You get a red power light on the Kicker but it never turns to blue? Have you tried temporarily wiring the subwoofer leads directly to the Kicker?
The fuse box in the passenger footwell is probably the easiest and closest if you don't want to find and tap into the power wire going into the amp.
What size is the center speaker?
I don't know what size, but without some intermediary device there is no way to get the right signal to it. It would need a cross over or something to pull the higher frequencies out to leave it a sub. It's just overpowering in all situation. Some have reported just unplugging it. I could try that, but the door speakers won't know it is unplugged so not sure the difference.
OMG I can't believe they put such a small ass speaker for the center channel and make it over power all the other speakers. It's a 3 inch speaker I think, I forgot to measure it as I unplugged it yesterday. The sound is much better without it, you can hear separation of sounds. Very easy to pop off the griil and unscrew the speaker to unplug it, I screw it back in place with the speaker wire threw the hole so it can't fall back into the hole. There's just a full sound now as you can turn the volume up now without the center speaker taking over. I beg of you, all of you take to unplug that Damm center speaker.
Read up on the Moss Magnusson act. Anyone who owns a vehicle with modifications should be familiar with it.
I don't think so as noted and protected by federal laws.
Where did you run the power signal from?I made the following changes so far to the stock B&O system (Lariat ER). Everything so far has been exactly the same as the ICE trucks. I used the ICE and MachE forums to research these changes.
Note: I am not an audiophile, this is the most I have ever upgraded a car stereo system and almost all of the music I listen to is rock produced between 1970-2000. YMMV.
Replaced subwoofer with a Kicker Hideaway (HS10). This upgrade makes a big difference over the stock setup IMO. The install was straightforward and the sub fits nicely in the spot where the stock subwoofer was. I am using the high level outputs from the stock amp which the HS10 supports but in theory a dedicated LOC is better. I will probably try a LC2i at some point to see how much of a difference it makes.
Removed center channel dash speaker. As others have noted this speaker just feels overpowering (i.e. it feels like all the music comes out of this speaker). A center speaker seems out of place in a setup used mostly for listening to music in stereo. This Dayton Audio speaker (DA 8ohm 3.5) was recommended as a replacement (the stock speaker is 8ohm). I bought it but haven't tried it out yet.
Replaced front door speakers with Kicker CS 6x9s (Kicker 46CS). These were originally going to be for the rear doors but I thought I would try them up front first. I think they are better but I'm not sure it was a huge improvement. With the tweeters on the A pillars I feel like a quality component mid-range speaker might be a better upgrade choice for the front doors.
I think eventually I will end up using a ZEN-A2B (or equivalent). This is probably the fastest path to getting the best quality audio since you have full control over amplification and remove any processing by the B&O DSP. I just wasn't ready to jump directly to that step and wanted to tinker a bit along the way.
