Lightning Software Updates using FDRS

[pkirby11]

Talk about dedication to the cause.

It's all your fault man! I love doing things like this but was hesitant, you got me on board and I love all the support from the forum and want to contribute.

Sponsored

 

[rugedraw]

It's all your fault man! I love doing things like this but was hesitant, you got me on board and I love all the support from the forum and want to contribute.

"Y'all got any more of them updates?"

 

[pkirby11]

Well I did send a bug report and I did get the same error you mentioned Mike G, so hopefully they got it. I did not get any emails as of yet either. Just wanted to give you a little update.

 

[techmatters]

Well I did send a bug report and I did get the same error you mentioned Mike G, so hopefully they got it. I did not get any emails as of yet either. Just wanted to give you a little update.

Same here, I filled out the bug report and attached a screenshot of the NATSF login screen, then when I clicked submit, I got the connection error. I did this on Saturday and haven't received any acknowledgement.

 

[Maineiac12]

I’m getting closer to pulling the trigger on a mongoose for myself but I’m debating on which power supply to get.

Does the Clore 6100 really need a 20a outlet to work? I’ve only got regular 15A outlets in my garage (on a 20A breaker)

What are some other good power supply options?

 

[Runaway Tractor]

At full load, yes that power supply correctly requires a 20 amp outlet on a 20 amp circuit. It will pull more than 12 amps, which is more than the 80% of a 15 amp circuit they can design for. 14.9vdc at 100 amps + 15% inefficiencies is about 1700 watts, which is 14 amps @ 120vac.

If you have a 20 amp breaker with 12 gauge wire, just change an outlet out to a 20 amp outlet and you're good to go. That would be better and probably cheaper than modifying the cord.

 

[sstevetx]

I bought one of these to get a 20a plug. 4-Prong Nema 220V 14-50p to 5-20R/15R Female Adapter Power Cord, Generator Cord with Surge Protector Breaker for 20V 15/20Amp Household Orange 1.5FT https://a.co/d/145QvlN

 

[invertedspear]

I bought one of these to get a 20a plug. 4-Prong Nema 220V 14-50p to 5-20R/15R Female Adapter Power Cord, Generator Cord with Surge Protector Breaker for 20V 15/20Amp Household Orange 1.5FT https://a.co/d/145QvlN

Because you needed to step down from the outlet your charger plugs in to? I'm not sure what problem this solves in the context of this thread. Though I thank you because this will absolutely help me since the only outlet within 20ft of the end of my garage is the one my charger plugs in to, so I can stop using my truck to power random yard tools since the bed of the truck is the most conveniently placed outlet.

 

[sstevetx]

I only have 15a plugs wired in my garage that are shared with the rest of the house. My 14-50 receptacle is on a dedicated 50a breaker, so that adapter gives me a dedicated 20a plug in my garage suitable for the Clore 6100. I plan on wiring in a dedicated 20a plug at some point, but this works for now

 

[Maineiac12]

What are everyone’s thoughts on using 2 PL2320’s instead of a single 6100? Looks like a couple people have used that setup with no issues.

 

[ScubaSteve_TheReal]

What are everyone’s thoughts on using 2 PL2320’s instead of a single 6100? Looks like a couple people have used that setup with no issues.

I’d think that is possible option, just not what I did.
I went with a different option to use for other things later on personally. It ran me about $110
https://a.co/d/0fGmKLjF

 

[mr.Magoo]

Does the Clore 6100 really need a 20a outlet to work? I’ve only got regular 15A outlets in my garage (on a 20A breaker)

What are some other good power supply options?

What are everyone’s thoughts on using 2 PL2320’s instead of a single 6100? Looks like a couple people have used that setup with no issues.

Power supplies have been discussed at length in other threads and people have as many opinions as there are options
I did, for the longest time, get by with just one Clore PL2320 although it was getting "uncomfortable" a few times, so I figured 25% more omph would make it "safe" and I got a 25A CTek (it was around $400-500 so not cheap by any means, but it ticked all the boxes in what I wanted, compact, long leads, etc.).
I ran an update with it (the 25A supply) and this update took over an hour and at that point my voltages dropped to 9V and I thought for sure I was going to brick my truck.

That was my "oh s-it" moment and I immediately ordered a Schumacher INC100,
which is a good option as well, and came to the realization that our trucks can draw upwards of 70A during an update. At the same time I had learned about the IOTA DLS-90 which I ordered as well. The Schumacher went on sale shortly thereafter (I paid $600) and the new "normal" price is around $450 (same as Clore PL6100) and because Amazon doesn't do price match or credits I just returned mine and ended up staying with the DLS-90.

Here's my opinion on power supply options...

1. In general, anything less than 50A is suboptimal.
2. 2xPL2320, while it most likely will work, the 2.5-3hr updates should be "interesting" and there's in my opinion absolutely no reason to go with this option since the IOTA is only $40 more, the Pyramid is less, and both are much less of a "hackjob" connecting.
3. Both the Schumacher and Clore PL6100 are nice units and a nice option if you need a powerful charger in addition to the power supply. I would personally pick the Schumacher because it has a 15A plug.
4. The IOTA DLS90 has to be the best value on the market today at $200 (I paid more for mine). It's a solid unit, very clean 12V/13.6V output and has a 15A plug.(the 75A version has a 20A plug for some reason). The downside is that in in it's standard form it's only a power supply and you have to figure out the cabling (alligator clips or hardwired like I did on mine) yourself, so the first time setup is more complicated than it would be with a ClorePL6100 or Schumacher INC100.
   
   
5. I have no opinion on the Pyramid unit above, seems to work for @ScubaSteve_TheReal so it's an option although it is on that 50A "limit"
   
   
6. I would NOT recommend using one of the 50A $30 / 100A $60 power supplies on Amazon. Even though they "should" work from a (short term) rating standpoint (50/100A), you typically get what you pay for and I wouldn't be too surprised if they go up in a cloud of smoke after continuously supplying 40-60A for 3hrs. (IOTA,Clore and Schumacher all have built in cooling fans for example)
   

 

[Maineiac12]

Both the Schumacher and Clore PL6100 are nice units and a nice option if you need a powerful charger in addition to the power supply. I would personally pick the Schumacher because it has a 15A plug.
[*]The IOTA DLS90 has to be the best value on the market today at $200 (I paid more for mine). It's a solid unit, very clean 12V/13.6V output and has a 15A plug.

So you have no issues with the Schumacher on a 15A outlet?

What voltage do you set the charger at?

 

[mr.Magoo]

So you have no issues with the Schumacher on a 15A outlet?

What voltage do you set the charger at?

Nope, because...
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...programming-guide-using-fdrs.8249/post-394440

I had it set to 13.5 or 13.6V

 

[Gimme_my_MME]

Looked around and found a screen shot, this is what I was getting when trying to perform the BCM update in FDRS:

And this is what I saw if I tried to log in with an NATSF account, which didn't work:

What version of FDRS are you using? Are you still seeing this issue?