Outlet power

[RichB-HTX]

I just used one outlet to power my fridge, fans, lamps, coffee machine and device chargers after a hurricane and it got me thinking how much power is available to each outlet. I kind of found an answer but it was not clear whether the quoted power was for each individual plug receptacle or each pair. I asked ChatGzpT and it says the quoted power is per pair of outlets. Is this correct?

Chatgpt:”For the Ford F-150 Lightning, the power quoted for the outlets typically applies to the total available power for each set or pair of outlets, not each individual receptacle. This means that if you have a pair of outlets rated for a certain wattage, that wattage is shared between both outlets. For instance, if a pair of 120V outlets is rated for 2.4 kW, then the combined draw from both outlets should not exceed 2.4 kW.”

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[Green1]

Ford makes this slightly complicated, there are actually multiple inverters in the truck powering different outlets. The frunk combined is 2.4 kW, whereas in the back it is split into two separate banks with each pair of 120 outlets having their own limit, or the 240 volt outlet combining both of them. I believe the outlet inside the vehicle is again on its own completely separate circuit.

 

[carys98]

Ford makes this slightly complicated, there are actually multiple inverters in the truck powering different outlets. The frunk combined is 2.4 kW, whereas in the back it is split into two separate banks with each pair of 120 outlets having their own limit, or the 240 volt outlet combining both of them. I believe the outlet inside the vehicle is again on its own completely separate circuit.

The cab and the frunk share the 120V 20A inverter. The outlets in the back can supply 30A.

 

[Green1]

The cab and the frunk share the 120V 20A inverter. The outlets in the back can supply 30A.

I've heard that before, however I question it, because in the pro power on board menu, you can turn off the interior ones without turning off the frunk ones and vice versa, in fact the interior one is always on unless you specifically turn it off, whereas the ones in the frunk are not on unless you explicitly turn them on. Now technically, they could simply have separate relays to turn on it off the outlets but always leave the inverter on, but that seems like extra complication for very little benefit (not that I would put that past ford....)

 

[carys98]

I've heard that before, however I question it, because in the pro power on board menu, you can turn off the interior ones without turning off the frunk ones and vice versa, in fact the interior one is always on unless you specifically turn it off, whereas the ones in the frunk are not on unless you explicitly turn them on. Now technically, they could simply have separate relays to turn on it off the outlets but always leave the inverter on, but that seems like extra complication for very little benefit (not that I would put that past ford....)

I think they separate them because the frunk is limited to 400W (3.3A) when closed to prevent heat build up. That allows the frunk to shut off without turning off the cabin outlets.

 

[Maquis]

I've heard that before, however I question it, because in the pro power on board menu, you can turn off the interior ones without turning off the frunk ones and vice versa, in fact the interior one is always on unless you specifically turn it off, whereas the ones in the frunk are not on unless you explicitly turn them on. Now technically, they could simply have separate relays to turn on it off the outlets but always leave the inverter on, but that seems like extra complication for very little benefit (not that I would put that past ford....)

A pair of relays is less complicated than a pair of inverters.

 

[Green1]

A pair of relays is less complicated than a pair of inverters.

You are correct, however one inverter and no relays is certainly simpler than one inverter with a pair of relays. The fact that they put separate shut offs in implies separate inverters, because why bother with the relays otherwise.

 

[Maquis]

You are correct, however one inverter and no relays is certainly simpler than one inverter with a pair of relays. The fact that they put separate shut offs in implies separate inverters, because why bother with the relays otherwise.

There are not separate inverters. It’s a single 2.4 KW unit. You can pull the full power from just the frunk. If there was another inverter, the total rated output of ProPower would be more than 9.6 KW. 7.2 in the bed and 2.4 in the frunk/cabin.

 

[hturnerfamily]

we tested the BED outlets, and since they ALL are powered via the rear 240v Inverter, at a max of 30amps @ 240v for the twist-lock outlet, the other Bed 'household' outlets are ALSO 30amps, just at 120v each.
Now, the TOTAL of the inverter's output is 30amps 'per side' of power, since 240v is simply the combination of TWO 120v hot lines: So the 240v outlet is maxed at 30amps @ 240v, and the 'household' outlets are maxed at 30amps @ 120v, for EACH PAIR.
Meaning: you essentially have up to 60amps of 120v power out of the rear outlets, in most any combination, 240v and 120v, and as long as neither of the 'sets' of 'household' outlets each exceeds 30amps.
You could have a 240v 15amp EVSE out of the twist-lock outlet, and at the same time
have a TOASTER at 10amps out of one of the regular 'household' outlets, and also a
4amp mini-fridge on one of the other bed outlets...

Maybe confusing, but it gives owners really a LOT of options when it comes to meeting almost ANY need that may arise.
If you add in the Frunk and Cab's combined 20amp @ 120v output, that's just icing on the cake.

also, to test these Bed 'regular' outlets, I had to really get a LOT of power going from those outlets, and had to use two HEATERs, on high, each at about 12-14 amps, which kept both working just fine, at about 25-28 amps.
I then added a TOASTER, which probably runs at about the same 12-14 amps when in operation. The outlets held, for a while, but then tripped, of course, as the amperage, and the HEAT at the breaker, exceeded the 30amp capacity.

I also, at the same time, kept an eye on the ProPower output SCREEN to 'see' what amperage/wattage was being output. Yes, while the two heaters showed about 3,000 to 3,360 watts, while operating, the toaster took this past the 3,600 limit.
Remember, too, that this was for ONE side of the Bed's 240v Inverter output. So, essentially, you could test BOTH of the sets of outlets, doing this same test, simultaneously, since the total output at the rear is TWICE that of 3,600 watts: 7,200 watts, or 60 amps@120v/30amps@240v.

 

[Green1]

we tested the BED outlets, and since they ALL are powered via the rear 240v Inverter, at a max of 30amps @ 240v for the twist-lock outlet, the other Bed 'household' outlets are ALSO 30amps, just at 120v each.
Now, the TOTAL of the inverter's output is 30amps 'per side' of power, since 240v is simply the combination of TWO 120v hot lines: So the 240v outlet is maxed at 30amps @ 240v, and the 'household' outlets are maxed at 30amps @ 120v, for EACH PAIR.
Meaning: you essentially have up to 60amps of 120v power out of the rear outlets, in most any combination, 240v and 120v, and as long as neither of the 'sets' of 'household' outlets each exceeds 30amps.
You could have a 240v 15amp EVSE out of the twist-lock outlet, and at the same time
have a TOASTER at 10amps out of one of the regular 'household' outlets, and also a
4amp mini-fridge on one of the other bed outlets...

Maybe confusing, but it gives owners really a LOT of options when it comes to meeting almost ANY need that may arise.
If you add in the Frunk and Cab's combined 20amp @ 120v output, that's just icing on the cake.

also, to test these Bed 'regular' outlets, I had to really get a LOT of power going from those outlets, and had to use two HEATERs, on high, each at about 12-14 amps, which kept both working just fine, at about 25-28 amps.
I then added a TOASTER, which probably runs at about the same 12-14 amps when in operation. The outlets held, for a while, but then tripped, of course, as the amperage, and the HEAT at the breaker, exceeded the 30amp capacity.

I also, at the same time, kept an eye on the ProPower output SCREEN to 'see' what amperage/wattage was being output. Yes, while the two heaters showed about 3,000 to 3,360 watts, while operating, the toaster took this past the 3,600 limit.
Remember, too, that this was for ONE side of the Bed's 240v Inverter output. So, essentially, you could test BOTH of the sets of outlets, doing this same test, simultaneously, since the total output at the rear is TWICE that of 3,600 watts: 7,200 watts, or 60 amps@120v/30amps@240v.

I sure hope you're wrong about those 120v bed outlets, because they used outlets that are spec'd at 20A and are a 20A standard, it would be really reckless and dangerous if they let you pull 30A through them!

 

[RickLightning]

Chatgpt:”For the Ford F-150 Lightning, the power quoted for the outlets typically applies to the total available power for each set or pair of outlets, not each individual receptacle. This means that if you have a pair of outlets rated for a certain wattage, that wattage is shared between both outlets. For instance, if a pair of 120V outlets is rated for 2.4 kW, then the combined draw from both outlets should not exceed 2.4 kW.”

Never understand why people use AI for answers like this. You can see this one is totally worthless.

 

[hturnerfamily]

I sure hope you're wrong about those 120v bed outlets, because they used outlets that are spec'd at 20A and are a 20A standard, it would be really reckless and dangerous if they let you pull 30A through them!

the reality is that it's very difficult to conceive of anyone being able to 'pull' up to 30amps thru these household outlets, although they can certainly 'handle' it, if that's your fear.

There's probably no single device or appliance that can draw anywhere close to 20amps, much less 30amps...so the idea that it is 'dangerous' to the common user is false. It took me a LOT of effort to find and figure out how to get CLOSE to 30amps, even for my test.

 

[Marcelo Zanetti]

It clearly says on the cover for each outlet A and B (AC 120V/20A or 2.4KW max)

 

[Joe.....Montana]

It clearly says on the cover for each outlet A and B (AC 120V/20A or 2.4KW max)

That's just a "cover" for what they can really do.....

 

[Adventureboy]

I sure hope you're wrong about those 120v bed outlets, because they used outlets that are spec'd at 20A and are a 20A standard, it would be really reckless and dangerous if they let you pull 30A through them!

You can draw more than 20A up to 30A from each bed outlet (one on each split phase of the 240v inverter). I am not sure how Ford got approved to do this on a 20A rated outlet and it certainly begs the question of safety since you can run a single residential grade 15 amp extension cord and light up 30A of gear across it. There may be a few melted cords out there for folks not knowledgeable enough to try this.

I expect this will be fine-tuned in next year's T3 models.

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