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Drive modes comparison -- what does each one do?

RickKeen

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Seems like offroad is a pretty good driving mode for very snowy conditions as well. You want real brakes in snow so the ABS is active.
"Off Road" mode might be good for deeper snow, but I am not sure it is a good choice for on-road with only light snow.

"Normal" mode seemed the most well-mannered today in the snowy road driving I was doing.
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TaxmanHog

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I think the drive modes are basically the difference in how the regeneration takes places, such as hardly any in Normal mode, much more in Sport mode, even more in Tow mode, etc. I drive quite a bit in Sport mode when in city traffic, because, unlike One-Pedal mode, it is not NEARLY as dramatic and I don't necessarily want to come to a full stop every time I lift the pedal, maybe I just want to slow my momentum.
Even when Towing, I don't use TOW MODE>.... I don't really see it's value. It's certainly not doing anything 'special' just because you are towing. It's also not engaging the Max Tow additional cooling since that is always in play, regardless.

OffRoad mode is different. It is supposing that you are going in 'slow mode', and the pedal may take more pressure to get it 'up to speed', etc. And, while it may automatically engage the fixed Differential, you can also disengage that.
Ford F-150 Lightning Drive modes comparison -- what does each one do? 1671724261000


My experience using Tow Mode, is that there is no 1PD but blended braking with modest regen occurs when I use the brake pedal it also engages my trailer brakes via the trailer brake controller.

I have not experienced aggressive regen, it is present and helps with grade/hill descent control where there is good road/highway traction, but they do warn it could cut out and be prepared for foot braking.
 

Tedmister2

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I have only towed a very small motorcycle hauler / trailer.
No electric trailer brakes.

Towing this light trailer in normal or sport mode does stay between 1.9 to 2.2 kw/mile

Towing in tow mode returns 1.3 to 1.5 kw/mile on display.

I think the mode programs are not specific enough for load weights between the modes.
It would be interesting to use a logging device to gather real time kw/ mile data.

Just my observations with no heavier trailers to compare with. I guess I could drive for a few days without the trailer in tow mode and see what the range and kw/mile results show.

Anyone else tried to see range differences while towing in each mode?
 

hturnerfamily

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MODES are simply that: driving modes. They only serve to give you a 'sense' that they are better at something than one of the others. None provide anything 'better' than the others, it's all about personal preference, in the long run. 'TOW mode' does not make towing better. 'SPORT' Mode does not mean you are 'sportier'... 'NORMAL' is certainly NOT normal : )


unlike gas and diesel vehicles where a TRANSMISSION is in play, and suspension changes/options can come into play, EVs have no transmission, and therefore, the only thing that 'MODE' does Is change the amount of REGENERATION(slowing) when you come off the GO pedal.
One other change that MODE makes is an artificial change of the GO pedal, as far as how much you have to 'push' it to get the power going... SPORT is less/quicker, NORMAL is more/slower, etc. But, in the end, that is simply more of a psychological difference, than a physical one.
 

TaxmanHog

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Towing this light trailer in normal or sport mode does stay between 1.9 to 2.2 kw/mile

Towing in tow mode returns 1.3 to 1.5 kw/mile on display.
The trailer lighting wire harness should trigger a default trailer profile which lowers the projected range by as much as half, providing a custom profile based on trailer dimension might cause the range estimate to be better or worse than the default profile, these values are guesses until you put a few miles on the rig, the Lightning will adapt the projected range.

BTW, when ever I write about efficiency, I use mile per kilowatt-hour aka [MPK]

BBTW: driving modes also affect steering responsiveness, accelerator and braking sensitivity.

BBBTW: I have not done a back to back study of drive modes while pulling my trailer.
 

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Tedmister2

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Thanks for your information. If kw/mile is confusing I am sorry. I skipped the hour abbreviation because I thought it is understood but I can see your point. I use them interchangeably and was not being precise. The trailer lights connection does warn that I was not in tow mode but is able to be overridden. Thanks for the comment and let me know if you ever test your energy usage in different modes while towing. Thanks again.
 

TheWoo

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Thanks for your information. If kw/mile is confusing I am sorry. I skipped the hour abbreviation because I thought it is understood but I can see your point. I use them interchangeably and was not being precise. The trailer lights connection does warn that I was not in tow mode but is able to be overridden. Thanks for the comment and let me know if you ever test your energy usage in different modes while towing. Thanks again.
The biggest issue is that you have kW/mile, not mi/kWh. If it's taking you 1.9 kWh to go a mile, you're only getting about 0.45 mi/kWh. 😉
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