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DIY: Installing Passive Entry To A 2022 F-150 Lightning XLT

Minh

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Thank you @ZSC100 and @KurtsRPMGarage for making this possible for me. Finished today and the handle button doesn’t even need to be touch to unlock. It also work for locking the vehicle.

definite a must mod IMO
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UpWithFilm

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Thank you @ZSC100 and @KurtsRPMGarage for making this possible for me. Finished today and the handle button doesn’t even need to be touch to unlock. It also work for locking the vehicle.

definite a must mod IMO
If the entry is anything like the Ford Lex I traded in for my truck then the inside of the handle, the part your fingers wrap around should be touch sensitive and is what unlocks the door. The button should only be for locking it.

Can anyone else confirm?
 

KurtsRPMGarage

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If the entry is anything like the Ford Lex I traded in for my truck then the inside of the handle, the part your fingers wrap around should be touch sensitive and is what unlocks the door. The button should only be for locking it.

Can anyone else confirm?
Yes that’s exactly right. Just wrap your hand around it and it unlocks. To lock it you hold your thumb over the “button” for a second or two and it locks.
 

boggle

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Finally got around to doing this tonight with the Bronco handle, works like a charm. Cheers to all the hard work and concise instructions provided here, what a massive QoL improvement this is. @ZSC100, I owe you a couple beers (seriously DM me a Venmo or PayPal).
 
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ZSC100

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Finally got around to doing this tonight with the Bronco handle, works like a charm. Cheers to all the hard work and concise instructions provided here, what a massive QoL improvement this is. @ZSC100, I owe you a couple beers (seriously DM me a Venmo or PayPal).
No $$$ necessary, glad you can enjoy. Yea, this really is a game changer once you are used to it. You cannot have this feature then go without it.
 

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lSherlockl

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Curious if anyone mucked around with the passenger side, seen the part numbers floated out there.

assume would be the same process for passenger door but probably different firmware for passenger door module, and different config?
 
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ZSC100

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Passenger side works the same exact way, I traced the wires, they were populated in my truck and there is a byte in the config for enabling that door. What I didn't check and is arguably of more importance is the driver side back door.
 

lSherlockl

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Passenger side works the same exact way, I traced the wires, they were populated in my truck and there is a byte in the config for enabling that door. What I didn't check and is arguably of more importance is the driver side back door.
ah just looked closer at your all forscan changes are in the BCM, (my mind thought it was based in the DDM)

the DDM/PDM are just flash the firmware no other config changes?

also appreciation for the complete writeup much easier to follow.
 
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ZSC100

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ah just looked closer at your all forscan changes are in the BCM, (my mind thought it was based in the DDM)

the DDM/PDM are just flash the firmware no other config changes?

also appreciation for the complete writeup much easier to follow.
The only firmware change is for the BCM which generates the RF signals for the handles. The handles wire directly to the BCM they do not even touch the DDM or PDM.
 

lSherlockl

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The only firmware change is for the BCM which generates the RF signals for the handles. The handles wire directly to the BCM they do not even touch the DDM or PDM.
shoot yeah your right I'm sorry I cant read at all apparently, that makes sense though is a bit scarier module to flash.

Out of curiosity does the firmware flash reset the config for the module? IE if you had any other previous config changes?
 

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ZSC100

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shoot yeah your right I'm sorry I cant read at all apparently, that makes sense though is a bit scarier module to flash.

Out of curiosity does the firmware flash reset the config for the module? IE if you had any other previous config changes?
Nope, the config is completely separate from the firmware.
 

lSherlockl

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Wanted to share a few notes:

22 pro Tow tech/maxx tow.

Got driver side working per the well written instructions awesome! And the approach lighting is also sweet!

I would add for anyone that is more paranoid you can pull down a copy of the stock firmware before flashing the BCM right from forscan will deposit all the files for you "as built" firmware so to speak in your configurations folder.

also found one of the wire pins needed some tape on the door removed so it could slot in for the driver harness. just something easy to miss

Ford F-150 Lightning DIY: Installing Passive Entry To A 2022 F-150 Lightning XLT 20230917_173343

its here south east of the wire gasket going to the inside of the door
Ford F-150 Lightning DIY: Installing Passive Entry To A 2022 F-150 Lightning XLT 20230917_173349

figure worth noting for anyone who gets a phantom rattle might be that guy as its hard plastic which IMHO may be worse than the wrapped wire wiggling around in terms of rattle.

The plastic with the "goop" sealant also seemed pretty easy to deal with if you pull on the plastic and use a sharp razor blade to just slice thru the sealant (not the plastic)

I also found a pretty easy way to deal with our friend the main plug that snaps into the body of the truck. ill try and upload, basically using your hand reach the back side and rock the plug toward you will get a small pop then pick/screwdriver the middle of the side that's towards you and it will pop out easy

Passenger Door

wanted to do the passenger side as well (handle part nums are correct) but ran into a harness issue/confusion.

From this thread found people stating harness NL3Z-14630-G was correct fit for passenger side

from online parts store they had PL3Z-14630-G replaced that part cool makes sense (first char is year so fair). However that harness is flat out wrong missing plugs for pass door mouke and had a few extra super funky ones so its going back

some more searching and I see this info on another store

SKU: PL3Z-14630-E
Replaces: NL3Z-14630-G

which is now also concerning as that's yet another different part number. Just want to make sure im not going insane swapping parts like a madman. Any thoughts or anyone else find the same?
 

drewfaulk

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Wanted to share a few notes:

22 pro Tow tech/maxx tow.

Got driver side working per the well written instructions awesome! And the approach lighting is also sweet!

I would add for anyone that is more paranoid you can pull down a copy of the stock firmware before flashing the BCM right from forscan will deposit all the files for you "as built" firmware so to speak in your configurations folder.

also found one of the wire pins needed some tape on the door removed so it could slot in for the driver harness. just something easy to miss

20230917_173343.jpg

its here south east of the wire gasket going to the inside of the door
20230917_173349.jpg

figure worth noting for anyone who gets a phantom rattle might be that guy as its hard plastic which IMHO may be worse than the wrapped wire wiggling around in terms of rattle.

The plastic with the "goop" sealant also seemed pretty easy to deal with if you pull on the plastic and use a sharp razor blade to just slice thru the sealant (not the plastic)

I also found a pretty easy way to deal with our friend the main plug that snaps into the body of the truck. ill try and upload, basically using your hand reach the back side and rock the plug toward you will get a small pop then pick/screwdriver the middle of the side that's towards you and it will pop out easy

Passenger Door

wanted to do the passenger side as well (handle part nums are correct) but ran into a harness issue/confusion.

From this thread found people stating harness NL3Z-14630-G was correct fit for passenger side

from online parts store they had PL3Z-14630-G replaced that part cool makes sense (first char is year so fair). However that harness is flat out wrong missing plugs for pass door mouke and had a few extra super funky ones so its going back

some more searching and I see this info on another store

SKU: PL3Z-14630-E
Replaces: NL3Z-14630-G

which is now also concerning as that's yet another different part number. Just want to make sure im not going insane swapping parts like a madman. Any thoughts or anyone else find the same?
For what it's worth, I emailed Tasca Parts, and they told me it is NL3Z-14630-G, which looks like it's been superseded by the other part number you referenced. Not sure this helps, but it's a data point.
 

lSherlockl

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For what it's worth, I emailed Tasca Parts, and they told me it is NL3Z-14630-G, which looks like it's been superseded by the other part number you referenced. Not sure this helps, but it's a data point.
yeah im wondering if its worth the extra dosh/going with a local dealer (though the ones local to me are just scummy) or just take my chances a second time but these online shops will not take a return on a electrical part at all.
 

drewfaulk

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yeah im wondering if its worth the extra dosh/going with a local dealer (though the ones local to me are just scummy) or just take my chances a second time but these online shops will not take a return on a electrical part at all.
I understand. It might be worth calling an online parts place and seeing if a salesperson will work with you. Tasca doesn't say explicitly that they won't return an electrical part, but they do say returns have to be pre-authorized. Maybe a cool salesperson would help you out with an **exchange**, especially if their system is telling you that the part should fit and it doesn't (I understand they aren't in the business of helping with retrofitting options onto a vehicle that didn't come with them, so this is a stretch, but it's worth a shot). Maybe you could tell them there's a whole thread here on the forum of guys looking to do the mod and that you'd give them a shout-out for great service. An enterprising salesperson would be helpful and ask you to give out his contact info so he'd get the commissions on the sales (or at least so his department will get credit for increased sales if he doesn't earn commission).
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