Possible to create a standalone 30A shop power/breaker box that has an extension cord or pigtail to run off the Pro Power in the bed?

[Zaptor]

I have a shop that is farther from grid power than I really want to trench, and it has a single, old 15A breaker running (underground) currently. I have some tools that want a bit more juice than that, and it occurs to me that any time I am at the shop, my truck is as well.

Is it possible/safe/legal to create an entirely 'off-grid', standalone electrical system for the shop that will simply plug into the truck? I will keep the existing 15A circuit for lights and music but would love to be able to add +200% more available power without trenching. Ideally this would be a simple breaker box inside the shop that could run 4 or 6 different circuits in the shop (but not all at the same time, of course). Basically a custom surge strip that I would plug into my truck and run up to 7200w from...

If it's possible and you have some idea of what parts I'd need to ensure it doesn't ground fault, I'm all ears! I do have a friend who is a journeyman electrician that can help me, just trying to get a feel for what's possible and what others have done.

Thanks in advance

Zap

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[roadhouse]

The super easy easy way? Just grab something like this and zip-tie it to the wall!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09CPPVYC5/

 

[Zaptor]

The super easy easy way? Just grab something like this and zip-tie it to the wall!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09CPPVYC5/

I guess if I have to, was looking for something *a little* more 'permanent' and with a few more plugs so I don't have to move it around and unplug/replug a dozen large tools (table saw, chop saw, bandsaw, planer, jointer, air management, compressor, scrollsaw, etc etc)

I appreciate the option nonetheless!

Zap

 

[bub]

I built one of these. As mentioned there are off the shelf solutions like:

The super easy easy way? Just grab something like this and zip-tie it to the wall!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09CPPVYC5/

But the problem with that for me, It only provides 2 20amp circuits. That leaves 10amps per 120v leg on the table! Unacceptable!
You could get two of these and use a L14-30P Y cable with it. But i decided to just build my own breakout instead.

It features

• 4x 20a circuits
  • Yes, this is more than the 30A output of the Lightning, but I can still safely run 4 15a appliances at the same time on the lighting with this breakout. I could have used 15a breakers, but 20a circuits are more flexible.
  • UL certified Siemens Square D breakers
• 4x 20a GFCI outlets - Again, quality UL certified parts
• Nema 14-50 plug
  • I chose to use this instead of the lightnings L14-30 for the following reasons
    • With a 40a+ circuit I can get the full 4x 20a output. You can use this with the 14-50 charge outlet most of us probably have in their garage aswell to get a bunch of extra circuits for heavy power tools.
  • L14-30 to 14-50 adapters are readibly available
  • The cybertruck uses a 14-50.
• Solid alumnimum enclosure

So yeah TLDR. I can use it in my garage with my existing charger outlet to get some extra circuits when I need it. And when I eventually go camping with the lighting I can run 4 kitchen appliances at the same time off 1 extension cable.

 

[Zaptor]

I built one of these.

*Really* nice work. Very, very close to what I want, just with a longer cord, so I can wall mount the box on an inside wall, and run the cord outside to the truck, maybe 25' max. Thanks for the reply, I need the commercial version of this (or to commission you to build me one lol)!

Thanks
Zap

 

[hturnerfamily]

you can create any type of 'subpanel' you wish, simply by installing a 'Main Breaker Panel', which come in many differing sizes, amperages, and breaker slot numbers... this requires then a 'circuit' for each breaker, to supply your 'outlets' wherever you wish...

the other idea, to simplify the creation of 'power' outlets, is to simply use one of the many various MULTIPLE - Outlet adapters, like some shown above, and run extension cords from them, etc.

Being 'off-the-grid' in this situation is really NO different than the truck supplying the power from it's bed outlets... you are just doing it from the twist-lock 30amp 240v outlet, instead...

 

[bub]

*Really* nice work. Very, very close to what I want, just with a longer cord, so I can wall mount the box on an inside wall, and run the cord outside to the truck, maybe 25' max. Thanks for the reply, I need the commercial version of this (or to commission you to build me one lol)!

Thanks
Zap

Thanks. I used a short cord because it was cheaper, Its meant to be paired with an extension cable.

My solution is meant to be portable. Sounds like you just need a permanent solution in your garage. In that case I think the right thing to do is to just install a small subpanel and wire it up to a L14-30p cable on the main circuit breaker. You should be able to commision any electrician to do this for you.

 

[mags]

It features

• Solid alumnimum enclosure

That box is cool, did you make it or source it from somewhere?

 

[bub]

That box is cool, did you make it or source it from somewhere?

I made it. The enclosure is a generic aluminium project box.

 

[carys98]

You don’t need to add breakers in the shop as long as all of the wire is rated for 30A. I would get a L14-30 generator inlet and bring 10 ga. wire into a box inside the shop. From there I would just run 10 ga. NM-B to whatever outlets you need. I might add a ground rod at the entrance and ground the inlet box but the truck will provide any overcurrent protection you need.

 

[bub]

You don’t need to add breakers in the shop as long as all of the wire is rated for 30A. I would get a L14-30 generator inlet and bring 10 ga. wire into a box inside the shop. From there I would just run 10 ga. NM-B to whatever outlets you need. I might add a ground rod at the entrance and ground the inlet box but the truck will provide any overcurrent protection you need.

That's not totally true. The truck will provide circuit protection for the 30a 240v outlet. Yes you have to run wire rated for 30A. But if you wire it to regular 120v outlets (5-15 or 5-20) and you don't put circuit breakers on that. Then you're not protecting the devices or cables you're powering on those 120v outlets.

You need circuit breakers to go from the L14-30 to 120v outlets. There are breakout cables out there that don't have them, but its a fire hazard to not have them.

 

[Maquis]

You can buy a 12 space breaker panel for about $30. Feed it from a 30A generator inlet and use a 30A generator cord to connect to the truck. From there, you can add circuits incrementally as needed.

 

[Pioneer74]

You can buy a 12 space breaker panel for about $30. Feed it from a 30A generator inlet and use a 30A generator cord to connect to the truck. Form there, you can add circuits incrementally as needed.

This is the best solution.

 

[cdherman]

If this a large shop or you *might* eventually trench in a proper utility feed, then don't scrimp on the main load center (breaker box). Rewiring a bunch of circuits a few years down the road because you ran out of spaces is a pain. Have done that!

Load centers are cheap, relatively. These days, I won't bother with anything less than 120A rating. And get one with a main breaker (or one that is listed to use a breaker to feed the panel from a breaker slot). Main breaker, while not required for a sub-panel, is a god send in an out building. That way you can kill the power to the panel without trudging back to the house to throw the feed breaker.

Gist of my advice is that $50 more load center is wise in the long run. Only other thing I would caution -- that one remaining 15A circuit could get confusing or dangerous. Better put some good signage up -- we never know when we might suddenly not be around and you would hate for family or friends to get hurt down the road.

 

[Maquis]

If this a large shop or you *might* eventually trench in a proper utility feed, then don't scrimp on the main load center (breaker box). Rewiring a bunch of circuits a few years down the road because you ran out of spaces is a pain. Have done that!

Load centers are cheap, relatively. These days, I won't bother with anything less than 120A rating. And get one with a main breaker (or one that is listed to use a breaker to feed the panel from a breaker slot). Main breaker, while not required for a sub-panel, is a god send in an out building. That way you can kill the power to the panel without trudging back to the house to throw the feed breaker.

Gist of my advice is that $50 more load center is wise in the long run. Only other thing I would caution -- that one remaining 15A circuit could get confusing or dangerous. Better put some good signage up -- we never know when we might suddenly not be around and you would hate for family or friends to get hurt down the road.

A couple clarifications. A building cannot be fed by more than one branch circuit, service, or feeder. If he does run a new feeder, the old single circuit needs to be removed.

If the subpanel in a detached structure has more than 6 breakers, it is required to have a main breaker or other disconnect ahead of it at the structure.

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