Adding a Sub to non-unleashed BO system

[Tldx07]

Here are a couple of photos. I haven't bolted the kicker down yet, time was tight. One piece of advice, the kicker positive lead was not long enough to go from behind the SCrew rear seat, down the door jam, through the firewall (used hood releasd grommet) and to the battery, had to add a little more wire.

Thank you for the pictures appreciate it. Going to give it a shot this weekend maybe, considering tapping into the existing wiring after the B&O amp, may try and leave the factory sub hooked up also. Some people say its possible as long as your after the amp running a self powered sub, anyone know if i would need anything in addition? such as a LC7i or Keyloc? i saw some poeple mention them in other threads.

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[dm5point0]

I am planning on doing this as well, but I have done some research and to get the most out of the sub, you would need an LCi2 or LCi2 Pro (I have a pro on the way). Otherwise the signal will start to drop off as the music gets louder because the factory wants to keep from blowing the crappy stock speaker.

 

[BCrippsy38]

I am planning on doing this as well, but I have done some research and to get the most out of the sub, you would need an LCi2 or LCi2 Pro (I have a pro on the way). Otherwise the signal will start to drop off as the music gets louder because the factory wants to keep from blowing the crappy stock speaker.

Would tapping into the rear door speakers be a better approach than the factory sub?

 

[dm5point0]

Would tapping into the rear door speakers be a better approach than the factory sub?

Not from what I have seen. The factory DSP is tuned to eliminate clipping and the door speakers would probably clip faster than the little sub.

 

[BCrippsy38]

Not from what I have seen. The factory DSP is tuned to eliminate clipping and the door speakers would probably clip faster than the little sub.

Ok good to know. Heard clipping could be an issue, was hoping the dsp used feedback from the speakers where disconnecting the factory sub would remove that concern.

 

[dm5point0]

Ok good to know. Heard clipping could be an issue, was hoping the dsp used feedback from the speakers where disconnecting the factory sub would remove that concern.

I am just using the LCi2 Pro to make sure AND I am removing the factory sub.

 

[Graygoose2021]

The KEYLOC would work perfectly, flatten the factory EQ' and allow you to boost it with the HS10.

 

[Tldx07]

I pulled these from another thread on F150fourm kudos to a 'Oscare' who posted them. This is using a separate amp and sub but again i'd wire it to the kicker hideaway.

This is tapped after the amp just before the stock sub connector. From what I can see he tapped both positives from the LC to the Positive on the stock sub, Both negatives on LC to negative on stock sub.

The rest is a little tough to see, Im no audio guru so these are my uneducated assumptions;
- LC2 remote out ties into the kicker remote on.
- LC2 remote in? would you need to tie in the stock amp remote to this?
- Positive feed, can i pull off the stock amp or better off dedicated/fuse box?
- Negative you guys mentioned threes a few screws for grounding.

LC2 Bass output RCAs to the Kicker hideaway (I was going to add the Kicker KISL RCAs from the hideaway harness so I can just plug them together)

 

[ISLANDF150]

I pulled these from another thread on F150fourm kudos to a 'Oscare' who posted them. This is using a separate amp and sub but again i'd wire it to the kicker hideaway.

This is tapped after the amp just before the stock sub connector. From what I can see he tapped both positives from the LC to the Positive on the stock sub, Both negatives on LC to negative on stock sub.

The rest is a little tough to see, Im no audio guru so these are my uneducated assumptions;
- LC2 remote out ties into the kicker remote on.
- LC2 remote in? would you need to tie in the stock amp remote to this?
- Positive feed, can i pull off the stock amp or better off dedicated/fuse box?
- Negative you guys mentioned threes a few screws for grounding.

LC2 Bass output RCAs to the Kicker hideaway (I was going to add the Kicker KISL RCAs from the hideaway harness so I can just plug them together)

"This is tapped after the amp just before the stock sub connector. From what I can see he tapped both positives from the LC to the Positive on the stock sub, Both negatives on LC to negative on stock sub."

This is what I did for mine except I didn't need the LC2i bc my amp has that feature...postive on stock sub is green and grey is negative...Confirmed it works.... Ran a power cable to the battery. Ground to a bolt on the back wall...and the bass is back!

 

[magg992001]

"This is tapped after the amp just before the stock sub connector. From what I can see he tapped both positives from the LC to the Positive on the stock sub, Both negatives on LC to negative on stock sub."

This is what I did for mine except I didn't need the LC2i bc my amp has that feature...postive on stock sub is green and grey is negative...Confirmed it works.... Ran a power cable to the battery. Ground to a bolt on the back wall...and the bass is back!
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Where did you get remote power from to turn on the AMP?

 

[TJSparky]

Here is a pic of the setup I did…

 

[Tldx07]

Here is a pic of the setup I did…

That’s a beauty

 

[93dpscoupe]

Here is a pic of the setup I did…

That’s clean, good work

 

[TJSparky]

Thanks all. It definitely sounds better than the baby sub they put in.

 

[Tldx07]

Here is a pic of the setup I did…

TJ how did you end up wiring the remote on?
And did you do a dedicated power?

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