Ford Perimeter Plus Security System

[mattskr]

Added this to my 23 Platinum that had the deletion at factory. This is a fantastic cheap and simple mod. I had this feature on my old F-150 and liked having it for the extra piece of mind.

As a side note my dad's '23 gas F-150 which was built the same week as mine also had the delete. Before ordering the part I pulled down the overhead console and crazy as it may sound he already had the sensors. They just didn't activate them. So plugged in Forscan and now he has the feature as well.

I also think it's a little funny that the blank dummy piece also has an official part number.

Sponsored

 

[richguy82]

I noticed my Lariat has a fine, somewhat see through mesh covering the slots where the sensors go. Does this affect operation in any way? Should I remove it?

 

[digitaldad]

I also think it's a little funny that the blank dummy piece also has an official part number.

I was looking on eBay before I purchased said part from ford online parts dealer; the eBay post had the official part number on the title and details but showed the dummy box in the pictures

 

[Mmiketa]

I got this installed over the weekend, but it does not seem very sensitive. If my window is open I can stick my arm in and it does not go off.

 

[mattskr]

I got this installed over the weekend, but it does not seem very sensitive. If my window is open I can stick my arm in and it does not go off.

You need to get closer to the middle of the vehicle near the console / cup holder area which is where most thieves will be poking around.

I don't think you want it to be super-sensitive. On my last F-150 I had a moth living in my truck and it set off the motion sensor multiple times every night until I finally got it out.

 

[Jim Lewis]

Thanks to all the great posts in this thread, I finally decided to bite the bullet and try installing the infrared sensor in my 2023 Lariat ER. When I went to order the part (LC5Z-15K609-A) from Lakeland Ford Parts, they sent me an e-mail that their parts database showed, based on my VIN #, that the sensor was NOT compatible with my '23 Lariat ER. Since way back in July '24, I tried to pull the overhead console down by tugging on the open sunglass case door and felt I was going to break off the door before the dang console came loose, I decided the fewer times I tried to pry the console out of the ceiling, the better and I just ordered the part anyway, rather than trying to check in advance if the dummy box or the real sensor were in place with the right wiring. I've ordered a set of Tresalto pry tools, too.

I was wondering, though, for the long-term, if Ford thinks that part isn't in 2023 vehicles, whether they'd eventually expunge the necessary code to support the infrared sensor out of the various modules? Perhaps it's not a big deal for the $53 cost with shipping and a modest amount of installation work, and I'll just enjoy whatever functionality I get while it lasts.

 

[Jim Lewis]

Based on the pictures of the replacement part they installed, I see other folks have had the same thing happen. My replacement part came in packaging labeled LC5Z15K609A and "Made in Germany." However, the product itself has LC5T15K609BA on it, and it says "Made in Poland." ChatGPT says this is relatively typical of Ford Motor Company. In @mrau's excellent write-up, he has the same packaging/part label discrepancy; only his infrared sensor is labeled "Made in Germany." I haven't ordered that many Ford service parts in my life (like #2), so there's hope in time that I'll get used to this nonsense (as long as the part ordered works and lasts a long time!).

 

[Jim Lewis]

My replacement part came in packaging labeled LC5Z15K609A and "Made in Germany." However, the product itself has LC5T15K609BA on it, and it says "Made in Poland." ChatGPT says this is relatively typical of Ford Motor Company.

Lakeland Ford Parts gave me the following explanation of Ford's part number policy and a link to Ford's own explication...

The number stamped/embossed/stickered on the product (LC5T15K609BA) will never match the number on the outside of the box. The number on the box is the service part number while the number physically on the part is the engineering number, these numbers will never match.

Engineering numbers are used during production of the product prior to being packaged for sale, hence the reason you only see it on the part. Once the product is packaged for sale it is assigned a service number (in this case it is LC5Z15K609A) which is used by dealers to maintain their inventory and sell product to customers.

We hope this explanation offers some clarification, if you would like additional confirmation this is a good site to look at: https://www.fordification.com/tech/partnumbers_overview.htm

I suggested that they include at least a link to the Ford page on the packing slip they include with the part shipped. It would help Ford part ordering newbies like me understand the Alice in Wonderland nature of Ford part numbers and "Made in xxxx" on the packaging that doesn't match the "Made in yyyy" on the part.

 

[majorgearhead]

7D0-09-04 xxx* xxxx XX--

The first Octet needs a 1 also where the astrick is. I just added this to my flash

Linbus initialization is also needed

To understand this particular setting line is only for 2024?

 

[bmwhitetx]

To understand this particular setting line is only for 2024?

That’s my understanding. However it appears that value is already a 1 on 24’s.

 

[majorgearhead]

After reading this thread, I ordered and got the missing part and installed it today. This could not be easier. A few tips to help anyone struggling through it.

1. I was able to get the control panel with sunroof controls down without a pry tool. I opened the sunglass holder and pulled down from the outer edge while holding the inside of the holder. It’s important to note when folks say start at the back, they mean the back as it relates to the cars orientation so opposite of the windshield. I worked some fingers in on the drivers side closest to me and was able to pull the console down with a little effort.

2. Remove the 6 screws holding the black plastic shroud to give you better access to place the sensors.

3. For the sensors I places the end opposite the wire in first and was able to click them in. It is tricky as they are slanted a bit.

4. Programming was spot on from the previous post using Forscan. Had no issues here at all.

Initialized linbus and then tested. It worked like a charm. I love that for 30 something odd bucks I can add this useful feature back. Locked the car with my windows down and reached inside to the middle which set the alarm off. Especially love that alarm reporting is built into the FordPass app. This is seriously one of my favorite cheap mods.

Thank you to all who contributed to this thread especially with Forscan programming. I don’t think this could be easier.

 

[21st Century Truck]

Having a Pro, I'm in a similar situation as you where I'd need to open up the slits for the sensors to work. If it helps, I believe that these are the parts you'd need for a DIY harness running to the BCM (but I have not verified yet):

Sensor Connector: TE 1241634-1
Sensor Connector Pins: TE 5-928999-1

You can pick up ground from the overhead console harness (pin 6).

Edit: Also, I believe that these are the two pins you'd need to use for connecting to both BCM modules (but, again, I have not yet verified)

Power - C2280C Pin 15 (Fuse # 11)
LIN Bus - C2280E Pin 36 (LINbus # BCM # 3)

So the sensor (the missing sensor that we are all emplacing or trying to emplace in the overhead bin) has four (4) wire male pins in its connector.

The DIY wiring harness here and in Jesse Infotainment's diagram has three DIY wires.

So when DIY-emplacing the new wires, which wire goes to which of the four sensor pins, and which sensor pin should remain as the unconnected orphan? Thanks in advance! ...maybe I had missed something in one of the previous posts.

 

[watts/up]

So the sensor (the missing sensor that we are all emplacing or trying to emplace in the overhead bin) has four (4) wire male pins in its connector.

The DIY wiring harness here and in Jesse Infotainment's diagram has three DIY wires.

So when DIY-emplacing the new wires, which wire goes to which of the four sensor pins, and which sensor pin should remain as the unconnected orphan? Thanks in advance! ...maybe I had missed something in one of the previous posts.

So, I haven't done this mod yet and I don't have the sensor, but I have made the harness so I can add it in the future. I wired the connector based on the attached diagram provided previously by Jesse. If I read it correctly, it looks like we need pins 1-3 (highlighted in pink) and the fourth is not used:

Pin 1: VBATT
Pin 2: LIN 3
Pin 3: Gnd

 

[21st Century Truck]

So, I haven't done this mod yet and I don't have the sensor, but I have made the harness so I can add it in the future. I wired the connector based on the attached diagram provided previously by Jesse. If I read it correctly, it looks like we need pins 1-3 (highlighted in pink) and the fourth is not used:

Pin 1: VBATT
Pin 2: LIN 3
Pin 3: Gnd

Gotcha... I remember that diagram. I'm ginning up my DIY wiring now, hence my question.

Of note, this is what the sensor's four male pins look like... hence my pin order question. Pls see attached pic.

 

[21st Century Truck]

Gotcha... I remember that diagram. I'm ginning up my DIY wiring now, hence my question.

Of note, this is what the sensor's four male pins look like... hence my pin order question. Pls see attached pic.

Another way to indirectly confirm the DIY female pin placement and assignment is for anyone here who does have the OEM wiring connection already present, to share a pic of what the female pin connector looks like, with the three present female pins visible (to establish which of the sensor's four male pins is unused).

Sponsored