Towing costs - help with calculations

[Pioneer74]

If it takes 17% to charge back to 80% why can't I simply use that % change times the total battery size to calculate energy consumed? Is 17% of 131kWh = 22.27 kWh added correct or not?

You may have only used 17% of your battery, but there are charging losses to take into consideration if you're trying to figure out the cost to recharge your truck.

I know you say you don't want a different charger, but the Emporia EVSE will accomplish what you're trying to do.

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[TheWoo]

Boy I'm so embarrassed.The 17% charge log is not for my towing trips. I can't find the tow trip charge anywhere. Not showing up in the Ford Pass app, trip data gone from the truck when I reset the trip meter. I rarely delete my Ford Pass data and I'll have to wait for another tow opportunity to check that out.

So below is a two person trip to town and back.

If it takes 17% to charge back to 80% why can't I simply use that % change times the total battery size to calculate energy consumed? Is 17% of 131kWh = 22.27 kWh added correct or not?

I do not intend to add a faster home charger. Been fine using the mobile charger except for the lack of data. I just want to see how much cheaper it is to run my truck. I've always kept gas records on all our gas vehicles. I could clearly see my Tundra's mpg drop when I was towing or winter driving. I rarely let my EV's drop below 50% and never charge above 85%. So I'm typically adding 10-20% on a charge. Just want to know what it costs to add that % back to my truck.

Your math is right and the best way to do it if you're not going to install a charger that will track for you - there is typically (in my understanding) ~10% loss in energy used to energy stored in the battery, so you could safely add 10% to your cost and probably be a little more accurate. Rounding errors on the charge percentages could add up over time, too, though they likely would even out over time.

 

[cal]

Thanks and thanks to all responding!

I’m pretty sure my towing trips are done for this year. I’ll probably have to wait until the spring. Going to build a road that will require multiple landscape company trips. Not long enough to warrant a truck load.

 

[TaxmanHog]

Boy I'm so embarrassed.The 17% charge log is not for my towing trips. I can't find the tow trip charge anywhere. Not showing up in the Ford Pass app, trip data gone from the truck when I reset the trip meter. I rarely delete my Ford Pass data and I'll have to wait for another tow opportunity to check that out.

So below is a two person trip to town and back.

If it takes 17% to charge back to 80% why can't I simply use that % change times the total battery size to calculate energy consumed? Is 17% of 131kWh = 22.27 kWh added correct or not?

I do not intend to add a faster home charger. Been fine using the mobile charger except for the lack of data. I just want to see how much cheaper it is to run my truck. I've always kept gas records on all our gas vehicles. I could clearly see my Tundra's mpg drop when I was towing or winter driving. I rarely let my EV's drop below 50% and never charge above 85%. So I'm typically adding 10-20% on a charge. Just want to know what it costs to add that % back to my truck.

Did you actually drive 56 miles on the trip 10/18??

The reason i ask is that the charging record rarely computes the restored energy "Estimated Distance Added" value accurately for my truck.

I tend to burn electrons at a more aggressive rate, but some folks, possibly your's could be right on point.

Consider adding the emporia Vue2 to get an accurate measurement of energy through the FMC to your truck, it's a great data collection tool!

 

[RickLightning]

The most accurate way to see how much energy you put into the truck is to look at the Ford app WHILE THE TRUCK IS CHARGING. It will display the amount of energy, with a decimal point, that has been added. Click on the button while it's charging, THEN UNPLUG.

Divide that by 0.9, i.e. accounting for 10% loss from house to vehicle. It might be as much as 15%, so play with 0.85 too.

That's how much energy you used.

Also, remember that towing at low speed uses much less energy than towing on the highway.

 

[cal]

Did you actually drive 56 miles on the trip 10/18??

The reason i ask is that the charging record rarely computes the restored energy "Estimated Distance Added" value accurately for my truck.

I tend to burn electrons at a more aggressive rate, but some folks, possibly your's could be right on point.

Consider adding the emporia Vue2 to get an accurate measurement of energy through the FMC to your truck, it's a great data collection tool!

Yes the milage is correct for 10/18

I ignore the distance added and only focus on the Total Charge added. In this case I used the 17%

I do have the Ford Pro Power wall unit but haven't considered installing it. Does that give a an accurate measurement? I probably don't have a strong enough interest to pay a few hundred $ to install.

 

[cal]

The most accurate way to see how much energy you put into the truck is to look at the Ford app WHILE THE TRUCK IS CHARGING. It will display the amount of energy, with a decimal point, that has been added. Click on the button while it's charging, THEN UNPLUG.

Divide that by 0.9, i.e. accounting for 10% loss from house to vehicle. It might be as much as 15%, so play with 0.85 too.

That's how much energy you used.

Also, remember that towing at low speed uses much less energy than towing on the highway.

Are you talking about the button in the charge port? Not sure how I'm going to get an accurate measurement if I'm unplugging before the charge finishes.

 

[RickLightning]

Are you talking about the button in the charge port? Not sure how I'm going to get an accurate measurement if I'm unplugging before the charge finishes.

You missed the word "app" in my answer.

Cluck on the word DETAILS....

 

[cal]

Got it. So let it finish but make sure I check the details on the app before I unplug.

 

[TaxmanHog]

I do have the Ford Pro Power wall unit but haven't considered installing it. Does that give a an accurate measurement? I probably don't have a strong enough interest to pay a few hundred $ to install.

Yes, it's very accurate, and you can input the cost factor for your energy, it will show the cost of the charging by day, week, month & year.

BTW, my energy rate for Sept/Oct is now running 29.81 c/kwh and going up to 35 c/kwh in December

 

[cal]

Thanks! Maybe I'll have to reconsider.

Man that's a 30% increase. Why?

 

[TaxmanHog]

Thanks! Maybe I'll have to reconsider.

Man that's a 30% increase. Why?

The two year community bulk purchase agreement for our region of Mass was renegotiated, the energy portion of my bill will rise from 10 c kwh to 15 c/kwh, while the balance of costs are for distribution fees remaining stable (for the moment) the economy and fuel costs to generate Electricity in New England are going through the roof. Retail National Grid cost is 3 cents higher than the CBPA rate!!

 

[Henry Ford]

Also, remember that towing at low speed uses much less energy than towing on the highway.

This. Drag is the main robber of efficiency and drag increases exponentially as speed is increased. There's certainly an efficiency hit with a heavy load. It takes more energy to get up to speed but once up to speed the main problem of weight is rolling resistance, which isn't terrible with properly inflated tires on a hard surface. Plus you get some of that energy back when you stop!

 

[Jseis]

OP must have the save utility I’ve got Clark PUD. We pay $0.0816 a kWh 24/7. Same rate for the last 10+ years. We have a monthly connection fee of $12 but got to pay that regardless of owning an EV or not. No addition admin, distribution or transmission fees. Costs me about $50 a month to drive 1700 miles. We also have gas prices at or above CA rates. We have got to be in the most economically beneficial place to drive electric in the country.

I live west of you in PC and we pay $.0634/KW. cost me about $55/month to drive 2200 miles.

 

[cal]

Ford has to do a much better job at communicating how cheap it is to drive. Can’t imagine why they missed it so bad. It was one of the main perks Tesla pushed on in store displays and on the website. They act like everyone should just know.

What’s PC? That’s really cheap!

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