Stick to Rotary Shift Knob Conversion w/ 3D Printed Rotary Shifter Holder

[ENDianDigital]

Not a problem, appreciate you posting the files to begin with. I could merge on my end as well, was just trying to strip down as much as possible so I could look at efficient split options that minimize support structures. Difficult with a shell with numerous draft angles.

I've gone ahead and merged all constituent bodies in the step files for the 3 console versions I have up on Thinigiverse. Should be a little easier to handle now.

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[s_c]

I have skimmed this thread and searched for mentions but didn't see anything.

Is it safe to unplug the stock shifter and plug in the new one without disconnecting battery, or are people disconnecting battery? Just don't want to throw any codes as I'm not prepped to clear them.

Thanks

 

[ENDianDigital]

I have skimmed this thread and searched for mentions but didn't see anything.

Is it safe to unplug the stock shifter and plug in the new one without disconnecting battery, or are people disconnecting battery? Just don't want to throw any codes as I'm not prepped to clear them.

Thanks

Good question, so I would imagine that disconnecting the 12v system would be the safest option, but I did several disconnects/reconnects with the truck simply "off". I DID accidentally disconnect once with the truck on or in accessory (can't remember which for sure) and, surprise surprise, it threw all kinds of panic codes. LUCKILY, turning the truck off, reconnecting the shifter and then turning it back on seemed to clear the codes and all was fine afterwards.

 

[dustintinsley]

What did you use to paint the 3d printed part?

 

[sstevetx]

My Bronco sport shifter with the rubberized knob came in and the good news is that it works. Bad news is I accidentally cracked the lip on my printed tub. I can probably glue it or something later or reprint. Here is all the info I have about the shifter, testing, print info and tips. Let me know if I need to add anything else. I added some pics showing it in my printer at an angle, installed and the light blue backlight behind the letters.

I highly encourage you all to tip the designer @ENDianDigital on the Thingiverse page. I know with my various prints that I went through a lot of filament and time. I can only imagine the amount of both that went into designing and testing this.

Edit: I printed a 2nd one (big ass cup version) in PLA for testing and set the walls to 4 and sparse infill to adaptive cubic and it came out nice and strong. My initial print in ASA with the default 2 walls and default infill pattern were likely my problem and shows my inexperience with 3d printing. I highly suggest you add more walls to the default. I added a pic at the bottom of this post of this 2nd print installed.


Shifter Info:

• Shifter Model: LX6P-7P155-LE
• Designed for: 2021 Ford Bronco Sport
• Ebay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/276906882492
• Price Paid: $70 shipped including tax.
• New/Used: Used, but looks great. Bronco sport had 23k on it
• Dial Free Spin: No, it stops at park and drive. I mention this because some of the rotary dials from Ford will free spin without stops. I think I read the 21 Bronco Sport had the stops while the 22 went to free spin.
• Motorized: Yes, you can see the rubber ring/grip rotate to park when in drive and you open the door
• DTCs: None found using CarScanner Pro (Android) with an OBDLink MX+
• Testing: Drove around the block including backing out
• Neutral Works: Yes
• Backlight: There is an orange/red led that follows the PRND. The actual PRND have a light blue backlight AND a light blue ring near the base (goes completely around). The light blue appears to match the rest of the light blue lighting in the truck. Photo taken early in the morning well before sunrise.
• L button: While in neutral, puts it in the 30 minute neutral state. Thanks @Pioneer74

Printer/Filament Info:

• Filament: Sunlu ASA Black for main body. Sunlu TPU for mat
• Printer: Bambu P1S (256x256x256 plate)
• Software: Bambu Studio
• Print Time: 18 hours (normal speed)
• Build Plate: Bambu textured (gold)
• Build Plate Adhesion/Glue: I used a few layers of aquanet hairspray
• Model Used: I used the angled version @wzrdmatt posted earlier (thanks!!). It is the initial model and doesn't include the wireless charger mount or gridfinity. The model appears to be tilted at just under 39 degrees. I played around with the "big ass cup" version recently and the best I could get was 38.5 degrees with the shifter side of the tub at the lower end. Any lower tilt caused the print to be outside of the printable area for my printer. I could tilt into the 50's before hitting the height limits, but it would have needed more supports.

Generic ASA Filament Setting Changes:

• Flow Ratio: 0.92
• Nozzle temperature: 260 initial / 260 other layers
• Textured PEI Plate: 92 / 92

Strength:

• Wall Loops: 4 - Default is 2, but my 1st print was weak. I put 4 on my 2nd print and it is significantly stronger.
• Sparse Infill Pattern: Adaptive cubic - I picked this on my 2nd print over gyroid for speed and to keep my printer from being shaken too much for longevity. A lot of people online suggested adaptive cubic.

Structures:

• Type: tree(auto)
• Style: default
• Threshold angle: 39. I used the angled model I listed above and the 39 is for it specifically. It causes all of the overhangs to be supported since the model is tilted at ~39 degrees.
• Brim: Inner/outer 30 (30 might be overkill, but it is what I used last)

Tips:

• Fold the original shifter down before unplugging it. It will make it easier to store. I am carrying mine in the frunk for a while with a 10mm socket just in case.
• I have the 15" screen and only had to take off the two side trim prices and then used a trim tool to pop off the top trim that covers the shifter and cup holders
• There is a plug under the cupholders you need to remove before fully taking off the top trim
• The plug that goes into the shifter has a gray lever. Press directly behind it (toward rear of truck) and then pull the lever back toward the back of the truck.
• Don't put any weight on the lip around the printed main piece/tub. I did when pushing the shifter into the tub and cracked it (see picture). I can fix it or reprint.
• Don't over tighten the (4)10mm bolts. Although I printed in ASA, it is not the same quality as the factory ABS. I didn't overtighten but could hear it creak as it started to get tight.
• After you cut off the mounting tabs/ears on the shifter, make sure all of it is gone or it won't fit into the 3d print. I used a cutting blade on a rotary tool to cut them off then used a sanding attachment to get it all off.

 

[bmwhitetx]

Too bad about the crack. In another thread on a shifter change-out, they used the OEM cubby that comes with the stalk shifter F-150.

I wonder if instead of 3-D printing the entire cubby, one could start with that $21 cubby part (or $30 from Ford Parts) and then add @ENDianDigital's lid mount. There is also a tray and mat for this part.

 

[sstevetx]

That might be a good option if someone wants to give it a try. Just need a good 3d designer to design the drop in piece and then you would need to cut a hole in the bottom for the hardness.

I just kicked off another print job, but changing the infill to adaptive cubic and setting walls from 2 to 4. That should strengthen it up., but print time is now 22 hours. I also switched to the big ass cupholder version that added some extra material. That is part of the print time increase. I'm wondering if I should go PETG instead of ASA like some suggested. I'll know in about a day how this turns out assuming no print issues.

EDIT: Print job failed overnight (sigh). I don't have enough black PETG onhand, so I am attempting with PLA to test the print.

 

[ENDianDigital]

Too bad about the crack. In another thread on a shifter change-out, they used the OEM cubby that comes with the stalk shifter F-150.

I wonder if instead of 3-D printing the entire cubby, one could start with that $21 cubby part (or $30 from Ford Parts) and then add @ENDianDigital's lid mount. There is also a tray and mat for this part.

This was actually my first idea when I started the project, and I ordered the stowage tub from Ford, but I found that there would need to be so much modification and cutting on the bin that it made more sense (to me anyway) to just print a single part. I ended up using the bin for quite a bit of my reference geometry, so it came in handy anyway.

I just passed the bin on to @boggle who seems to have a solid design/modeling background (way more so than me) so maybe he would be interested in pursuing that path. Not sure what direction he's planning on going, but I'm excited to see.

 

[boggle]

I'm hoping to get models of the tub and shifter assemblies together when I have some time next week, I'll share the models here if anybody else wants to take a stab at designing something from them. @ENDianDigital was kind enough to send his blank tub over which makes this much easier. Hoping I can pull off some kind of insert with minimal modification to the tub to keep it as strong/OEM as possible and limit requisite printing.

 

[Pioneer74]

• L button: Doesn't appear to do anything. Tried pressing it while parked and while driving.

Try pressing the L button while in neutral and stopped. It should give you a 30 minute neutral state.

 

[Legacy23]

I

That might be a good option if someone wants to give it a try. Just need a good 3d designer to design the drop in piece and then you would need to cut a hole in the bottom for the hardness.

I just kicked off another print job, but changing the infill to adaptive cubic and setting walls from 2 to 4. That should strengthen it up., but print time is now 22 hours. I also switched to the big ass cupholder version that added some extra material. That is part of the print time increase. I'm wondering if I should go PETG instead of ASA like some suggested. I'll know in about a day how this turns out assuming no print issues.

I'm trying it now with your initial settings and these changes. Fingers crossed that it works, this will be my 3rd time trying and probably all the filament I have left...lol

We'll see when it's done tomorrow night.

 

[sstevetx]

I updated my earlier post with a new picture taken when dark. I don't want it getting lost in the details, so here it is when it's still dark outside. The letters have a light blue backlight and there is a light blue ring that goes completely around the base.

 

[Legacy23]

That might be a good option if someone wants to give it a try. Just need a good 3d designer to design the drop in piece and then you would need to cut a hole in the bottom for the hardness.

I just kicked off another print job, but changing the infill to adaptive cubic and setting walls from 2 to 4. That should strengthen it up., but print time is now 22 hours. I also switched to the big ass cupholder version that added some extra material. That is part of the print time increase. I'm wondering if I should go PETG instead of ASA like some suggested. I'll know in about a day how this turns out assuming no print issues.

EDIT: Print job failed overnight (sigh). I don't have enough black PETG onhand, so I am attempting with PLA to test the print.

Sorry your print failed man, mine is still going strong ~10 hrs to go now. I'm using ASA so I've got my fingers crossed. I've slowed the print down to try and prevent any issues. Do you know how yours failed?

 

[sstevetx]

@Legacy23 it was bed adhesion for one of the tree supports that didn't stick and fell over, which caused stringing in the section that tree was supposed to support. The rest of the tree supports were fine, so not sure what happened.

 

[21st Century Truck]

For anyone who uses a Mach E rotary shifter for this mod - are the Mach E shifter "box" dimensions too different from Escape rotary shifters to allow fitment into the 3D housing?

Hard to tell this from Ebay pictures...

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