rugedraw
Well-known member
Your issue is different and requires a different and rather PITA of a process. Message sent.Just sent you a PM.
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Your issue is different and requires a different and rather PITA of a process. Message sent.Just sent you a PM.
Have you actually tried charging the truck in full-accessory mode with the truck plugged into its charger (FCSP for me)? It works, and I have the evidence from Car Scanner to prove it. Have never tried a non-FCSP charger, so I don't know what happens with other devices. See the post below for actual Car Scanner readings and video of charging port LEDs indicating power transfer from FCSP in full-accessory mode while not charging HVB above my set HVB limit.Pretty much this. The 12V battery charges when the truck is "on" (ready to drive), but not when in accessory mode. It also charges when the truck is plugged in and actively charging the HV battery. It will not charge when the truck is plugged in after charging is complete. I've also heard there's also a situation when it will charge the 12V battery when it gets critically low while the truck is parked and then put the truck in sleep mode.
Likely I was the "another poster," as I've been advising full-accessory mode while plugged in for some time on the forum as opposed to the wear-and-tear and wasted time of going for a "long drive" just to charge the LVB. Lately, I've been removing my right front frunk cover and charging the LVB daily with a trickle charger (Noco Genius2), as I only drive several times a week for short drives except for ~once-a-month 180-mile roundtrips. When an Inhibit Mode update becomes available, I'll use charging in full-accessory mode while plugged in to get the truck's LVB well above 80% SOC.The driving around for 1 hour routine did not charge up my 12v battery enough - so I resorted to this base on what another poster had said worked to get the battery up to 90% allowing updates to go through.
I agree with this. I messaged the OP and told him he didn't have to drive it around. The "driving around" method is applicable to the ICE vehicles that use an alternator, but that tid-bit of advice is pre-programmed into my thought process based on most of my dealings having been with ICE vehicles.Likely I was the "another poster," as I've been advising full-accessory mode while plugged in for some time on the forum as opposed to the wear-and-tear and wasted time of going for a "long drive" just to charge the LVB.
Yes I think it may have been your post that I followed and succeeded in working to get the update, thanks!Have you actually tried charging the truck in full-accessory mode with the truck plugged into its charger (FCSP for me)? It works, and I have the evidence from Car Scanner to prove it. Have never tried a non-FCSP charger, so I don't know what happens with other devices. See the post below for actual Car Scanner readings and video of charging port LEDs indicating power transfer from FCSP in full-accessory mode while not charging HVB above my set HVB limit.
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...ings-bms-sensor-replacement.17900/post-361761
Likely I was the "another poster," as I've been advising full-accessory mode while plugged in for some time on the forum as opposed to the wear-and-tear and wasted time of going for a "long drive" just to charge the LVB. Lately, I've been removing my right front frunk cover and charging the LVB daily with a trickle charger (Noco Genius2), as I only drive several times a week for short drives except for ~once-a-month 180-mile roundtrips. When an Inhibit Mode update becomes available, I'll use charging in full-accessory mode while plugged in to get the truck's LVB well above 80% SOC.
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/starting-to-get-lvb-12v-warnings.19631/post-404833
Good news! Coincidentally I was able to get my update to push through as well, thanks to @rugedraw. Turns out I was having the "BMS Poor Data Quality" issue. I did the following procedure:It finally updated!! I took the truck for a 1/2 hour drive and forced the update when I got home.
Credit for that goes to Mach-Lee over on the Mach E forum. He put a lot of research into priming the LVB's to be in optimal condition for OTA's.Good news! Coincidentally I was able to get my update to push through as well, thanks to @rugedraw. Turns out I was having the "BMS Poor Data Quality" issue. I did the following procedure:
BMS Poor Data Quality
lf I tell you your OTAs are failing because of poor BMS data quality, please follow these steps. (Note: this is rare.) Conditions: The car must be parked with a 12V load of less than 200 mA for greater than 6 continuous hours without interruption. This is necessary for the BMS to accurately learn the 12V SoC and clear the data quality flag.
If the above procedure doesn't work, charge up the 12V battery and reset the BMS, then repeat. If it still fails, you may have an unresolved 12V drain issue that requires additional diagnosis.
- Disconnect any and all accessories from the vehicle including hardwired dashcams, dashcam batteries, radar detectors, OBD port scan devices, 12V battery chargers etc. (Verify no fuses are tapped, nothing plugged in to OBD port, 12V ports, USB ports, or connected to the 12V battery).
- Fully close all windows and doors
- Remove all key fobs from the vehicle and place them at least 25' away (including vertically)
- Park the car on the street or in a parking lot to meet distance requirements if you have a small home
- Disable Bluetooth on your phone(s) so PAAK connections are not possible
- Disable any apps or widgets that ping the car for data
- Fully unplug the car (no charging of any kind, including 12V)
- Park the vehicle undisturbed for 6+ hours (8 hours recommended)
- Do not open, lock, or unlock any doors during this sleep period, ping the vehicle, refresh FordPass status, or cause any lights or screens to activate
- After the undisturbed sleep period, you may turn on the car for 30 minutes and proceed with the update.
I have one of the FITCAMX dash cameras (front and rear) which if I had to guess was the issue with the update not coming through. I charged to 66% (arbitrary), unplugged the truck, disconnected the dash cam (reconnected wiring to rearview mirror), took both truck keys and placed them on the other side of the house, turned off auto updates, turned off auto wipers and headlights, locked the doors and we both slept with our bluetooth off for the night. Let the truck sit for just over 8 hours, went out with the key (bluetooth on both phones still off), turned on accessory mode, initiated the update and it went through right away. Immediately following, an update for 6.8.0 went through successfully on the first attempt.
I finally have the battery percentage displayed next to the visual level indicator on the left of the dash. I've been waiting for that for quite some time now.
Thanks again to @rugedraw and this community to the wealth of information and willingness to help.
@rugedraw I’m having a similar issue, can you please help me as well? I sent you a PM, I’ll also try this in the mean time.Send me the VIN. It is most likely failing due to low battery stats.
VIN 1FT6W1EVXPWGnnnnnSend me the VIN. It is most likely failing due to low battery stats.
Please remove the VIN from the post and message it to me. I'll check it tomorrow.This is also happening to my 2023 Lightning Lariat ER