Anyone figured out how to turn off the frunk beeping yet?

[Avocadodude]

Guess I just found out why my frunk has been acting up. I guess Ford really wanted me to clean it out so I can take it apart again

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[mrau]

True, and that is what I'll likely do.

However it would be nice to put it back into "working order" if needed. Might be a difficult wire to repair after cutting it. At that point may have to buy a new beeper.

 

[Scorpio3d]

Can somebody program it to sound like lightning strikes, or perhaps play thunderstruck by AC/DC or many of the other songs that mention thunder or lightning

 

[sstevetx]

True, and that is what I'll likely do.

However it would be nice to put it back into "working order" if needed. Might be a difficult wire to repair after cutting it. At that point may have to buy a new beeper.

I didn't cut mine, but rather pulled the wire that was wedged between 2 metal pieces in that pic earlier. I should be able to wedge it back in if needed with a little solder just to make sure it stays.

 

[WillB17]

Yep, you are right.

No MIL light on the dash, but I did check for codes. Got code: B14B8 -Sounder

May do some surgery on the beeper and reinstall in a few days.

Thanks.

Might be time for @WillB17 (MegaOhm) to design a plug-in solution.

On it! Going to try and get my hands on a lightning this month and figure something out. It should be a lot cheaper and easier to make than my existing bypass too based on what i've seen here. I'm glad it doesnt throw a dash code, but like others said it may be problematic and will certainly throw a non MIL code at the scanner level.

 

[mrau]

I was able to find a used beeper with the female plug still attached on eBay. After it arrived I opened it up to get a look. (Wanted to keep my original part in good order in case I need it later).

Unfortunately this part is a bit rusty inside. The ad said it came from a 2017 Subaru Impreza. It looks identical to my Ford part. Shows the same resistance when measured across the female wires (.235 ohms) when plugged into either the used buzzer or the Ford buzzer.

The inside looks to be the same resistor as others photos that were posted in this thread of the Ford original buzzer.

@WillB17 not sure if these photos will help in the design of your plug-in bypass, but here they are.

 

[dww]

Hey all,

I was one that removed the beeper quite a while ago. I started having fronk lifter issues recently where it would pop open and would not raise, but if i manually lifted it, it would lower and lock with no issues. Took it into the dealer, and the noted that the beeper was gone and plugged it back in and it started lifting on its own again. Looks like there may have been an update that is now checking for some of the safety items. They are continuing to do some work to find out exactly, but i guess i may have to wrap it in foam or something to quite it down after I get it back.

I did this. I wrapped the speaker in double sided foamy tape then wrapped that with black pipe insulation then taped that and put it back. It’s now quiet enough to not be annoying and at 10ft or so you wouldn’t be able to hear it.

 

[Mike G]

I just scrunched up three large foam shipping noodles and shoved them into the speaker hole. They expanded and you can now hear this little faint beeping, but it’s hardly noticeable. I didn’t have to cut anything or solder anything and you can’t tell by looking at it that anything’s been done.

 

[WillB17]

I was able to find a used beeper with the female plug still attached on eBay. After it arrived I opened it up to get a look. (Wanted to keep my original part in good order in case I need it later).

Unfortunately this part is a bit rusty inside. The ad said it came from a 2017 Subaru Impreza. It looks identical to my Ford part. Shows the same resistance when measured across the female wires (.235 ohms) when plugged into either the used buzzer or the Ford buzzer.

The inside looks to be the same resistor as others photos that were posted in this thread of the Ford original buzzer.

@WillB17 not sure if these photos will help in the design of your plug-in bypass, but here they are.

Thanks a ton, I did the same as you and got the buzzer as well from Ebay. I ohm'd it out to 22 ohms though. Now I am hunting down the OEM housing, terminals and seals. Finding overseas connectors though is always the hardest. EDIT: I guess I spoke too soon, found everything I need! Hopefully have a working proto in the next two weeks.

 

[EliPNW]

Thanks a ton, I did the same as you and got the buzzer as well from Ebay. I ohm'd it out to 22 ohms though. Now I am hunting down the OEM housing, terminals and seals. Finding overseas connectors though is always the hardest. EDIT: I guess I spoke too soon, found everything I need! Hopefully have a working proto in the next two weeks.

How goes the battle? Any updates?

 

[drjones]

Hey there guys! Will from MegaOhm Motorsports here! I finally was able to get my hands on a Lightning again for development and dug into getting rid of the Frunk Beeper that you all hate.

I finally got my Lightning 2 weeks ago and just pulled out the little speaker (despite the code it seems to be throwing recently). I signed up here just to say 'thanks.' Oh, and I ordered the speaker bypass too!

 

[WillB17]

How goes the battle? Any updates?

Still working on the details! Unfortunately I was shipped incompatible parts so I am in the waiting game on replacements.

 

[dustintinsley]

Thanks a ton, I did the same as you and got the buzzer as well from Ebay. I ohm'd it out to 22 ohms though. Now I am hunting down the OEM housing, terminals and seals. Finding overseas connectors though is always the hardest. EDIT: I guess I spoke too soon, found everything I need! Hopefully have a working proto in the next two weeks.

on a brand new frunk speaker from pin to pin I get a resistance of 298 Ω. Can that be correct?

 

[WillB17]

on a brand new frunk speaker from pin to pin I get a resistance of 298 Ω. Can that be correct?

That seems high based on my testing.

 

[dustintinsley]

That seems high based on my testing.

That’s what I thought as well

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