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I belive that setting was removed a long time ago.

Don't trust the software limit. Mine resets to max power periodically. Then it's a pain trying to get the software limit changed back.

One side is wrong. Look at another XLT to determine which.

You'd be better off selling the FCSP now, while there might be some demand for it, and buying an older Tesla Gen 2 80 amp wall connector, and using a TeslaTap to charge your current truck. Ford is going to forget all about the FCSP as soon as the 2023 trucks are sold off.

You can only remote start the vehicle twice, then it has to be driven to be remote started again.

I agree. Ford is way behind on software. Way behind.

I've had them on 2 trucks. After 3 or 4 years, if you dont lubricate the pivit pins, they will start to rust and bind with dirt. Especially if you live in a salt applying state. If you don't clean them out, the pins get pitted enough than you have to order new pins and take everything apart...

You may need to pay for the monthly membership to get the lower price for your Lightning. I can say for certain that you don't have to turn off plug and charge to get the Tesla membership pricing. Just initiate the charge with the app before you plug in. I leave plug and charge active in...

Depends. If you don't do the preventative maintenance on the AMP boards, you'll have worse problems than a piece of plastic warping.

Had to have my passenger running board replaced at 36k miles. Did it right before my bumper to bumper warranty expired. They are ordered separately, and they aren't going to change both sides if only one has a problem. They won't look mismatched. You can't see both at the same time.

I planned my current trip with ABRP. I used the Public Charging app to navigate to our next charger while the car was charging. Worked for me.

Keep the tonneau cover open for proper ventilation.

And, this is just me, but I would install a fusable disconnect. If/when you don't want to use the FCSP anymore, you can use the existing feed to the disconnect for any amperage EVSE. You can then size down the fuses for the amperage you need. Could help when installing a future NACS device...

And to clarify for the OP, the #1 aluminum only goes from your panel to the line side of the disconnect. The copper is required for the terminals on the FCSP and must be used on the load side of the disconnect or the whole circuit.

That won't work in this case. The Ford navigation doesn't recognize the Tesla chargers yet. Unless you entered the address of the charger. But it won't recognize it as a place to charge, and might route you differently thinking you hanlve to charge somewhere else. And it also looks like the...

That is not a propor disconnect.

Yes. Make sure on "types of chargers" that you have NACS selected. Now that you have your adaptor, you have no reason to visit an EA station ever again.

I can't find the video that was posted on here, but after the guy charged his Lightning, he had some relative show up with their Tesla and compared prices to charge them. This is the screen grab I took.

ABC 85% in the spring, summer and fall. 90% in the winter.

I guess I could lock mine in the console safe. Not a bad idea.