'MORE' 240v power than you thought .... SUCCESS!

[Toby57]

Load them if you can. Run something on each. 120 and 240. Not at the same time.
A DMM will, under certain circumstances, read voltage where there is none.
Not saying it is your circumstance, but you may want to look into ghost voltage.

Sponsored

 

[Adventureboy]

I believe @Maquis and @biers are correct on this. You will not be able to draw more than 7.2kw from the bed inverters regardless of how you plug in adapters. If you draw the full 30A from the L6-30, you will kick out the inverter if you plug anything into the 120v outlets.
A simple L6-30 splitter will give you an additional (and safer) 240v outlet if you need it but you won't be able to exceed the 30A inverter limit.

 

[wiffleballpractice]

I'm simply making the proven case that you CAN create 240v power from two of the 120v outlets... my ampMeter obviously SHOWS this is the case...

now, as to the argument of whether these two SETS of 120v 20amp outlets in the BED are 'only' from the REAR 120v/240v inverter, or whether they originate from the two DIFFERENT inverters, is up to more digging...

I may try some more TESTING today... if it's not too 'brrrrrrr' COLD!!!!

The single 240V plug is doing the exact same thing that you are going with your combiner/adapter, so it's not at all surprising that the voltage between the "A" plugs and the "B" plugs is 240V.

All you need to do to prove the second point is plug something in and observe the pro power screen. Based off all available evidence, you will find that these are the A and B circuits/phases of the rear 7.2kW inverter.

I appreciate that you're curious, but I strongly suggest you go do some more reading before playing around with electrical equipment.

 

[hturnerfamily]

I've VERY comfortable with electricity, with MANY years of dealing with all sorts of situations and scenarios and adapters and wiring my own power pedestals, meters, power poles, main and subpanels, etc... no worries.

My Truck now has the ACTIVE ProPower available, after letting it sit for a while... which I've seen before. While some of these 'errors' or 'defaults' are puckering moments, I think the truck needs time to sort it out.

So, all is good.

Now, as for the 240v 'total' output from the rear outlets, or rear INVERTER, yes, I think we can assume that you will only receive a total of 7.2kw from the rear outlets, and a SEPARATE 2.4kw from the front INVERTER... although, yes, you can create another 240v output source with the two rear outlets, if needed. Will it ever be needed? Hmmmm, probably not, but who knows. Nice to have the option,

 

[ScubaSteve_TheReal]

I've VERY comfortable with electricity, with MANY years of dealing with all sorts of situations and scenarios and adapters and wiring my own power pedestals, meters, power poles, main and subpanels, etc... no worries.

My Truck now has the ACTIVE ProPower available, after letting it sit for a while... which I've seen before. While some of these 'errors' or 'defaults' are puckering moments, I think the truck needs time to sort it out.

So, all is good.

Now, as for the 240v 'total' output from the rear outlets, or rear INVERTER, yes, I think we can assume that you will only receive a total of 7.2kw from the rear outlets, and a SEPARATE 2.4kw from the front INVERTER... although, yes, you can create another 240v output source with the two rear outlets, if needed. Will it ever be needed? Hmmmm, probably not, but who knows. Nice to have the option,

Thanks to the OP
I am in agreement with your findings so far.
Appreciate your findings and kudos for sharing with the rest of us.

 

[Whammy Bar]

I mean no disrespect here, but how did you think the 240 outlet got its power?? This is just a weaker version of that with $60+ in adapters.

Good job I guess?

 

[hturnerfamily]

yes, my first thought was that one of the set of outlets in the BED was, like other trucks without the optional 9.6kw ProPower, where originating from the front inverter - that may not be the case, and Ford may have a different wiring configuration when the 9.6kw option is used, provided ALL the power to ALL the bed outlets from the single rear 120/240v inverter.

so, yes, it seems redundant, and a 'weaker' option versus the provided 30amp twist-lock outlet, but it does give MORE options for special situations. If I'm making use of the provided 30amp 240v outlet, and yet I have a reason to need ANOTHER 240v output, here's the way to do it.

cheers!

 

[wiffleballpractice]

Funny story, it's actually only weaker in that you need the adapter setup. In this thread we learned that those "20 AMP" outlets are actually perfectly content providing 30 amps, or at least they were when it was posted. I certainly don't suggest doing that, but seemed relevant.

 

[hturnerfamily]

...those "20 AMP" outlets are actually perfectly content providing 30 amps...

I see, and it's good to know. These are, yes, 15/20amp outlets, although there is nothing to say that they cannot handle 30amps, especially for a short time, and if the wiring is of the correct awg. I suspect that since there is no '120v 30amp' regular household type outlet, they just used these, instead. It also may be that no one 'thought' about limiting the output on these outlets, since they may be tied into/split off of the same wiring as the 30amp outlet. Since the software apparently 'knows' what wattage/amperage is being used on each circuit, it would seem sensible that a 'limit' would be provided by the truck, BUT, if the outlets are simply sharing the same wiring as the 30amp outlet, then, NO, there would be little way to 'limit' or 'trip' these outlets, on their own, other than the 'total' amperage output per circuit, which is 30.
In my '240volt' scenario, it means you could then also pull the same power thru adapters to these outlets, versus using the twist-lock 30amp outlet, OR in ADDITION TO using it.. if a situation would warrant that, such as needing to power to 'lower amperage' 240v devices at the same time. Probably not a typical usage, but one never knows... : )

 

[ScubaSteve_TheReal]

I see, and it's good to know. These are, yes, 15/20amp outlets, although there is nothing to say that they cannot handle 30amps, especially for a short time, and if the wiring is of the correct awg. I suspect that since there is no '120v 30amp' regular household type outlet, they just used these, instead. It also may be that no one 'thought' about limiting the output on these outlets, since they may be tied into/split off of the same wiring as the 30amp outlet. Since the software apparently 'knows' what wattage/amperage is being used on each circuit, it would seem sensible that a 'limit' would be provided by the truck, BUT, if the outlets are simply sharing the same wiring as the 30amp outlet, then, NO, there would be little way to 'limit' or 'trip' these outlets, on their own, other than the 'total' amperage output per circuit, which is 30.
In my '240volt' scenario, it means you could then also pull the same power thru adapters to these outlets, versus using the twist-lock 30amp outlet, OR in ADDITION TO using it.. if a situation would warrant that, such as needing to power to 'lower amperage' 240v devices at the same time. Probably not a typical usage, but one never knows... : )

Yes I’m in agreement in your thoughts also. Appreciate your sharing.
I too have these same adapters from the RV days and cabin cruiser boating and it’s shore power usage etc.
I’ve learned this statement “Probably not a typical usage, but one never knows...” to be more common than some think.

 

[cdherman]

Be very careful with "circuit combiners" that take two 120v outlets on opposite sides of the system and combine them to get 240v.

Why? Because the neutral is being shared, and should one of the two 120v plugs get unplugged while there is a load on the 240v, the neutral on the unplugged 120v male plug CAN BECOME HOT, AS IN ENERGIZED.

When I bought my first Leaf, lots of guys were doing this to get 240v charging without having a 240v plug. There were more refined solutions too, that involved relays to avoid the possibility of the aforementioned event.

I built one for grins, but never really used it. Not only did mine have relays, but I also built in a voltimeter so I could see the voltage with no load and see how much the voltage fell with a load. Anything over about 3% drop indicates that you are putting strain on the circuits somewhere and over hours (think plugging in an EV) melted wires or worse could occur.

I wonder if the front inverter is even a 240v inverter (ie, do 120v plugs in front also have 240v across opposite plugs?) Someone could go stick a voltimeter across the hots in the front to find out. If your voltimeter aways shows zero, then its a 120v inverter. I'm back in KC and the Lightning is 300 miles away, so I cannot.

 

[hturnerfamily]

I don't suspect the front inverter is anything other than 120volts... since it is providing only 120v power, shared with maybe 6 outlets(4 in the frunk, two in the cab)...although, there IS something that suggest that it might be a 240v inverter: the ability to turn ON, or OFF, the Frunk outlets. Interesting.

 

[ScubaSteve_TheReal]

I don't suspect the front inverter is anything other than 120volts... since it is providing only 120v power, shared with maybe 6 outlets(4 in the frunk, two in the cab)...although, there IS something that suggest that it might be a 240v inverter: the ability to turn ON, or OFF, the Frunk outlets. Interesting.

This would be good to know either way.
Definitely hope to find out one way or the other.

 

[hturnerfamily]

TESTED: and success...
REAR Bed outlets, while '20amp', actually carry up to the 30amp Max, each.

O.k., so I wanted to test my theory that the rear Bed outlets, while shown/labeled as '20amp 120v' outlets, with two being on circuit 'A', and two being on circuit 'B', actually SHARE the power with the 30amp 240v 'twist-lock' outlet, for those of us with the additional/optional 9.6kw ProPower Onboard.

Here's photos of what I used to test: 2 HEATERS, on high, with Max requirements of 1,500watts each, and then adding a TOASTER, which is a max of 700watts. These totals add up to more than 30amps(3,700 watts), which is MORE than the onscreen '3,600 watts' Max for each A/B circuit.

The two heaters, at approximately 25 amps total, worked fine.
Adding the toaster, with another requirement of about 5.8 amps, put it right over the edge, TRIPPING the rear Bed 'A' circuit. Pushing the circuit 'reset' button, right above the set of outlets, instantly RESTORED power.

So, all this means is that you actually have the FULL 30amps of 120volt power from each SET of rear BED Outlets, not just 20amps. Since these circuits, A and B, are on the different 'sides' of power, meaning they share the 240v power wiring/breakers, EACH SET OF OUTLETS can carry up to 30amps.
The 'twist-lock' 240v Outlet can ALSO carry up to 30amps, at 240volts, of course.
You are really limited in the following ways:
A) 30amps at 240v solely from the 'twist-lock' Outlet
B) 30amps from EACH of the A and B 'regular' outlets, at the same time
C) or a combination/sharing of all of the above.

for some of us nerdy electrical owners, this is really good news, as even though the stated '20amp' outlets are good for regular everyday typical usage, they can also be used in other ways, even BEYOND the 20amp stated amperage, if just for a short time, or with an adapter to create ANOTHER 240v output, etc. : ) Sweet.



Using the TWO 1,500w heaters, on HIGH... just slightly less than the 30amp circuit limit...worked fine.

the TWO heaters on HIGH, for 3,000 watts, or close to it...still working fine.

when adding the TOASTER, at about 700watts, this took the amperage over 30amps, or over 3,600watts, and tripping the 'breaker'... and all the usage fell back to '0' on the screen. Resetting the breaker above the outlet instantly RESTORED power to the outlets.

 

[ScubaSteve_TheReal]

TESTED: and success...
REAR Bed outlets, while '20amp', actually carry up to the 30amp Max, each.

O.k., so I wanted to test my theory that the rear Bed outlets, while shown/labeled as '20amp 120v' outlets, with two being on circuit 'A', and two being on circuit 'B', actually SHARE the power with the 30amp 240v 'twist-lock' outlet, for those of us with the additional/optional 9.6kw ProPower Onboard.

Here's photos of what I used to test: 2 HEATERS, on high, with Max requirements of 1,500watts each, and then adding a TOASTER, which is a max of 700watts. These totals add up to more than 30amps(3,700 watts), which is MORE than the onscreen '3,600 watts' Max for each A/B circuit.

The two heaters, at approximately 25 amps total, worked fine.
Adding the toaster, with another requirement of about 5.8 amps, put it right over the edge, TRIPPING the rear Bed 'A' circuit. Pushing the circuit 'reset' button, right above the set of outlets, instantly RESTORED power.

So, all this means is that you actually have the FULL 30amps of 120volt power from each SET of rear BED Outlets, not just 20amps. Since these circuits, A and B, are on the different 'sides' of power, meaning they share the 240v power wiring/breakers, EACH SET OF OUTLETS can carry up to 30amps.
The 'twist-lock' 240v Outlet can ALSO carry up to 30amps, at 240volts, of course.
You are really limited in the following ways:
A) 30amps at 240v solely from the 'twist-lock' Outlet
B) 30amps from EACH of the A and B 'regular' outlets, at the same time
C) or a combination/sharing of all of the above.

for some of us nerdy electrical owners, this is really good news, as even though the stated '20amp' outlets are good for regular everyday typical usage, they can also be used in other ways, even BEYOND the 20amp stated amperage, if just for a short time, or with an adapter to create ANOTHER 240v output, etc. : ) Sweet.



Using the TWO 1,500w heaters, on HIGH... just slightly less than the 30amp circuit limit...worked fine.

the TWO heaters on HIGH, for 3,000 watts, or close to it...still working fine.

when adding the TOASTER, at about 700watts, this took the amperage over 30amps, or over 3,600watts, and tripping the 'breaker'... and all the usage fell back to '0' on the screen. Resetting the breaker above the outlet instantly RESTORED power to the outlets.

Great information, thank you!