Adapter To Run Household Stuff on Circular Bed Outlet

[Jalpert]

I know I've come across this, but I've searched high and low. I don't want to buy the wrong one.

If I want to run normal household outlet stuff on the circular bed outlet, what would a suitable adapter be?

I know it's L14-30P but some of them look a little funky.

Thanks.

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[Jalpert]

Thanks!

 

[hturnerfamily]

I'm not sure why you'd want to buy an adapter to do the exact same thing that the existing 120v outlets in the bed already do, as they provide the exact same 120v output(up to 30amps each, from the 30amp inverter) that the adapter from the 240v outlet would give you. You already have FOUR of those 120v outlets to use.
You also have the 120v 20amp outlets in the cab and frunk, all drawing from the maximum 20amp inverter.

 

[Jalpert]

I'm not sure why you'd want to buy an adapter to do the exact same thing that the existing 120v outlets in the bed already do, as they provide the exact same 120v output that the adapter from the 240v outlet would give you. You already have FOUR of those 120v outlets to use.

I was thinking it would be better to plug multiple devices into multiple outlets instead of a power strip? I was thinking for a power outage, 1 more outlet couldn't hurt.

 

[Amps]

I was thinking it would be better to plug multiple devices into multiple outlets instead of a power strip? I was thinking for a power outage, 1 more outlet couldn't hurt.

I bought one of these NEMA L14-30P to NEMA 5-20R (x4) adapters, similar to the Champion 2x above:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09ND14VZF

And, an L14-30 extension. One extension gets the multiple 120V receptacles into the house:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0881CDKH5

 

[Jalpert]

I bought one of these NEMA L14-30P to NEMA 5-20R (x4) adapters, similar to the Champion 2x above:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09ND14VZF

And, an L14-30 extension. One extension gets the multiple 120V receptacles into the house:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0881CDKH5

Thanks! Haven't had an outage yet, but I want to be prepared to run the essential things if I do. Fridge and freezer by themselves will take up two of the 4 outlets...

 

[Newton]

In that case you want this one with four outlets.

Champion four outlet adapter

 

[chl]

Remember there is always the option of a neutral switching transfer switch (like the Generac 6853) and a long enough generator cord. Just be sure the electrician wires it correctly.

Each circuit being transferred has to have both the HOT and the NEUTRAL wires connected through the transfer switch (the neutraals have to be taken off the neutral bar or ground bar inside the service panel) so that the neutrals are ONLY connected to ground at one place - the Lightning.

Otherwise the Lightning GFCI circuit will detect the difference in current and open.

DO NOT LET the electrician clip the ground from the Lightning as a solution to the tripping - that is DANGEROUS as my sketch illustrates - could get a nasty shock from touching the Lightning frame!

 

[Jalpert]

Thanks for the input, interesting.

 

[Galactus55]

Remember there is always the option of a neutral switching transfer switch (like the Generac 6853) and a long enough generator cord. Just be sure the electrician wires it correctly.

Each circuit being transferred has to have both the HOT and the NEUTRAL wires connected through the transfer switch (the neutraals have to be taken off the neutral bar or ground bar inside the service panel) so that the neutrals are ONLY connected to ground at one place - the Lightning.

Otherwise the Lightning GFCI circuit will detect the difference in current and open.

DO NOT LET the electrician clip the ground from the Lightning as a solution to the tripping - that is DANGEROUS as my sketch illustrates - could get a nasty shock from touching the Lightning frame!

Truck GFI would trip and you would not be shocked.
Just saying

 

[chl]

You'd get a momentary shock before the GFCI tripped - it actually happened to an owner whose electrician cut the ground.

And have you ever had a GFCI fail? I have seen a lot of them die over the years.

Just saying.

 

[Galactus55]

You'd get a momentary shock before the GFCI tripped - it actually happened to an owner whose electrician cut the ground.

And have you ever had a GFCI fail? I have seen a lot of them die over the years.

Just saying.

Wow, if that is the case then all Lightnings are dangerous whether connected to the house or not.
I believe the truck's GFI are safe and will protect the users connect to the house or not.

Just saying about the just saying.

 

[chl]

Wow, if that is the case then all Lightnings are dangerous whether connected to the house or not.
I believe the truck's GFI are safe and will protect the users connect to the house or not.

Just saying about the just saying.

All electricity of that voltage and amperage is "dangerous" and should be used carefully.

The GFCI makers warn the user to test the GFCI regularly, anyone who bothers to read the warnings they'd know that. Why do they say test them? Because they can fail.

Many experts advice that they should be tested once a month at a minimum.

That's why they have a "test" button and that is what it is for, to test that the GFCI protection still works.

GFCI's only protect against certain type of issue, the most common, a ground fault. So if someone comes into contact with two hot wires, they are toast.

Anyway, we are talking about powering a dwelling with a generator, and the code requires a ground connection and that the neutrals only be grounded at one place.

Just like when one powers an out-building from the main service panel where the neutrals are bonded/grounded. The sub-panel neutrals must be unbonded (not connected to the sub-panel's ground bar), but you must have a ground connection back to the main service panel from the sub-panel. Otherwise you have the potential for a second current path through the sub-panel ground.

With ground and neutral bonded at both the sub-panel and the main panel, current can travel on both ground and neutral back to the main panel. If the load becomes unbalanced and ground and neutral are bonded, the current will flow through anything bonded to the sub-panel (enclosure, ground wire, piping, etc.) and back to the main panel. Obvious shock hazard!

In the case of the Lightning, if the GFCI is not working, then that extra ground path inside the dwelling could be deadly because a significant current could pass through your body to ground.

Even if the GFCI is working, suppose you have a pacemaker - the momentary shock before the GFCI opens, although maybe only milli-amps, could be hazardous. As one manufacturer put it:

"If the current flowing through two circuit conductors differs by a very small amount, the GFCI instantly interrupts the current flow to prevent a lethal amount of electricity from reaching the consumer. The consumer may feel a painful shock, but will not be electrocuted."

If the "consumer" has a pacemaker, well, that could be the end of their ticker.

The code is there to protect against most potential hazards. Don't try to out-smart it is my advice.

 

[Galactus55]

You'd get a momentary shock before the GFCI tripped - it actually happened to an owner whose electrician cut the ground.

And have you ever had a GFCI fail? I have seen a lot of them die over the years.

Just saying.

Ultimately what chl said about the option of a neutral switching transfer switch (like the Generac 6853) when you can get one is the best way and leave it at that.

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