Pro Power problem

[Hammick]

Been using the Pro Power to power our house. I received the below message through Ford Pass but then it went away so I didn't think much of it. Discovered today that our Anova Precision Oven will not power on using the 120v bed outlets. It won't power on when using the 240v outlet to power the house. It works just fine using the frunk 120v outlet.

Our microwave display is also doing some weird things with erratic flashing lights.

Do I need to haul this damn oven into the dealer to show them or do you think their computer can diagnose the problem? Needless to say I won't be powering our house with the Lightning until I get this fixed.

Thanks for any advice.

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[Fast911]

Been using the Pro Power to power our house. I received the below message through Ford Pass but then it went away so I didn't think much of it. Discovered today that our Anova Precision Oven will not power on using the 120v bed outlets. It won't power on when using the 240v outlet to power the house. It works just fine using the frunk 120v outlet.

Our microwave display is also doing some weird things with erratic flashing lights.

Do I need to haul this damn oven into the dealer to show them or do you think their computer can diagnose the problem? Needless to say I won't be powering our house with the Lightning until I get this fixed.

Thanks for any advice.

Just my 2 cents, try pushing in buttons A and B to reset the outlets.

 

[Hammick]

Thanks. I’ll give that a try in the morning.

 

[Bandit216]

Also, lie on your back and look under the rear of your Lighting beneath the Pro Power Panel in the bed. There is a cable with a plastic connector that runs to the power panel. Make sure the two halves of the plastic connector are fully seated together.

 

[hturnerfamily]

sounds like the 7.2kw inverter is not supplying proper output, and your oven and other appliances don't like it... may be ground or neutral related. You didn't mention 'how' you are supplying power to the home, or directly to the appliances from the bed(direct from 240v outlet to home's main panel, from 120v bed outlet(s) via extension cords, etc)

like someone else mentioned, and I've seen it before myself, the APP notice you received sounds like a 'disconnect' somewhere. Mine was when I disconnected the 'frunk's electrical connection to the 120v outlets to remove the frunk, and forgot to reconnect it.

A loose Neutral or ground can easily create 'weird' issues with digital appliance, like you mention. Some digital devices can still power up, and others won't.
This issue could also be at the cord/connections for your 'whole house' wiring, and not be the truck at all.

 

[Hammick]

sounds like the 7.2kw inverter is not supplying proper output, and your oven and other appliances don't like it... may be ground or neutral related. You didn't mention 'how' you are supplying power to the home, or directly to the appliances from the bed(direct from 240v outlet to home's main panel, from 120v bed outlet(s) via extension cords, etc)

like someone else mentioned, and I've seen it before myself, the APP notice you received sounds like a 'disconnect' somewhere. Mine was when I disconnected the 'frunk's electrical connection to the 120v outlets to remove the frunk, and forgot to reconnect it.

A loose Neutral or ground can easily create 'weird' issues with digital appliance, like you mention. Some digital devices can still power up, and others won't.
This issue could also be at the cord/connections for your 'whole house' wiring, and not be the truck at all.

Sorry I should have given more info. The oven is a countertop 120v multifunction oven. I carried it to the truck tailgate and plugged it directly into the 120v plugs in the bed. It wouldn't power on from either of the outlets (oven plug is grounded 120v). I also tried a ground lifting adapter with no luck. Oven did not exhibit any signs of turning on except the internal fan was running. It works just fine on house power.

The built in microwave is 120v and is exhibiting systems of a bad control board or display board. It is now working fine on house power but took a while to start acting normal.

The way I am powering the house from the 240v Pro Power is with a 50a three-pole (neutral switching) automatic transfer switch. L1, L2, neutral and ground from Pro Power connect directly to the transfer switch generator input. House power (L1, L2, neutral and ground) are fed from the main panel to the transfer switch grid power input. Load output from transfer switch (L1, L2 and neutral) goes to a sub panel that has critical loads and is completely isolated from the main panel except the ground connection. The bonding screw in the subpanel is removed. There is no continuity between the neutrals in the main panel and the neutrals in the subpanel (if there was the truck would throw a ground fault). It all works properly except the oven and microwave issue. I am successfully running our 4 ton inverter based AC unit from the Pro Power.

I'll look under the truck and make sure the connections are tight. Assuming they are I will take the oven to the dealership and show them that frunk outlets work fine and bed outlets don't.

Thank to everyone for their advice.

 

[chl]

Some electronic equipment is very sensitive to 'noise' on the line. I don't know how well the 120 and 240 output from the truck is filtered, but it sounds like it is not filtered enough for those two appliances.

Inverters (DC-AC) like the one (two) in your truck are switching devices (they use switching on-off-on to create a square wave which is then smoothed out by other circuitry in the inverter to approach a smooth sine wave like you get from the utility) so they sometimes have too much electrical noise on the output line if the smoothing/filtering is not high quality.

There are line filters you could put between the 120 wall outlet and the appliance to add more smoothing when running off the truck, or a noisy gas powered generator.

That's my guess anyway.

I haven't heard any one else mention this problem, so maybe your inverter(s) in the truck are faulty and that is why you got that message about "Service required." If the filtering in the inverters fails then maybe the truck detects that and tells you?

 

[NCMike]

I recently got my ProPower outlets in the truck bed replaced because they were supplying irregular voltages. When using a multimeter, I sometimes have 240Vs coming out of the normal outlets. Other times it would supply around 80volts. I am not sure what parts were replaced but the dealership was able to replicate it and replace the correct parts.

 

[Hammick]

I recently got my ProPower outlets in the truck bed replaced because they were supplying irregular voltages. When using a multimeter, I sometimes have 240Vs coming out of the normal outlets. Other times it would supply around 80volts. I am not sure what parts were replaced but the dealership was able to replicate it and replace the correct parts.

Thanks. Any idea if they had to drop the battery pack?

 

[NCMike]

Thanks. Any idea if they had to drop the battery pack?

Pretty sure they did not. It took them about 2 hours to fix it.

 

[Hammick]

Pretty sure they did not. It took them about 2 hours to fix it.

They definitely didn't drop the pack and back in two hours. That's encouraging to hear. Heading to the dealer now to talk to my advisor.

 

[Maquis]

Some electronic equipment is very sensitive to 'noise' on the line. I don't know how well the 120 and 240 output from the truck is filtered, but it sounds like it is not filtered enough for those two appliances.

Inverters (DC-AC) like the one (two) in your truck are switching devices (they use switching on-off-on to create a square wave which is then smoothed out by other circuitry in the inverter to approach a smooth sine wave like you get from the utility) so they sometimes have too much electrical noise on the output line if the smoothing/filtering is not high quality.

There are line filters you could put between the 120 wall outlet and the appliance to add more smoothing when running off the truck, or a noisy gas powered generator.

That's my guess anyway.

I haven't heard any one else mention this problem, so maybe your inverter(s) in the truck are faulty and that is why you got that message about "Service required." If the filtering in the inverters fails then maybe the truck detects that and tells you?

There was a thread about the quality of the ProPower system. I believe someone confirmed that it is true sine wave output. His ProPower would run electronics that would not run on a portable generator.

 

[Hammick]

There was a thread about the quality of the ProPower system. I believe someone confirmed that it is true sine wave output. His ProPower would run electronics that would not run on a portable generator.

Thanks Maquis. I've seen that thread. He put an oscilloscope on it and says it was super clean. My truck definitely has a problem. I crawled under and all connections are properly made. Inverter appears to be under the spare tire. It's going in Tuesday morning for diagnosis.

 

[hturnerfamily]

because you are having issues with 'electronics', not necessarily 'electrical' issues since the HVAC is running(compressor)... I would lean toward a Ground or Neutral issue, since electronics have a MUCH more requirement for stable connections. The a/c unit probably doesn't care much. Lights don't care, etc.

I wonder if the GROUND for the rear INVERTER is the issue, since the front inverter is working fine for your electronics. Grounds on vehicles tend to degrade over time. Like a weak 12v battery, which might seem to work effectively for the most part, but suddenly start giving strange issues, a loose or weak Ground can create havoc, too.
If that's not it, it could simply be a loose Neutral wire within one or more wiring harnesses from the outlets to the inverter, etc.

 

[Hammick]

because you are having issues with 'electronics', not necessarily 'electrical' issues since the HVAC is running(compressor)... I would lean toward a Ground or Neutral issue, since electronics have a MUCH more requirement for stable connections. The a/c unit probably doesn't care much. Lights don't care, etc.

I wonder if the GROUND for the rear INVERTER is the issue, since the front inverter is working fine for your electronics. Grounds on vehicles tend to degrade over time. Like a weak 12v battery, which might seem to work effectively for the most part, but suddenly start giving strange issues, a loose or weak Ground can create havoc, too.
If that's not it, it could simply be a loose Neutral wire within one or more wiring harnesses from the outlets to the inverter, etc.

I'm not going to hook it back up to the house until it's fixed. Our main floor HVAC is a Lennox full communication system. So the AC motor is inverter and the gas furnace blower is inverter. The thermostat communicates and controls the system. Lots of stuff to fry there.

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