LVB EASY ACCESS JUMP/CHARGE PORT

[Adventureboy]

Nice set up! Question…I’m in central Texas, and salt is seldom used… are there any signs of salt induced rust/corrosion on your Lightning because of it?

I would say nothing to be concerned about. The truck looks new topside and underside side except for the road grime on the underside. This is my third winter in the slop and the truck shows no sign of corrosion anywhere except for a minor bit on the heat sink in the LVB bay to the passenger side of the LVB. Not sure what the component does but it is tied into the cooling system. It looks like a cooler.

Ford started using the aluminum bodies in 2015 and they've held up quite well here in the salty crap. The previous generation generally had holes in the cab corners around 8-10 years and we are just at that mark now for the aluminum. Time will tell.

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[TaxmanHog]

I would say nothing to be concerned about. The truck looks new topside and underside side except for the road grime on the underside. This is my third winter in the slop and the truck shows no sign of corrosion anywhere except for a minor bit on the heat sink in the LVB bay to the passenger side of the LVB. Not sure what the component does but it is tied into the cooling system. It looks like a cooler.

Ford started using the aluminum bodies in 2015 and they've held up quite well here in the salty crap. The previous generation generally had holes in the cab corners around 8-10 years and we are just at that mark now for the aluminum. Time will tell.

It's your HVB heat exchanger, connected to AC compressor, on MaxTow trucks it's on the drivers side connected to the exclusive secondary AC compressor .

 

[Itaintfastenough]

on another note: I think those 'twist-lock' cover connectors for the left and right side covers are not really needed - I would doubt that anything would change regardless of whether they are 'attached' or not... I've run without them for many thousands of miles and have had no negative effects. Even if you didn't USE these covers, nothing would change.

I’ve looked for those clips online with no luck.. Have several that’s snapped off. I think the only way to get them is by replacing the panel…. Would be like purchasing a windshield is the only way to get wiper blades

 

[Itaintfastenough]

I would say nothing to be concerned about. The truck looks new topside and underside side except for the road grime on the underside. This is my third winter in the slop and the truck shows no sign of corrosion anywhere except for a minor bit on the heat sink in the LVB bay to the passenger side of the LVB. Not sure what the component does but it is tied into the cooling system. It looks like a cooler.

Ford started using the aluminum bodies in 2015 and they've held up quite well here in the salty crap. The previous generation generally had holes in the cab corners around 8-10 years and we are just at that mark now for the aluminum. Time will tell.

Thats good to know... Thanks!

 

[Adventureboy]

I’ve looked for those clips online with no luck.. Have several that’s snapped off. I think the only way to get them is by replacing the panel…. Would be like purchasing a windshield is the only way to get wiper blades

There are a few folks who have 3D printed their versions of the larger clips. One of the models is here: https://www.printables.com/model/689023-f150-lightning-trim-clip/files
If you have a friend with a 3D printer, you can get them to try and print them in something durable like ABS.

If not, this guy prints/sells them. https://www.printables.com/model/689023-f150-lightning-trim-clip

 

[Itaintfastenough]

There are a few folks who have 3D printed their versions of the larger clips. One of the models is here: https://www.printables.com/model/689023-f150-lightning-trim-clip/files
If you have a friend with a 3D printer, you can get them to try and print them in something durable like ABS.

If not, this guy prints/sells them. https://www.printables.com/model/689023-f150-lightning-trim-clip

Thanks man!

 

[Pioneer74]

Found it.

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/connecting-trickle-charger.32608/page-2#post-732359

 

[TaxmanHog]

https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-M10-Extention-Connector-Batteries/dp/B0D2M2X6SZ
https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-Extention-Indicator-Connector-Batteries/dp/B0D2M2KWFX
https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-Extention-Indicator-Connector-Batteries/dp/B0D2M15QHQ

 

[chl]

Nice setup, I to would like to find a better solution that's rearward of the Frunk zone, if God forbid my trucks LVB goes T/U I can't open the frunk in my very confined garage space, I need a port further back or inside the cabin where I could plugin the pack.

I had a similar problem, when my Leaf LV battery went dead-ish after I had been on vacation (before I set up a trickle charger).

It was nose-into the garage and my regular jump cable would not reach - I used two jumper cables clamped end to end to reach - then I bought an extra long one for the next time.

A jump location in the Lightning bed would be really useful if the Frunk won't open (manually) enough to reach the battery or jumper terminals when the truck is inside a garage.

Something like these maybe (with added wiring to reach the bed):
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/apn-ap-brp-x3510

Agency Power Remote Battery Terminal Kits


Agency Power's remote battery terminal kits allow drivers to jump-start their machines with incredible ease. Nothing is worse than going to start your Can-Am filled with excitement to go riding only to find out your battery is dead. The battery is in an inconvenient spot for jump-starting your X3, which adds to the burden of a dead battery. Not only do these remote battery terminal kits permit easy jump starting, but they also allow for a battery charger to be hooked up. Agency Power's remote battery terminal kits provide exceptional quality with 4AWG oxygen free copper wiring. EPDM rubber insulates the wiring for a stable connection that can withstand the elements. Both battery cables are capable of handling 140 amps, which makes these kits safe to use with a vehicle jump-starting the X3. The solid brass terminals provide easy access for cable attachment, while resisting corrosion. Don't let a dead battery ruin your plans for a fun-filled day of riding. AP's remote battery terminal kits can save the day!

Product features:

* 4AWG 100 percent oxygen free copper
* Simplifies process of jump starting or charging your battery
* Solid brass terminals prevent corrosion
* EPDM insulated cables
* Cables are rated for 140A and 600 V
* Easy installation
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EDIT: or locate the terminals under the charge port access cover.
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More solutions at:

https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=remote battery jump terminals

 

[chl]

Found it.

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/connecting-trickle-charger.32608/page-2#post-732359

Nice but only for trickle charging.
Remote jump terminals would be even better!

"...Both battery cables are capable of handling 140 amps, which makes these kits safe to use with a vehicle jump-starting ..."

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/apn-ap-brp-x3510#overview

EDIT: designed for a "Can-Am Maverick X3" which has a small 12v battery like in a MC for example.

https://can-am.brp.com/off-road/us/en/models/side-by-side-vehicles/maverick-x3.html

These supposedly are suitable for cars and trucks (4 AWG wire should be enough, eh?):

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Briidea-Charging-Terminals-Relocation/dp/B09VGMDDFK/ref=sr_1_16?crid=2RKJJ0VJY57KZ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GoA-3_THWGqYISuPd9jyWilsn4-Mkno0YSpLUl0H5StnXiocVZvUkqjh4I0M-tcEifWEoZNV3GPGgXl-E57nKpLW3Rz2cB_Ztn9p-HwZtTZ3wInKQJNM1qYB9t_5KhhTi-g-hyzVlYlFIP52TUxcVfd5t2KpLhdwl1JlbqykSt4jjYgEaS68VTyUNQsNJ91xEq3JGO9Qewp4E9lVYy3wGe7Zilivag3qL1b3ajv7K6XhpKrXbRQeAjTAa-QVubOtVdhuPaAwbR4VdDC-XF5g12dtlhA-yxCyw45fT9bsFv-0AyIRv_OeqsczovEuam3_ZTbg6CYUD4XuHQta1suyyYmqW7gxRnOfDgsZMT8FkaM.7THNRCZsX2I0stajht13A-5RI_EFIp9UjT4pi56UsE4&dib_tag=se&keywords=remote+battery+jumper+terminals&qid=1739055183&s=automotive&sprefix=remote+battery+jumper+terminals,automotive,83&sr=1-16

 

[TaxmanHog]

Nice find @chl seen similar setups' on drag cars, booster box, power disconnect, etc mounted on rear bumper of the race vehicle.

I suspect the starting surge current on a Lightning is lower, just need to activate system modules, trigger HVB contactors, etc, then HVB to DC/DC inverter can take balance of the load.

I have a shunt and Victron current meter that I can use to measure this current, let's see if 140 amps capacity would be needed or if a lower rated connection would work.

I was considering running this to an accessible point near the rear bumper.
https://no.co/boost/boost
https://no.co/gb50
https://no.co/gb20
https://no.co/gbc007
https://no.co/gc002

 

[chl]

Nice find @chl seen similar setups' on drag cars, booster box, power disconnect, etc mounted on rear bumper of the race vehicle.

I suspect the starting surge current on a Lightning is lower, just need to activate system modules, trigger HVB contactors, etc, then HVB to DC/DC inverter can take balance of the load.

I have a shunt and Victron current meter that I can use to measure this current, let's see if 140 amps capacity would be needed or if a lower rated connection would work.

I was considering running this to an accessible point near the rear bumper.
https://no.co/boost/boost
https://no.co/gb50
https://no.co/gb20
https://no.co/gbc007
https://no.co/gc002

Yes, let us know what the jumping current needed would be.
Most regular good quality auto jumper cables seem to be 4 AWG or 6 AWG.
Less expensive ones seem to be 8 AWG.
If it needs heavier duty wire, like a diesel engine jump might, I'd be surprised.

EDIT: since we aren't going to be cranking an engine, surge current shouldn't be too great unless there is something I am not thinking of.

 

[BlakeGJ]

I just keep a Lipo jump pack in the truck. I've jumped several vehicles with it quite easily. I don't like to directly vehicle to vehicle charge anymore.

 

[chl]

I just keep a Lipo jump pack in the truck. I've jumped several vehicles with it quite easily. I don't like to directly vehicle to vehicle charge anymore.

I am not knocking Lipo batteries...but...

I have LiPo cell batteries I use for my electric lawn mower* now that the lead-acid batteries died. Made a battery set up with two Turnigy 5000mAh, 22.2v Lipos 200A safe continuous draw (1 hour), and 400A peak draw (10 seconds), which runs the mower motor fine. The mower motor is on a 15A breaker and seems to have a running current of about 10A, so I can run it for the 1/2 hour I need for my yard without discharging the Lipos too much.

But I carefully follow the Lipo SOP guidelines to get the maximum life span, avoid fires or explosions, etc., and I always keep them in fire-proof bags when in use, charging or stored. Should not discharge below 80% of rated capacity.

I use IMAX balance charger/dischargers with them.

Unless Lipo technology has improved since I bought mine, they have some drawbacks/limitations, for example, like our truck batteries they have a limited life span based on charge cycles - estimates are 500 cycles if used gently.

Drop them on a hard surface and you'll have problems, that is they need to be handled carefully. They are sensitive to ambient temperature variations. They need to be stored at an optimum storage cell voltage level, with the cells balanced.

So I wonder about these Lipo emergency battery jump units given their sensitivity to temperature and to being fully discharged or over charged, all of which can be a fire hazard. Hopefully they have built-in protections for reverse polarity and over charging. The general public will toss them in the glove box and forget about them, in all kinds of weather.

When things go wrong with them watch out:

*Note: the mower was a Ryobi 48v mower and the battery charger would apparently over-charge them until the swelled up and leaked. Replaced them under the 1 year warranty once, they retail for $130 at HD, but new ones didn't last long either, just a little over 1 year, and I was not going to buy another set only to have them last about 1 year if I was lucky. Many complaints about that from owners, btw. So converted to Lipos DIY.

 

[BlakeGJ]

The pack uses 18650's. Teslas use 1000's of them in each car. I'll be fine.

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