For those who have Pro Station Charger, do you have enough capacity to install 80A?

[TaxmanHog]

Do you think I'll be able to adjust back to 80A after the update?

Yes, unplug from the truck, switch breaker off feeding the FCSP.
Remove the cover, remove the screws.
Change the switch on the circuit board to 7
Reinstall the covers & Screws, turn on the breaker, test the unit.

If it continues to be an issue in extreme outdoor heat, use the Connected Charge Station tile on FORDPASS to dial down the rate of charge as needed to minimize the interruptions.

 

[ChrisC]

No it's just an accessory included with the truck if you have an ER battery. They don't buy it back. You might be able to sell it to someone who wants it but I think the market is somewhat limited.

Mine is still in the box. I don't have enough overhead on my panel to install another car charger -- already have one we share between our Tesla and the Lightning. I have to upgrade my service to 320 or 400 Amps and then I'd have plenty, but it's just not cost-effective.

I have the same situation. I am using the same EVSE as I did with my other 3 EVs and it works fine but slow. I thought the CSP was needed to charge the house during an outage because it had push pull capability that other EVSEs don't have.

 

[Monkey]

I have the same situation. I am using the same EVSE as I did with my other 3 EVs and it works fine but slow. I thought the CSP was needed to charge the house during an outage because it had push pull capability that other EVSEs don't have.

Correct, for now, the CSP is needed for the home power backup. It doesn’t matter what size circuit the CSP is installed on for charging, it uses a separate 50 Amp circuit for feeding back to the home. It needs to be paired with additional and somewhat expensive hardware to do this.

 

[MM in SouthTX]

Will @Ford Motor Company buyback the FSP? It came with the truck and I don't need it and based on this thread, I am not sure that I want to pay the amount to install it

Reading about the quirks of the FCSP here, and seeing how I use my truck, I decided to sell my FCSP on eBay. The proceeds paid for installation of a 240V 50A outlet. Now I exclusively use the mobile charger, which stays plugged into that outlet. I get 5% of the ER battery charged per hour, which is plenty for me. Ten hours per night is 50%. Unless you are coming home below 30% and planning to drive over 200 miles the next day, this should be plenty.

Looking right now, the current bid on a FCSP on eBay, expiring in 23 hours, is $760.

 

[doccoch]

VERY helpful everyone. thank you

 

[HammaHamma]

My home had/has 200A service. Electric dryer, 2 A/C units (2 ton and a 1.5 ton), Fridge, chest freezre in garage, double oven, gas stove and gas water heater. Had no problem putting in full 100A for the FCSP and charged at 80A in cooler months with no problem. Due to overheating now that it's hot I've dialed it back to stop getting the error notifications.

EDIT: Forgot to mention I have 9kW of solar as well, not sure how/if that affects the load calculation.

Curious how yours is wired up. If your box is rated for 200a and you have 40 or 50a of solar coming into the panel, the main breaker must be reduced by the same to account for the additional load. If it's all in the same panel, you should have a 150a OCP on it, not leaving much headroom for your 80a worth of charging.

 

[Zprime29]

Curious how yours is wired up. If your box is rated for 200a and you have 40 or 50a of solar coming into the panel, the main breaker must be reduced by the same to account for the additional load. If it's all in the same panel, you should have a 150a OCP on it, not leaving much headroom for your 80a worth of charging.

I'm not an electrician, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...

Joking aside, I'm fairly certain that's not how it works. The solar power is an input source to feed the panel. The main panel is capable of handling 200A input, whether 50A solar + 150A utility or all 200A utility (at night for instance). And when solar is producing more than I'm drawing from utility, the excess is fed back and I get credits (I have 1:1 net metering, so I sell back at the same price I buy). So I always have 200A capacity to the panel.

 

[Maquis]

I'm not an electrician, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...

Joking aside, I'm fairly certain that's not how it works. The solar power is an input source to feed the panel. The main panel is capable of handling 200A input, whether 50A solar + 150A utility or all 200A utility (at night for instance). And when solar is producing more than I'm drawing from utility, the excess is fed back and I get credits (I have 1:1 net metering, so I sell back at the same price I buy). So I always have 200A capacity to the panel.

There are some weird code rules regarding how solar gets backfed in a panel. He is correct in his example. Consider that if your house was heavily loaded, you could theoretically pull the sum of the utility service plus solar, which would overload the bus. There are alternatives to deprecating the main breaker, such as limiting the number of load breakers in the panel being backfed (use a subpanel).

I think you only have to worry about it if your solar is 20% or more of your service size, so with your 9 KW of solar, you don’t have this issue.

 

[Tony H]

I went back and forth with my Village Electrical Inspector, and since I have some big amp appliances my electrical budget 100A service would not work. I found a device on line called a DCC-12 which has amp clamps on your service feed and will shut down the charger if your service reaches 80% usage. I will need to set the charger for 40A with a 50A breaker. Through my research Sun Run tested the device and it is APPROVED by them. My village inspector said he reached out to the Electrical Union and a handful of electricians and they all were of the same mind.

 

[djwildstar]

As a follow-up to my earlier report, my wife liked riding in the Lightning so much that she bough a Mach-E GT as her daily driver (which she adores above all other cars that either of us have ever owned). As I expected when the Charge Station Pro was installed, my service doesn't have much additional power available for EV charging, maybe 10A at the most.

So they dialed the Charge Station Pro back to 64A (15.36kW) charging using the internal rotary switch, and set up a new 30A circuit for a ChargePoint Home Flex at 24A (5.76kW). This is enough to recharge her typical daily commute in under 3 hours, so well within our 8-hour charging window.

As an additional safety measure, I used FordPass to reduce the Charge Station Pro to 13.44kW (56A) of charging power, so that even if both vehicles are charging at the same time, the total charger current draw remains 80A. Since 80A had been working well for over 10 months, I expect that there won't be any problems going forward. This is enough to recharge my typical daily drive in just over 3 hours, so we're both good.

 

[JRT]

My setup was set to 40 AMP, by RV cord and install and just plug into my 14-50 outlet I had installed for my 2021 Mach-e originally. The extra $7k for a new line and subpanel wasn't worth the speed in my use case. The cord was less then $40 too.

 

[Pioneer74]

As a follow-up to my earlier report, my wife liked riding in the Lightning so much that she bough a Mach-E GT as her daily driver (which she adores above all other cars that either of us have ever owned). As I expected when the Charge Station Pro was installed, my service doesn't have much additional power available for EV charging, maybe 10A at the most.

So they dialed the Charge Station Pro back to 64A (15.36kW) charging using the internal rotary switch, and set up a new 30A circuit for a ChargePoint Home Flex at 24A (5.76kW). This is enough to recharge her typical daily commute in under 3 hours, so well within our 8-hour charging window.

As an additional safety measure, I used FordPass to reduce the Charge Station Pro to 13.44kW (56A) of charging power, so that even if both vehicles are charging at the same time, the total charger current draw remains 80A. Since 80A had been working well for over 10 months, I expect that there won't be any problems going forward. This is enough to recharge my typical daily drive in just over 3 hours, so we're both good.

Don't trust the software limit. Mine resets to max power periodically. Then it's a pain trying to get the software limit changed back.

 

[Yellow Buddy]

My total capacity is 200A but it will be really hard to get 100A available for the Pro Charger, and i also heard that using 80A will cause overheating; for those who installed Pro charger, do you think it is necessary to make it as maximum 80A or just lower to 50A?

It's all about load management. At 80A I would trip my main regularly even before the Ford. I was able to get by for a while by making sure I only pulled 80A when I needed it but since the Lightning can't adjust, I wouldn't really recommend it for someone who might have multiple EVs or live in a heavy electrical household (ie, electric stove, 3+ zones of AC/HP, electric dryer, etc.)

If you do, my situation might help as it's different. I have the CSP on a 100A dedicated garage subpanel, shared by (2) 80A Tesla HPWCs and (1) 14-50 NEMA. If I were to use all of them at once it would trip, but realistically only 2 at most will be used at any given time. If I use my CSP at 80A and (1) HPWC at 48A, it'll likely trip...which is why I usually use my HPWCs that automatically load share.

At 80A, I haven't had any issues with my truck or chargers overheating. CSP or HPWC.

My main is 200A, but split so that 100A of it is supported by a microgrid. If you plan on going heavy electric, this has been an absolute lifesaver, but overall more expensive than upgrading to 400A if it's available.

The microgrid panel is also a 200A panel. Under normal conditions my inverter limits ~75A of passthrough from the main panel to feed the microgrid. Where usage exceed 75A, it will pull from a battery bank (or solar) to supplement providing an additional 75A for 150A total. It also serves as my home backup system.

All said and done I'm worry free at an all electric household. 0 gas, 0 oil, 5 EVs, 80A of charging, electric stove, electric oven, 3 zone AC and heat pump, electric dryer, well, septic pump, water conditioning, grid tied but net zero utilization from solar.

 

[djwildstar]

Don't trust the software limit. Mine resets to max power periodically. Then it's a pain trying to get the software limit changed back.

Yes.

The CSP internal switch is set to 64A charging current, and the other charger is configured to 24A, for a total of 88A charging current (using 110A of our service capacity). This is as much as the electrician would allow.

The software reduction to 80A is just for my comfort level. If it resets, it isn't a safety hazard.

 

[Ltron]

had a 14 -50 pigtailed into pro and set max to 4 which charges fine over night

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