NYCLABORER79
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On dash bored when you get in/ start it. Next time ill take picHow are you measuring or determining the amps and KW?
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On dash bored when you get in/ start it. Next time ill take picHow are you measuring or determining the amps and KW?
Once i got off the phone with chargepoint these guys all these calls saved. And he mentioned to me that 4 awg is not acceptable on this charger. Now say next week something happens to thia charger and see wrong wire. That right away void warranty. That was the only reason why i changed itWhy would you rewire it?
Why would you think rewiring it would change anything?
And yet again, your truck won't charge any faster than 48a.
I get it, i understand now. I was convinced that i wanted to see 48amps /11.5kwh on the dash that was the reason i was tryingAre you reading anything anyone is telling you in this thread? Your truck will not charge any faster than 48 amps. The trucks on board equipment maxes out at 48 amps charging on a 2024 lightning.
Rewiring it with a smaller gauge wire and circuit breaker was completely pointless. It has absolutely nothing to do with this.
This still doesn't make any sense. An 80 amp charger requires #3 copper. If the charger has a setting to derate its maximum output, that would allow for smaller wire (#4 or #6) and a smaller breaker. If the charger cannot be derated in software or hardware settings, then the 80 amp charger can only be hooked up with #3 copper.Once i got off the phone with chargepoint these guys all these calls saved. And he mentioned to me that 4 awg is not acceptable on this charger. Now say next week something happens to thia charger and see wrong wire. That right away void warranty. That was the only reason why i changed it
You never will. That's 48 amps 11.5kwh on the AC input. If you put a meter on the wire going into the charger, you would see up to 48 amps. The AC to DC inverter charger on the truck has inherent 10-15% efficiency loss. So the actual DC juice going into the truck battery which you see on the dashboard and in your Ford Pass app will always be about 10 to 15% less than what's going into the charger.I get it, i understand now. I was convinced that i wanted to see 48amps /11.5kwh on the dash that was the reason i was trying
That is correct, i did see that on ford app. Once again thank you for clearing this upYou never will. That's 48 amps 11.5kwh on the AC input. If you put a meter on the wire going into the charger, you would see up to 48 amps. The AC to DC inverter charger on the truck has inherent 10-15% efficiency loss. So the actual DC juice going into the truck battery which you see on the dashboard and in your Ford Pass app will always be about 10 to 15% less than what's going into the charger.
I know but even inside the charger says no larger than 6awgThis still doesn't make any sense. An 80 amp charger requires #3 copper. If the charger has a setting to derate its maximum output, that would allow for smaller wire (#4 or #6) and a smaller breaker. If the charger cannot be derated in software or hardware settings, then the 80 amp charger can only be hooked up with #3 copper.
So I think either you or the Charge Point tech support are completely discombobulated.
All chargers are like that but they complicate things by even suggesting running it on an 80 amp circuit when it's not capable in the first place.I know but even inside the charger says no larger than 6awg
Thank you, trust me i was screaming at the guy for false advertising lol im glad its all cleared upAll chargers are like that but they complicate things by even suggesting running it on an 80 amp circuit when it's not capable in the first place.
If you mean inOn dash bored when you get in/ start it. Next time ill take pic