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NYCLABORER79

NYCLABORER79

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How are you measuring or determining the amps and KW?
On dash bored when you get in/ start it. Next time ill take pic
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Runaway Tractor

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Are you reading anything anyone is telling you in this thread? Your truck will not charge any faster than 48 amps. The trucks on board equipment maxes out at 48 amps charging on a 2024 lightning.

Rewiring it with a smaller gauge wire and circuit breaker was completely pointless. It has absolutely nothing to do with this.
 
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NYCLABORER79

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Why would you rewire it?

Why would you think rewiring it would change anything?

And yet again, your truck won't charge any faster than 48a.
Once i got off the phone with chargepoint these guys all these calls saved. And he mentioned to me that 4 awg is not acceptable on this charger. Now say next week something happens to thia charger and see wrong wire. That right away void warranty. That was the only reason why i changed it
 
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NYCLABORER79

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Are you reading anything anyone is telling you in this thread? Your truck will not charge any faster than 48 amps. The trucks on board equipment maxes out at 48 amps charging on a 2024 lightning.

Rewiring it with a smaller gauge wire and circuit breaker was completely pointless. It has absolutely nothing to do with this.
I get it, i understand now. I was convinced that i wanted to see 48amps /11.5kwh on the dash that was the reason i was trying
 

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Once i got off the phone with chargepoint these guys all these calls saved. And he mentioned to me that 4 awg is not acceptable on this charger. Now say next week something happens to thia charger and see wrong wire. That right away void warranty. That was the only reason why i changed it
This still doesn't make any sense. An 80 amp charger requires #3 copper. If the charger has a setting to derate its maximum output, that would allow for smaller wire (#4 or #6) and a smaller breaker. If the charger cannot be derated in software or hardware settings, then the 80 amp charger can only be hooked up with #3 copper.

So I think either you or the Charge Point tech support are completely discombobulated.
 
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Runaway Tractor

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I get it, i understand now. I was convinced that i wanted to see 48amps /11.5kwh on the dash that was the reason i was trying
You never will. That's 48 amps 11.5kwh on the AC input. If you put a meter on the wire going into the charger, you would see up to 48 amps. The AC to DC inverter charger on the truck has inherent 10-15% efficiency loss. So the actual DC juice going into the truck battery which you see on the dashboard and in your Ford Pass app will always be about 10 to 15% less than what's going into the charger.
 
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NYCLABORER79

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You never will. That's 48 amps 11.5kwh on the AC input. If you put a meter on the wire going into the charger, you would see up to 48 amps. The AC to DC inverter charger on the truck has inherent 10-15% efficiency loss. So the actual DC juice going into the truck battery which you see on the dashboard and in your Ford Pass app will always be about 10 to 15% less than what's going into the charger.
That is correct, i did see that on ford app. Once again thank you for clearing this up
 
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NYCLABORER79

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This still doesn't make any sense. An 80 amp charger requires #3 copper. If the charger has a setting to derate its maximum output, that would allow for smaller wire (#4 or #6) and a smaller breaker. If the charger cannot be derated in software or hardware settings, then the 80 amp charger can only be hooked up with #3 copper.

So I think either you or the Charge Point tech support are completely discombobulated.
I know but even inside the charger says no larger than 6awg

Ford F-150 Lightning ChargePoint HomeFlex HARDWIRED 80amps IMG_1892


Ford F-150 Lightning ChargePoint HomeFlex HARDWIRED 80amps IMG_1893
 

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The Chargepoint Home Flex can deliver max 50A, the truck can accept max 48A, no setting or wiring can increase that further/ make it higher.

The chargepoint app will show the output of the charger, in your case it'll be around 11-12kW


Chargepoint did everyone a disfavor by mixing in circuit amperage when everyone else is talking output.

Ford did everyone a disfavor by more or less silently dropping the dual on-board chargers on ER trucks.
 

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NYCLABORER79

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All chargers are like that but they complicate things by even suggesting running it on an 80 amp circuit when it's not capable in the first place.
Thank you, trust me i was screaming at the guy for false advertising lol im glad its all cleared up
 

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You did the correct thing by changing wire to 6 awg wire. That is what the EVSE unit calls for. Luckily it did not look to difficult to change that wire out.

Note that at 45 amps if you get 9.2 kw then you are likely on a 204 volt system.
( Amps x Volts = kW). Some homes are 240 volt, and they would generate a bit more kW at the same amps.

Not sure why you only show 45 amp instead of 48, but it is pretty darn close. Doubt you will ever notice the difference in how the truck charges.

Nice work overall. :thumbsup:
 

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This is really stupid advertising. It's a 50 amp charger but this line about "works with 20-80 amp circuits is bad. You can ot put 6awg wire on an 80 amp circuit so the statement is not only confusing, but dangerous and wrong.

Sounds like you have it sorted out and hooked up correctly now. Knowing now that it is a 50 amp charger, your #6 wire and 60 amp breaker is good.
 

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On dash bored when you get in/ start it. Next time ill take pic
If you mean in FordPass, what you are seeing pretty normal. Based on subsequent posts, it appears you have things sorted.

Edit: Never mind….I forgot you guys get to see charge info on the dashboard.
 
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StevenC56

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So the charger says gauges 6-12. Is that because the terminals can only accept those gauge sizes? 12 gauge certainly wouldn't be right for this level of charger. And I'm no electrician, but if 4 gauge wire fit the terminals, how the heck would that present any problem?
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