? I.e. If it’s -10 out at 9 PM and my charge window doesn’t start til 10 PM what is being plugged in doing?
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