DIY: Installing ACC (Adaptive Cruise Control) and LKA (Lane Keep Alert) to 2022 F-150 Lightning XLT

[personalt]

Hello everyone, I just got added to this forum, sorry I've been stuck over @ lightning owners forum, ughhhh, not many technical people over there, just a lot of people mad at Ford their truck isn't in their driveway yet. It makes sense that this forum includes and was born out of the ICE F150 people. I've been watching this thread for a few days without the ability to post, finally got approved yesterday.

So, I've been working with steveje from the FB post that Jason did which is the OP of this DIY. Thanks to both of them I've figured out so much in the past week. I'm an EE and since I've already bought and installed the front bumper harness I decided to exercise a bit of my OCD for this install at the expense of a few days time. Steve and I figured out that our trucks (2022 XLT SR EG311A) are missing the CCM wiring only between C265 and C134. I told him I'd like to maintain the IP rating of that Main Lever Lock Front bumper connector (C134) and leave the Front Bumper Harness 100% Factory, so I took apart the male side of C134 to figure out what pins it used. This was a nightmare trying to figure it out by part #, but I'm 99% confident I got it right:

This is what I ordered:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0194170028/3183227
I also ordered the correct color striped wire from:
https://4rcustomswire.com/products/20-gauge-txl-wire-6-striped-colors-each-25-foot-long
I ordered 20AWG so I could get the colors to perfectly match the factory harness colors:
Grey
Green-White Stripe
Brown-Blue Stripe
Grey-Blue Stripe

I realize the factory wiring is 22AWG, but they only had the correct colors in 20AWG and it will hit the sweet spot of the size range for the terminals and be a bit stronger mechanically.

Getting C134 apart without damaging anything is a bit tricky, when I do it a 2nd time this week I'll post a follow up on how it comes apart so anyone else can do this if they want. I won't be doing all this work inside for C365 since it doesn't need the IP rating; will probably just pull the pins from the IMPA side of that connector and use inline WAGO lever nuts to couple them to the CCM wiring heading out to the front.

I know this is a lot of work to make it match the factory wiring diagram. I won't fault anyone for just going the pigtail route. Part of my motivation for stuff like this is, "can I do it", LOL. Looking forward to seeing this working and having ACC and Lane Centering. Thanks All.

I am doing the same job(though on ICE XLT). If you decide you want to get any more pins - I had good luck with these pins (below) for 22 gauge. The 22 guage vs 18-20 or in your case 18-22 is that the 'wings' are a hair bigger to allow for larger wire. It is a bit easier to crimp tight the 22 guage specific pins if you run 22 guage. FYI - There are multiple part numbers that are 'the same' as they have part numbers for how thy are packaged including 'on a roll that comes of to the left' and 'on a roll that comes off to the right'. All the differnt 'right' part numbers were confusing the hell out of me. But looks like you got it.. There is a similar set of Molex 150 pins that instead of having that same little lock pin/dimple have a void on that side.

That is interesting that you guys are missing wires from C134 to C265.. In my case (ICE XLT 302A), I have the wires from C134 to C265 but not C265 to IPMA. I pulled apart C134 because I wanted to add the 6 sensor front parking (to do active cruise) and needed to pin two wires for that. That whole wiring is crazy. Parking sensors (at least on ice) go from bumper connector up drivers side to C1590 and cruise control model goes from bumper connector to C265 on passenger side and then to IPMA. If both bumper sensors and CCM go from bumper to IPMA it seems very weird they go differnt paths.

I did a full 6 sensor (had none) + CCM + 360 camera add on ice XLT 302A. Hopefully wrapping up the wiring tomorrow. Just need to add small harness from IPMA to C265.

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[personalt]

Missing wires. It's not going to magically appear so you can stop trying.

This may not be true. @steveje. I know on the ICE version to get the CCM going you need to make some of the forescan changes to get the IPMA to apply power to the 12 volt CCM pins. So issue could be programming

 

[Jasontn316]

Hello everyone, I just got added to this forum, sorry I've been stuck over @ lightning owners forum, ughhhh, not many technical people over there, just a lot of people mad at Ford their truck isn't in their driveway yet. It makes sense that this forum includes and was born out of the ICE F150 people. I've been watching this thread for a few days without the ability to post, finally got approved yesterday.

So, I've been working with steveje from the FB post that Jason did which is the OP of this DIY. Thanks to both of them I've figured out so much in the past week. I'm an EE and since I've already bought and installed the front bumper harness I decided to exercise a bit of my OCD for this install at the expense of a few days time. Steve and I figured out that our trucks (2022 XLT SR EG311A) are missing the CCM wiring only between C265 and C134. I told him I'd like to maintain the IP rating of that Main Lever Lock Front bumper connector (C134) and leave the Front Bumper Harness 100% Factory, so I took apart the male side of C134 to figure out what pins it used. This was a nightmare trying to figure it out by part #, but I'm 99% confident I got it right:

This is what I ordered:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0194170028/3183227
I also ordered the correct color striped wire from:
https://4rcustomswire.com/products/20-gauge-txl-wire-6-striped-colors-each-25-foot-long
I ordered 20AWG so I could get the colors to perfectly match the factory harness colors:
Grey
Green-White Stripe
Brown-Blue Stripe
Grey-Blue Stripe

I realize the factory wiring is 22AWG, but they only had the correct colors in 20AWG and it will hit the sweet spot of the size range for the terminals and be a bit stronger mechanically.

Getting C134 apart without damaging anything is a bit tricky, when I do it a 2nd time this week I'll post a follow up on how it comes apart so anyone else can do this if they want. I won't be doing all this work inside for C365 since it doesn't need the IP rating; will probably just pull the pins from the IMPA side of that connector and use inline WAGO lever nuts to couple them to the CCM wiring heading out to the front.

I know this is a lot of work to make it match the factory wiring diagram. I won't fault anyone for just going the pigtail route. Part of my motivation for stuff like this is, "can I do it", LOL. Looking forward to seeing this working and having ACC and Lane Centering. Thanks All.

This was way over my head until I figured out which connectors those were. I will wait on pics so I know which wires to see if available. If not, I guess I will be running wires.

 

[Blochead21]

Did anyone else get this working besides the OP?

 

[steveje]

Did anyone else get this working besides the OP?

getting close. Myself and another member working on the additional wiring required and should be able to report back tomorrow.

 

[timothyedwards]

@OP

XLT with what options from factory?

My apologies if answered previously.

 

[ZSC100]

Success!
@steveje and I have been working on this and I finally got it working last night.

As I mentioned earlier we both discovered we were missing the wiring between C134 (Main Front Bumper Level Lock Connector) and C265 (Passenger Kickpanel 50+pin Lever Lock Connector)

So since I'd already installed the bumper harness, I decided to go full OCD on the missing piece and match the factory wiring color scheme and maintain the IP rating and connectivity of C134.

Here are the pins I ordered:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0194170028/3183227

Here is the wire I ordered:
https://4rcustomswire.com/products/20-gauge-txl-wire-6-striped-colors-each-25-foot-long

I did all this post bumper off work. Once the backup/PAWS speaker is removed you can easily get to C134 with one hand and work the lever to unhook it and bring it into the frunk bay for pin work. For the backup/PAWS speaker removal I've been using a 1000Ohm resistor since the week I got the truck, but after removing it during this job and discovering that it's just a 4Ohm speaker I discovered you can replace it with a Ford Injector and get the IP rating of the connector back

So, here is a video of how to add the pins to C134:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CCwe7fXHhBoCezgz7

Here is where I went through the firewall:

And here is the final splice to the factory pins I extracted from C265:

If you're following Jason's original post just know that you will not receive power to the CCM until you execute the IMPA changes as that module supplies power directly to the CCM. You can basically execute all module changes except the VIN -> CCM, then you can rediscover and find the module.

Also, make sure you don't forget to level the vertical of the CCM:

and clear all DTCs before attempting to calibrate the horizontal in FORScan.

Good times:

 

[Pod]

I so want to do this to my ‘23 XLT but I think I’m too stupid.

 

[Jasontn316]

Success!
@steveje and I have been working on this and I finally got it working last night.

As I mentioned earlier we both discovered we were missing the wiring between C134 (Main Front Bumper Level Lock Connector) and C265 (Passenger Kickpanel 50+pin Lever Lock Connector)

So since I'd already installed the bumper harness, I decided to go full OCD on the missing piece and match the factory wiring color scheme and maintain the IP rating and connectivity of C134.

Here are the pins I ordered:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0194170028/3183227

Here is the wire I ordered:
https://4rcustomswire.com/products/20-gauge-txl-wire-6-striped-colors-each-25-foot-long

I did all this post bumper off work. Once the backup/PAWS speaker is removed you can easily get to C134 with one hand and work the lever to unhook it and bring it into the frunk bay for pin work. For the backup/PAWS speaker removal I've been using a 1000Ohm resistor since the week I got the truck, but after removing it during this job and discovering that it's just a 4Ohm speaker I discovered you can replace it with a Ford Injector and get the IP rating of the connector back

So, here is a video of how to add the pins to C134:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CCwe7fXHhBoCezgz7

Here is where I went through the firewall:

And here is the final splice to the factory pins I extracted from C265:

If you're following Jason's original post just know that you will not receive power to the CCM until you execute the IMPA changes as that module supplies power directly to the CCM. You can basically execute all module changes except the VIN -> CCM, then you can rediscover and find the module.

Also, make sure you don't forget to level the vertical of the CCM:

and clear all DTCs before attempting to calibrate the horizontal in FORScan.

Good times:

Thank you. I have requested the custom wire colors. Did you leave the wires out of the boot after the splice bypassing the connector? What type of splice connectors did you use?

 

[pdxmadman]

Success!
@steveje and I have been working on this and I finally got it working last night.

As I mentioned earlier we both discovered we were missing the wiring between C134 (Main Front Bumper Level Lock Connector) and C265 (Passenger Kickpanel 50+pin Lever Lock Connector)

So since I'd already installed the bumper harness, I decided to go full OCD on the missing piece and match the factory wiring color scheme and maintain the IP rating and connectivity of C134.

Here are the pins I ordered:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0194170028/3183227

Here is the wire I ordered:
https://4rcustomswire.com/products/20-gauge-txl-wire-6-striped-colors-each-25-foot-long

I did all this post bumper off work. Once the backup/PAWS speaker is removed you can easily get to C134 with one hand and work the lever to unhook it and bring it into the frunk bay for pin work. For the backup/PAWS speaker removal I've been using a 1000Ohm resistor since the week I got the truck, but after removing it during this job and discovering that it's just a 4Ohm speaker I discovered you can replace it with a Ford Injector and get the IP rating of the connector back

So, here is a video of how to add the pins to C134:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CCwe7fXHhBoCezgz7

Here is where I went through the firewall:

And here is the final splice to the factory pins I extracted from C265:

If you're following Jason's original post just know that you will not receive power to the CCM until you execute the IMPA changes as that module supplies power directly to the CCM. You can basically execute all module changes except the VIN -> CCM, then you can rediscover and find the module.

Also, make sure you don't forget to level the vertical of the CCM:

and clear all DTCs before attempting to calibrate the horizontal in FORScan.

Good times:

FantastIc work Zach. I have a 23 Pro with tow tech package and have been working with Brotato on getting ACC in my truck. For some reason his 22 XLT 310 package had the correct wiring. We have installed all of the hardware but like most others, we are missing these four wires in my install. Thank you for the video. That is super helpful.

I dug into my passenger side kick panel and want to ensure I am looking at the correct C265 connector. I have attached a photo for confirmation. So you just removed the pins from the connector and directly spliced into them? How difficult was it to remove those pins from C265? Doesn't appear there is a lot of space in there for my hands.

I have ordered wires and pins and hope to have success in the next couple of weeks. Thanks again for all of your help with this.

 

[ZSC100]

FantastIc work Zach. I have a 23 Pro with tow tech package and have been working with Brotato on getting ACC in my truck. For some reason his 22 XLT 310 package had the correct wiring. We have installed all of the hardware but like most others, we are missing these four wires in my install. Thank you for the video. That is super helpful.

I dug into my passenger side kick panel and want to ensure I am looking at the correct C265 connector. I have attached a photo for confirmation. So you just removed the pins from the connector and directly spliced into them? How difficult was it to remove those pins from C265? Doesn't appear there is a lot of space in there for my hands.

I have ordered wires and pins and hope to have success in the next couple of weeks. Thanks again for all of your help with this.

I don't think we will ever understand the rhyme or reason as to why some wires exist when they are not needed and some are left out. With all the supply chain problems I imagine sometimes to keep the production line running they will use a harness piece of a higher package on a vehicle if the correct one is for some reason not available at that very moment.

Correct, that is C265, both Steve and I reached in there with one hand and a pry tool to pry the lever open and broke a small piece of the connecter when prying it open. I could tell there was some kind of clip, but with the limited space and only one hand we both resorted to a pry tool. I'm still not 100% sure how to unclip the lever, I tried many things with one hand, but I did take a few good pics.

Here is what it would look like if it was not broken off. I simply set it back into place to take this picture

Once you get this female end released you can pull it out and bring it down to have just enough room to work on it. You pry and release the retainer like this

Once you have the retainer out you remove the pins with a pic in a very similar fashion to C134.
I left the factory female pins crimped on and simply inserted them into WAGO in-line Lever-Nuts

Thankfully the way the male plug is fastened up on the firewall relative to gravity even with the broken clip I have 100% faith it will never try to release itself. There is plenty of friction in the connector overall and gravity holds the lever down.

 

[ZSC100]

Thank you. I have requested the custom wire colors. Did you leave the wires out of the boot after the splice bypassing the connector? What type of splice connectors did you use?

Not sure exactly what you mean by leaving the wires out of the boot? This was essentially a homemade four conductor harness that goes from C134 along the big orange factory harness, under the outside fuse panel, through the firewall below the refrigerant lines, and connects to the four pins I extracted from C265. I used a combination of lever nuts like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124985698490

I keep a variety of in-line and traditional lever nuts. WAGO is the name brand and you can get at some electrical supply houses. If you order from Amazon or eBay, you'll get a Chinese brand copy, but they have always worked just as well.

 

[steveje]

Success for me too! I did exactly the same as @ZSC100 did above so I won’t repeat that. Some additional notes:

Contrary to the original instructions, the CCM module won’t appear in ForSCAN until you make the IPMA changes. Everything else worked perfect for me.

During the calibration, I got an error on the dash saying “front sensor not aligned”. The error stayed on the dash during the entire calibration. Once calibration completed, the error went away. Just making note of this because I was worried about my sensor being misaligned.

Other than that, the original guide, plus the additional 4 wires from the bumper harness to the C265 harness got me working.

Another idea: we decided this method was best because we had the bumper harness already installed and also wanted to keep the weather protection ratings. But if you haven’t already bought/installed the bumper harness, you could accomplish this by getting the oem pigtail for the CCM harness and wiring that to C265 the same way we did. I would have done this had I known what we know now.

Thanks again to the original poster and to @ZSC100 for working with me to get this figured out.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

Success for me too! I did exactly the same as @ZSC100 did above so I won’t repeat that. Some additional notes:

Contrary to the original instructions, the CCM module won’t appear in ForSCAN until you make the IPMA changes. Everything else worked perfect for me.

During the calibration, I got an error on the dash saying “front sensor not aligned”. The error stayed on the dash during the entire calibration. Once calibration completed, the error went away. Just making note of this because I was worried about my sensor being misaligned.

Other than that, the original guide, plus the additional 4 wires from the bumper harness to the C265 harness got me working.

Another idea: we decided this method was best because we had the bumper harness already installed and also wanted to keep the weather protection ratings. But if you haven’t already bought/installed the bumper harness, you could accomplish this by getting the oem pigtail for the CCM harness and wiring that to C265 the same way we did. I would have done this had I known what we know now.

Thanks again to the original poster and to @ZSC100 for working with me to get this figured out.

Would you happen to know the part number for that OEM Pigtail?

Edit: Also, @ZSC100 maybe you might know?

 

[wighty]

Other than that, the original guide, plus the additional 4 wires from the bumper harness to the C265 harness got me working.

How long of a run were those wires?

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