Tips on Extension Power Cords

[EVpower]

I want to share some tips on power cords for EVSE or Pro Power On Board use with the forum.

Buy extension cords based on the wire gauge (AWG) and needed length. I've noticed some manufacturers have gotten very creative with marketing cords which might be fine for intermittent use but are undersize for continuous vehicle charging current. The outside diameter of some cords can be misleading as well, with more plastic insulation and smaller diameter wire. If you need a long extension cord, spend the money for a larger wire gauge cable. The general rule of thumb is 12-gauge flexible extension cords on 20 Amp circuits and 10-gauge cable on 30 Amp circuits. 14-gauge cords are undersize for EVSE feeds.

Take the time to uncoil an extension cord when it is in use. That allows heat buildup in the cable to dissipate better.

If you are using the locking type plugs like the NEMA L14-30 on PPOB, be very careful not to bend the pins. They are easily damaged in normal handling while still being able to be inserted in the mating receptacle. The result is a melted plug and connector. I recommend a protective cover for the plugs. The best protection is a mating connector tied to the plug end with nylon line. You can also make a plug cover with PVC pipe. A water bottle with the ends cut off could avoid damage to an extension cord in the frunk or truck bed.

If you are making or repairing locking connector cables, be aware that the individual conductor twist reverses about every six inches. If you can't get the right color conductor on the correct pin, cut the outer jacket back six inches and try again. On a new cable, try the other end of the cut piece to get the connections right. Be very sure to check the torque on the connections more than once.

Merry Christmas,

Steve

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[Mach Turtle]

Thanks for the advice on cord tips, and the middle parts too. Your protective cover suggestion seems like such a great idea that I'm currently printing the following, chosen somewhat randomly from lots of available designs online:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2974604/files
I'll edit to add a review if and when I get the thing successfully printed and tested.

Edit: Printed the NEMA L14-30 plug cap in PETG; it fits really well and has a hole for a lanyard, which is a good idea for preventing misplacement of the cap.

 

[MaintGrl]

I want to share some tips on power cords for EVSE or Pro Power On Board use with the forum.

Buy extension cords based on the wire gauge (AWG) and needed length. I've noticed some manufacturers have gotten very creative with marketing cords which might be fine for intermittent use but are undersize for continuous vehicle charging current. The outside diameter of some cords can be misleading as well, with more plastic insulation and smaller diameter wire. If you need a long extension cord, spend the money for a larger wire gauge cable. The general rule of thumb is 12-gauge flexible extension cords on 20 Amp circuits and 10-gauge cable on 30 Amp circuits. 14-gauge cords are undersize for EVSE feeds.

Take the time to uncoil an extension cord when it is in use. That allows heat buildup in the cable to dissipate better.

If you are using the locking type plugs like the NEMA L14-30 on PPOB, be very careful not to bend the pins. They are easily damaged in normal handling while still being able to be inserted in the mating receptacle. The result is a melted plug and connector. I recommend a protective cover for the plugs. The best protection is a mating connector tied to the plug end with nylon line. You can also make a plug cover with PVC pipe. A water bottle with the ends cut off could avoid damage to an extension cord in the frunk or truck bed.

If you are making or repairing locking connector cables, be aware that the individual conductor twist reverses about every six inches. If you can't get the right color conductor on the correct pin, cut the outer jacket back six inches and try again. On a new cable, try the other end of the cut piece to get the connections right. Be very sure to check the torque on the connections more than once.

Merry Christmas,

Steve

I have never seen this before, in all the years of making and repairing cords, (Large and small cords). If it were to reverse there would be a lump at that location. That being said, the ends of the cords (Wire color layout) are designed to be specific to a male or female plug wire color layout.

 

[broncoaz]

Good advise, thanks.

I’m leasing my second Lightning now and am thinking about what adapters and extensions I may want for welding with the onboard L14-30R outlet. My welders and plasma cutter all run the 6-50P. The Miller 190 is rated for 21.7 amps, I don’t remember the requirement for the plasma cutter but the tig welder exceeds 30 amps. I have this Champion brand L14-30 generator extension cable from my old house, 10 gauge.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076HQ2THC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don’t love the 10 gauge limit on the commercially available L14-30 cables, I’d rather get something 8 gauge. If I adapted at the truck end to 6-50 I could use a 8 gauge cable to the machines.

https://www.amazon.com/Miady-Weldin...+to+6-50r+extension+cord+25ft,aps,192&sr=8-13

I’m not sure if these short cable adapters are better than the stubby plastic housing connectors, but I like the idea of the clear plastic plug ends so I can see if they are burning inside. I will also want a L14-30P to 14-50R adapter in case I ever need to use the Ford mobile charger to charge another’s EV.

https://www.amazon.com/TOOLIOM-L14-...-18-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGY&th=1

Option B for the welder is to buy a premade cord for L14-30P to 6-50R, but they are 10 gauge. I haven’t looked, but I’m guessing the truck receptacle is only wired with 10 gauge?

 

[EVpower]

I should have mentioned in my post that I was referencing 4 conductor cable where the relative relationship of the conductors changes with the internal twist. With 10/4 SO cable that's about every 6 inches. With larger gauge cables the conductor twist should be a greater distance.

If you are installing both the plug and connector on a 4-conductor cable you can select the end to get the individual conductors in the correct location for the wiring device. If you try to cross over the conductors inside the device, you will have problems assembling the shell or the strain relief. This isn't a problem with 3-conductor cords. You can more easily put the conductors in the right place.

I'll also suggest avoiding leaving unsupported cable on the locking plug end. It seems to reduce the contact area between the pin and the plug and connector if the cable weight forces the pins out of alignment.

Thanks to @MaintGrl for noting the concern.

Merry Christmas,

Steve

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