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Pro Power problem

v2h8484

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Well I finally had a chance to try our oven on a new '23 Lariat ER at my dealer. Oven wouldn't power on using the bed outlets but would power with the frunk outlets. So my rear inverter is working properly I guess. I have no explanation as to why the front inverter works other than its cleaner power than the rear. Looks like my big power conditioner has found a permanent home.

Franky I'm kinda relieved the '23 wouldn't power the oven. I wasn't looking forward to battling Ford for a new inverter.
Since you have a workaround it may not be worth the effort to get a replacement. But your inverter still seems faulty.
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Maquis

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Since you have a workaround it may not be worth the effort to the a replacement. But your inverter still seems faulty.
His functions the same as the one he tried at the dealer. 2 out of 2 faulty? Maybe, but not likely.
 

v2h8484

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His functions the same as the one he tried at the dealer. 2 out of 2 faulty? Maybe, but not likely.
I would agree except that I have measured the output on a scope and multimeter and have not seen the erratic frequency reported.
 

Maquis

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I would agree except that I have measured the output on a scope and multimeter and have not seen the erratic frequency reported.
Yeah, I remember when you posted about that. Good info that I do appreciate. Thanks again.
 

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Just hooked my 2023 Lightning to my electrical panel through a rotary switch than changes panel electrical supply from utility to the truck. I then need to remove utility neutral from the panel to eliminate the ground fault. Everything seems to work fine except I have several recess LED cans that operate fine on utility power but strobe when I switch to the Lightning power. Pulling about 2300 watts each leg, of the 30 amp circuit and then run the furnace on the 20 amp outlet in the center of the truck. That circuit consumes about 900 watts. Checked voltage 122 phase to neutral/ground and 244 phase to phase. Seems like some kind of power quality issue with the Lightning? Anyone know of a work around for this. Should Lightning be doing this?
 

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Just hooked my 2023 Lightning to my electrical panel through a rotary switch than changes panel electrical supply from utility to the truck. I then need to remove utility neutral from the panel to eliminate the ground fault. Everything seems to work fine except I have several recess LED cans that operate fine on utility power but strobe when I switch to the Lightning power. Pulling about 2300 watts each leg, of the 30 amp circuit and then run the furnace on the 20 amp outlet in the center of the truck. That circuit consumes about 900 watts. Checked voltage 122 phase to neutral/ground and 244 phase to phase. Seems like some kind of power quality issue with the Lightning? Anyone know of a work around for this. Should Lightning be doing this?
I'll let Maquis chime in on this as he's the expert but removing the neutral from your panel seems very dangerous. Just remove the ground from the truck or get a proper neutral switching transfer switch.
 
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Just hooked my 2023 Lightning to my electrical panel through a rotary switch than changes panel electrical supply from utility to the truck. I then need to remove utility neutral from the panel to eliminate the ground fault. Everything seems to work fine except I have several recess LED cans that operate fine on utility power but strobe when I switch to the Lightning power. Pulling about 2300 watts each leg, of the 30 amp circuit and then run the furnace on the 20 amp outlet in the center of the truck. That circuit consumes about 900 watts. Checked voltage 122 phase to neutral/ground and 244 phase to phase. Seems like some kind of power quality issue with the Lightning? Anyone know of a work around for this. Should Lightning be doing this?
Even high quality inverters will often cause light flickering. We have an offgrid place with a Schneider XW inverter. When the washer is running the LED lights flicker a little. Same when my wife runs her sious vide cooker.
 

Maquis

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I'll let Maquis chime in on this as he's the expert but removing the neutral from your panel seems very dangerous. Just remove the ground from the truck or get a proper neutral switching transfer switch.
The possible problems with removing the utility neutral include:
1. Forgetting to reconnect it before switching back to utility power. If you do this, you’re likely to destroy a bunch of electronics.
2. I’d be leery of multiple retorquings of the neutral lug, especially if the incoming wires are aluminum.

The correct solution is to use a 3 pole transfer switch. It’s electrically the same as lifting the neutral without the issues listed.

Flickering LEDs are problematic. Many are very sensitive to all kinds of stuff. If your LEDs are non-dimmable, maybe try a dimmable version.
 

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Neutral removal temporary,I am installing a switching neutral tomorrow, and I tested voltages before and after loading panel, no problem. Lites did not initially flicker, but they are now. Checking with my meter now and power is pulsing to the circuit and seems to be causing the flicker.
 

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Neutral removal temporary,I am installing a switching neutral tomorrow, and I tested voltages before and after loading panel, no problem. Lites did not initially flicker, but they are now. Checking with my meter now and power is pulsing to the circuit and seems to be causing the flicker.
You'll have to search for it, but there's a thread from a while ago where someone tested ProPower for quality and I seem to recall it was a pure sinewave. I don't remember seeing anyone complain about pulsing power prior to this.
 

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v2h8484

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Assuming no neutral/wiring issues, LED flickers are often due to slow/inadequate inverter control response to non-linear loads (e.g. phase cut dimmers, etc.). Virtually all consumer inverters including ones that output pure sine wave (under no load conditions) like the Lightning Pro Power do not have control loops that respond to load disturbances between zero crossings of a mains sine wave cycle. The most common and practical solution is get LED lights with larger internal capacitors for better input power filtering.
 

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If the LED flicker continues to be a problem, know that some lamp and dimmer combinations do not work well together. Cree and Lutron have information on their websites with product model numbers which have been tested for compatibility.

I have checked the waveform of the Lightning 7.2kW inverter output. It is very clean. I did see some frequency variation, about .1 Hz on one meter. That may be enough phase shift to cause the flickering you are seeing if a dimmer is also involved. I have not had any LED flickering when using Pro Power during utility outages using dimmable LEDs.

Steve
 

IWIRE

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If the LED flicker continues to be a problem, know that some lamp and dimmer combinations do not work well together. Cree and Lutron have information on their websites with product model numbers which have been tested for compatibility.

I have checked the waveform of the Lightning 7.2kW inverter output. It is very clean. I did see some frequency variation, about .1 Hz on one meter. That may be enough phase shift to cause the flickering you are seeing if a dimmer is also involved. I have not had any LED flickering when using Pro Power during utility outages using dimmable LEDs.

Steve
Lutron Dimmer is on the circuit, and only having issues with Power Pro, not on Utility power.
 

IWIRE

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Assuming no neutral/wiring issues, LED flickers are often due to slow/inadequate inverter control response to non-linear loads (e.g. phase cut dimmers, etc.). Virtually all consumer inverters including ones that output pure sine wave (under no load conditions) like the Lightning Pro Power do not have control loops that respond to load disturbances between zero crossings of a mains sine wave cycle. The most common and practical solution is get LED lights with larger internal capacitors for better input power filtering.
Could I add a small resistive load to the circuit (dimmer)? Not sure I want to replace 20-plus lights.
 

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You'll have to search for it, but there's a thread from a while ago where someone tested ProPower for quality and I seem to recall it was a pure sinewave. I don't remember seeing anyone complain about pulsing power prior to this.
Thanks, will do
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