Pro Power problem

[Maquis]

because you are having issues with 'electronics', not necessarily 'electrical' issues since the HVAC is running(compressor)... I would lean toward a Ground or Neutral issue, since electronics have a MUCH more requirement for stable connections. The a/c unit probably doesn't care much. Lights don't care, etc.

I wonder if the GROUND for the rear INVERTER is the issue, since the front inverter is working fine for your electronics. Grounds on vehicles tend to degrade over time. Like a weak 12v battery, which might seem to work effectively for the most part, but suddenly start giving strange issues, a loose or weak Ground can create havoc, too.
If that's not it, it could simply be a loose Neutral wire within one or more wiring harnesses from the outlets to the inverter, etc.

He plugged the oven directly into the bed receptacle. That should have worked. It didn’t. The truck has a problem.

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[Hammick]

As I suspected my dealer has no way to test the Pro Power. I'm going to take the Anova oven in and show them that the rear outlets won't power it but the Frunk outlets will.

I had a battery module replaced in August due to the powertrain malfunction/high voltage battery fault. They had to put in new coolant and whatever procedure to get the air out. Any chance the coolant procedure wasn't done correctly and it fried my Pro Power inverter?

What else could this be besides a bad rear inverter? I checked all the connections under the truck and they are all tight. Might have to look for a Lightning certified dealer that has an occilliscope.

 

[TaxmanHog]

As I suspected my dealer has no way to test the Pro Power. I'm going to take the Anova oven in and show them that the rear outlets won't power it but the Frunk outlets will.

I had a battery module replaced in August due to the powertrain malfunction/high voltage battery fault. They had to put in new coolant and whatever procedure to get the air out. Any chance the coolant procedure wasn't done correctly and it fried my Pro Power inverter?

What else could this be besides a bad rear inverter? I checked all the connections under the truck and they are all tight. Might have to look for a Lightning certified dealer that has an occilliscope.

While there, test your oven on a Lightning in inventory that has PPOB.

 

[Hammick]

While there, test your oven on a Lightning in inventory that has PPOB.

Thanks. They don't have another Lightning. Maybe they have a hybrid with Pro Power. Our Ioniq 5 powers the oven no problem through it's V2L but that won't mean anything to them. Hopefully the Lightning Frunk outlets powering it will be enough.

As a backup I have an appointment next week with another dealer that has a oscilloscope and a Platinum in inventory. They told me my dealer should also have a oscilloscope or they wouldn't be able to sell Lightnings.

All I know is this is getting fixed one way or another. I have way too much time and effort in my transfer switch project to quit now.

 

[Gimme_my_MME]

I have way too much time and effort in my transfer switch project to quit now.

How does this relate to your transfer switch project? Do the bed outlets not work at all?

It won't power on when using the 240v outlet to power the house.

Do you mean that when you use the 240v to power your house this oven still won't work in the house?

 

[Gimme_my_MME]

Do you mean that when you use the 240v to power your house this oven still won't work in the house?

Reread everything again and yes that is what you mean.

So basically it won't run off power from the bed, either 120 directly or 240 to the house and then 120 from there.

 

[Hammick]

How does this relate to your transfer switch project? Do the bed outlets not work at all?



Do you mean that when you use the 240v to power your house this oven still won't work in the house?

Correct. The oven won't work with the 240v outlet in the bed connected to the xfer switch. But it will run our 4 ton AC unit, gas furnaces, refrigerators, freezer lights, appliances, etc. Our microwave display started doing really funky stuff when powered from the Pro Power to the xfer switch. And of course I received the message on the truck and in Ford Pass that there was a problem. I'm convinced the inverter is putting out "dirty power".

Good news is the service advisor, EV tech and service manager all came out to see our oven show and witnessed for themselves that the frunk 120v outlets will run it but not the bed 120v. Took a hand mixer to show them the bed outlets work. Even showed them that a lowly Ioniq 5 120v can run the oven. They also have a screenshot of the error message. So I'm confident I'll eventually get a new inverter or whatever is needed to get it working

Anyone in Kansas City willing to let me plug our oven into their Lightning bed?

 

[Hammick]

OP here. Figured out my other meter does HZ. Frunk inverter is putting out a steady 59.94 hz. Checked grid to confirm meter accuracy and it was right at 60. Rear outlets (120v and 240v) jump to 60 hz for a split second and then jumps all over the place. I hope I didn't fry any of our electronics.

This should be pretty easy for a dealer to diagnose.

Frunk:

Bed:

 

[v2h8484]

Looks like a defective inverter.

 

[Hammick]

Looks like a defective inverter.

Definitely. My dealer says they have no way to diagnose it. I even hauled the damn oven there to show them the frunk inverter will run it but the bed inverter won't. Going to a different dealer on Tuesday that has a oscilloscope. They may not need it when I show them the crazy HZ readings.

I can't bug my selling dealer too much as I need a good relationship with them for the next battery module replacement and all the recalls this truck has They gave me a nice loaner during my first module replacement.

 

[Maxx]

Guys, easy question for most of you: Is it OK to connect hot and neutral for my furnace to the truck while ground is connected to the house AND the truck at the same time? Is this unsafe in any way when utility power is out or when power comes back on?

or the ground for the furnace has to be disconnected from the house and only connected to the truck while I am using the pro power?

last year I froze my booty during outage and I am trying to make sure I am ready this year.

 

[Hammick]

Guys, easy question for most of you: Is it OK to connect hot and neutral for my furnace to the truck while ground is connected to the house AND the truck at the same time? Is this unsafe in any way when utility power is out or when power comes back on?

or the ground for the furnace has to be disconnected from the house and only connected to the truck while I am using the pro power?

last year I froze my booty during outage and I am trying to make sure I am ready this year.

Are you talking about temporarily putting a plug on your furnace so you can plug it into your Lightning with an extension cord when the power goes out? If so, and it's a gas furnace, it would be no different than plugging a refrigerator directly into one of the 120v outlets in the bed or frunk. Now if you are talking about a 240v electric furnace no way the truck will power it.

If the extension cord route I would hook hot, neutral and ground directly to the Lightning. Do not leave ground connected to your panel. Most gas furnaces are on 15a circuits so the Lightning will power it for days if not weeks.

If you plan to connect the lightning directly to your house your need to hire an electrician or know what your are doing. If you are comfortable working with electricity we can walk you through it.

 

[Maxx]

Are you talking about temporarily putting a plug on your furnace so you can plug it into your Lightning with an extension cord when the power goes out?

Thanks for a quick reply. That is exactly What I plan to do. I have the choice of doing it at a convenient location with the truck ground being connected to the house ground or a less convenient location where furnace ground would be only connected to truck ground. Sounds like you are telling me I should go the second route. I will do that.

Right now I am dealing with a separate problem where house voltage is erratic and using microwave can push it as low as 140V. Power company’s meter display outside the house looks all screwed up. Juicing Lightning (240) does not seem to cause voltage drop or spike on 120 so I am thinking neutral is lose or disconnected at the meter or somewhere before. I am hoping the problem is at the meter or transformer not in the house. I am trying to get the power company down here. If the power is not completely out, it is hard to convince them there is a problem. If you have any experience with this as well., please do share. Thanks again.

 

[Maquis]

Thanks for a quick reply. That is exactly What I plan to do. I have the choice of doing it at a convenient location with the truck ground being connected to the house ground or a less convenient location where furnace ground would be only connected to truck ground. Sounds like you are telling me I should go the second route. I will do that.

Right now I am dealing with a separate problem where house voltage is erratic and using microwave can push it as low as 140V. Power company’s meter display outside the house looks all screwed up. Juicing Lightning (240) does not seem to cause voltage drop or spike on 120 so I am thinking neutral is lose or disconnected at the meter or somewhere before. I am hoping the problem is at the meter or transformer not in the house. I am trying to get the power company down here. If the power is not completely out, it is hard to convince them there is a problem. If you have any experience with this as well., please do share. Thanks again.

First, you have a compromised neutral somewhere between the POCO transformer and your panel. You need to get that addressed ASAP before you start frying stuff.

Run all 3 wires (L-N-G) to your furnace. Make sure the furnace is disconnected from house power.
Edit: It’s fine if the furnace is still connected to home’s grounding system. Just be sure L and N are not!

 

[Maxx]

First, you have a compromised neutral somewhere between the POCO transformer and your panel. You need to get that addressed ASAP before you start frying stuff.

Run all 3 wires (L-N-G) to your furnace. Make sure the furnace is disconnected from house power.
Edit: It’s fine if the furnace is still connected to home’s grounding system. Just be sure L and N are not!

You were right. Power company just took care of it. Neutral at transformer was completely disconnected. A falling branch during storm took it out. Everything is stable now. My amplifier did have a heart attack and is buzzing now. I am not sure loss of neutral caused it or a lightning.

On the Pro power, got one more question: I have some extension cords that have only two wires. what happens if I use those for some appliances using one of those 2 to 3 hole adapters at the end (if they are not connected to Truck’s ground)?

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