Adding a Sub to non-unleashed BO system

[TJSparky]

TJ how did you end up wiring the remote on?
And did you do a dedicated power?

I ran dedicated power and ground.
The LC2i-Pro senses signal from the old speaker (sub) wire input to turn on the lc2i-pro and amp

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[Tldx07]

I ran dedicated power and ground.
The LC2i-Pro senses signal from the old speaker (sub) wire input to turn on the lc2i-pro and amp

Understood so your really just worrying about speaker inputs and power ground, makes it even easier so it seems.
you run right to the engine compartment for power ground?

 

[TJSparky]

Yes. Both positive and ground are ran directly to the battery. I did this due to the aluminum body and I may add a NAV TV Zen A2B to replace the stock amp in the future.

 

[BCrippsy38]

Has anyone tried the kicker hideaway with AND without a LOC? Curious if there's a noticeable difference?
A LOC isn't needed for the low level inputs but sounds like it will help keep the dsp signal linear throughout the volume range.

 

[Graygoose2021]

On base audio you don't need it. recommend a LC2i / Kicker KEYLOC if has upgraded audio

 

[BCrippsy38]

On base audio you don't need it. recommend a LC2i / Kicker KEYLOC if has upgraded audio

Ok I have the B&O non unleashed.
Any major differences between the KEYLOC and LC2i? Leaning towards the LC2i unless less keeping everything kicker has an advantage.

 

[RellIk&5]

What gauge wiring are you all using for power with a powered sub like the Kicker 46HS10? Is 10 gauge sufficient or do I really need to be looking at 4?

I've already swapped out all my speakers with JL Audio and used SoundSkins on my doors. The improvement in sound quality is significant. Now I'm just looking for a little more bass. The setups in here with the dedicated apps are nice, but I'm not that much of an audiophile that I need to go that route--hence the reason I'm just looking at the LC2 with a powered sub.

 

[Graygoose2021]

Ok I have the B&O non unleashed.
Any major differences between the KEYLOC and LC2i? Leaning towards the LC2i unless less keeping everything kicker has an advantage.

Both will do what you need it to. Take the factory EQing out, flatten the curve, and allow you to play much deeper bass.

 

[RellIk&5]

Here is a pic of the setup I did…

What sub model is that? Did you have to do anything aside from remove the stock sub to get it to fit?

 

[Tldx07]

Hey guys, so I did most the leg work on this unit tonight. The kicker hideaway plus the LC2i.
mounted everything ran my power to the battery and found my ground. Question beingI have to have constant power to both the Hideaway and the LC2i correct? Reading the hideaway literature makes it sound Like I could get a 12v feed from the remote wire?
Currently just have power from battery to LC2i.

 

[RellIk&5]

Hey guys, so I did most the leg work on this unit tonight. The kicker hideaway plus the LC2i.
mounted everything ran my power to the battery and found my ground. Question beingI have to have constant power to both the Hideaway and the LC2i correct? Reading the hideaway literature makes it sound Like I could get a 12v feed from the remote wire?
Currently just have power from battery to LC2i.

Curious about this, as well. One power run to the battery (positive AND negative) and then to a distro block? Use the distro block for powering the LC2 and the amp? Or are you splitting the power some other way?

Actually found a few diagrams where people are running the power from the battery (8 AWG) directly in to the amp and then running 18 AWG wires from the power terminals on the amp to the power terminals on the LC2 with a 1AMP fuse in between.

Still curious how others here have done it.

 

[SRHAGEN]

It's not quite the same thing. You can definitely make it sound better with the bass boost and I did that for years. Only reason I switched to using LC2i's is after seeing a spectrum analyzer showing the signal from the OEM head unit and watching the bass spectrums fall right out completely as the radio got past 1/2 volume. The bass bleeds out until there is almost none being output by the top volume. Of course most OEM head units start outputting distortion around the 3/4 volume point so your really only gaining that last quarter volume. The LOC's and Bass Boosts try to crank up the bass volume levels from where they are output. The LC2i repairs the signal and restores the full spectrum at all levels. Honestly, the difference isn't overwhelming as compared to Bass Boost but after seeing the spectrum analyzer it sold me.

I got the Kicker install and just got to say wow I am impressed on this little sub. (Next thing i want to do is change all the speakers) So the kicker comes with all the wiring you need. Power wire from power block in engine to amp and as well signal wire from head-unit to amp. From factory all holes for screws and slits on carpet are there. Ford just didn't add the harness like they used to. Now on the head-unit there is no addition setting for just the sub so you still only have the 3 settings (Bass, Mid, Treble). A ford dealer needs to do the install it since they have to update the ACM and other components. Running the wires and all was pretty easy and only took about 1.5hrs.

if u don’t mind my asking What it cost out the door?. I really want to put it in my 22 XLT.

 

[BCrippsy38]

Curious about this, as well. One power run to the battery (positive AND negative) and then to a distro block? Use the distro block for powering the LC2 and the amp? Or are you splitting the power some other way?

Actually found a few diagrams where people are running the power from the battery (8 AWG) directly in to the sub and then running 18 AWG wires from the power terminals on the sub to the power terminals on the LC2 with a 1AMP fuse in between.

Still curious how others here have done it.

The LC2i only draws 150mA and calls for a 1 amp fuse. I'm planning to tap off the power from the oem dsp/amp unit. That way I'm not relying on the sensing remote on, I've heard any DC offset on the inputs can make them turn on inadvertently.

 

[Tldx07]

Curious about this, as well. One power run to the battery (positive AND negative) and then to a distro block? Use the distro block for powering the LC2 and the amp? Or are you splitting the power some other way?

Actually found a few diagrams where people are running the power from the battery (8 AWG) directly in to the sub and then running 18 AWG wires from the power terminals on the sub to the power terminals on the LC2 with a 1AMP fuse in between.

Still curious how others here have done it.

This is what I decided to try, ordered a distribution block on Amazon (positive and negative split) 8 gauge in from battery and will split 10 gauge feeds one set to the Hideaway (amp for some) and one set to the LC2i. Would not see why this wouldn’t be a clean easy solution. Will let you know

 

[RellIk&5]

The LC2i only draws 150mA and calls for a 1 amp fuse. I'm planning to tap off the power from the oem dsp/amp unit. That way I'm not relying on the sensing remote on, I've heard any DC offset on the inputs can make them turn on inadvertently.

Do you know which wire and in which of the two harnesses provides the power to the factory amp?

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