Class Action Lawsuit - Home Integration System

[darknla]

I see your problem clearly. You are missing the neutral wire on the load side of your WHB box. There are 2 lug connections for a reason. You need to run a neutral from the load side of the WHB to your panel board. This is exactly what I suspected was the issue. The neutral is formed by the WHB for your main panel to use, and it is completely missing.
I added in a white line below to show you where it should be here. The other end would be at your panel board connections neutral input.

So I need another neutral wire? I already have 1 going to the WHB, the one with white tape. I circled the neutral wire in the pictures.

 

[tearitupsports]

@tearitupsports, now that your HIS unit works great for you, how does the online Ford energy app work? I think you had trouble connecting before. It's still a work in progress as many would-be features have a pop-up that says that particular feature is not implemented yet. I am referring to energy.ford.com.

Interestingly, if I visit it now with my truck plugged in but no outage, I see a big START CHARGING button in the lower right. I haven't tried it yet to see if it starts my truck charging. I wonder if that START CHARGING button works, whether it's for everyday use or intended to recharge the truck during an outage that's an off and on and off again sort of outage.

I've listed the various ECG updates I've received in addition to 6.14 in the following post: https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...nt-backup-power-is-up-ahead.18856/post-429528. Maybe if your system is not working at all, it's because you still haven't received one of those updates? Mine has worked 11/11 tries since 10/2/24, with 6/11 requiring the unlock method and 5/11 working unassisted.

Nada. Just this.

 

[tearitupsports]

So I need another neutral wire? I already have 1 going to the WHB, the one with white tape. I circled the neutral wire in the pictures.

You should have 1 neutral coming from the grid, and a another neutral leading to the panel board.

 

[darknla]

You should have 1 neutral coming from the grid, and a another neutral leading to the panel board.

Thanks for the info, I will let the electrician know and hope that solves the issue. I really appreciate your help.

 

[Jim Lewis]

Nada. Just this.

Interesting. Seems to show that having a working HIS unit doesn't mean a working energy.ford.com account.

 

[tearitupsports]

Thanks for the info, I will let the electrician know and hope that solves the issue. I really appreciate your help.

Again you have a wierd setup and I could be wrong. That being said the symptoms you are seeing were the same as mine when I have the breaker off between the whb and panelboard. Might just double check that the phases are correct as well. I wouldn’t think it should matter much but I don’t know everything the WHB is doing/checking.

 

[darknla]

Again you have a wierd setup and I could be wrong. That being said the symptoms you are seeing were the same as mine when I have the breaker off between the whb and panelboard. Might just double check that the phases are correct as well. I wouldn’t think it should matter much but I don’t know everything the WHB is doing/checking.

this is what my electrician said when I text him,
"I don't think that's it. The neutral doesn't switch. It's just present. That wire goes into the block and does go to the panel board"

 

[Jim Lewis]

this is what my electrician said when I text him,
"I don't think that's it. The neutral doesn't switch. It's just present. That wire goes into the block and does go to the panel board"

Sorry to butt in here, but I'm trying to learn something from the discussion. Does your electrician have a wiring diagram for your system? That might help you if someday he's no longer available to troubleshoot it. I'm pretty ignorant about electronics, but in the wiring diagram @tearitupsports furnished as an example earlier in the thread: https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...uit-home-integration-system.21562/post-429299, there seem to be two separate neutrals. A wiring diagram would help us folks in the bleachers here understand how your system is wired. In my ignorance, I'm assuming your system hooks in between the meter and the main panel, and the cutoff during an outage is between where it hooks in and the meter. If there does turn out to be a wiring error, the original wire diagram vs. the fixed-up one would be an informative lesson to anyone else who comes along and wants to emulate what you're trying to do.

 

[Newton]

I see a 3V button battery in the pictures that will probably need to be replaced every year. It is worth a shot to replace it and see if that fixes anything.

Gotta love mixing a user-replaceable battery with high voltage wires.

 

[Newton]

For people who are reading this and thinking that the Lighting doesn’t work for home power backup, I used the 240V outlet in the bed to power my house and it worked great in a recent outage. It isn’t automatic, but it beats the dickens out of hauling the generator up the driveway in the dark far enough away from the house so we can stand to run it, finding good gas, finding the good ear protection, trying to start the little $%$##er, trying to cover it from rain/snow, draining the tank when done and hauling it back down the driveway where it will take up space in the garage for months.

Instead, plug the cord into the back of the truck, turn the truck on, and hit the transfer switch. Silent bliss…

I mean it is really super easy, I have no concerns that my wife could do it or even a responsible kid if necessary. Not to be sexist, but there is no way she is getting our manual pull generator to start.

 

[JackieDemarais]

Was that after she told you that Santa will be delivering the need parts and software to make it work?

I’m unsure as to why you think this is humorous. Is it naive to expect truth in advertising from Ford?

 

[Danface]

I’m unsure as to why you think this is humorous. Is it naive to expect truth in advertising from Ford?

No, I find it funny that the head honcho's seemed to have ingored fact that the system is complex and none of the companies involved has ownership of the full process AND MOST LIKELY there were engineers who knew it was going to be CF and were ignored. Here's what I think about the situation:

 

[JackieDemarais]

No, I find it funny that the head honcho's seemed to have ingored fact that the system is complex and none of the companies involved has ownership of the full process AND MOST LIKELY there were engineers who knew it was going to be CF and were ignored. Here's what I think about the situation:

I like you. hahaha

 

[Jim Lewis]

I see a 3V button battery in the pictures that will probably need to be replaced every year. It is worth a shot to replace it and see if that fixes anything.

Gotta love mixing a user-replaceable battery with high voltage wires.

You can turn off all power to the HIS unit, including using the M Professional app to shut down the the Dark Start battery that powers the system when the grid goes out.

You're probably referring to the 3V battery in the upper right of the first picture included in the following post: https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...uit-home-integration-system.21562/post-429427.

I don't know about current-day computers, but my older computers had CR2032-like 3V batteries for the system clock that lasted five years or more. You don't have to replace them every year.

What I have wondered about is how long the Dark Start battery is going to last and whether it's easily owner-replaceable. From the Sunrun field website for the Home Integration System, the third spec sheet down appears to describe the Dark Start battery, a.k.a. as the Accessory Battery in the Home Integration System. Link to site: Field Website - Spec Sheets

The spec sheet says it's a 12V20Ah LFP battery, which should last hundreds of cycles and not mind so much being at 100% charge. The battery has a 10-year warranty.

Delta Accessory Battery Pack referenced in Sunrun's Delta BDI commissioning instructions:
https://docs.google.com/presentatio...4lYV3Z_u8/present?slide=id.g2b14eddfcee_0_799 (from the Installation Instruction section of Sunrun's
field website.

 

[tearitupsports]

You can turn off all power to the HIS unit, including using the M Professional app to shut down the the Dark Start battery that powers the system when the grid goes out.

You're probably referring to the 3V battery in the upper right of the first picture included in the following post: https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...uit-home-integration-system.21562/post-429427.

I don't know about current-day computers, but my older computers had CR2032-like 3V batteries for the system clock that lasted five years or more. You don't have to replace them every year.

What I have wondered about is how long the Dark Start battery is going to last and whether it's easily owner-replaceable. From the Sunrun field website for the Home Integration System, the third spec sheet down appears to describe the Dark Start battery, a.k.a. as the Accessory Battery in the Home Integration System. Link to site: Field Website - Spec Sheets

The spec sheet says it's a 12V20Ah LFP battery, which should last hundreds of cycles and not mind so much being at 100% charge. The battery has a 10-year warranty.

Delta Accessory Battery Pack referenced in Sunrun's Delta BDI commissioning instructions:
https://docs.google.com/presentatio...4lYV3Z_u8/present?slide=id.g2b14eddfcee_0_799 (from the Installation Instruction section of Sunrun's
field website.

The biggest issue with this, is that it has a BMS of its own with RS-485 communication. It wont be as simple as finding a battery with similar specs, although I have a feeling that will need to happen for someone in the future.