Gunnerbill
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Gunnerbill Nightmare Train Horns
My adventure with these Train Blaster Train Horns. Train Blasters are by far the best train horns you can get for the bang for the buck. I was going to go to a custom truck company and have then install them, but they wanted $8000 + for just a 4 horn set. They had no idea where to place them, let alone where to place the tank and compressor. I figured I could save 5K easy by doing it myself, all I needed was time and beer. So I decided to do alittle research, think of what I wanted and also install the what if option. 1. I wanted the system to only come on with key. This will prevent battery drainage. (The F150 Lightning when you touch the
handle will give temp accessory power but for only 5 minutes, and haven’t found this to be a problem with power).
2. I wanted a shut off valve of the output of tank to secure air if I need to work on them. I also wanted a easy access kill switch
(toggle switch) for shut off compressor when I don’t want it to run)
3. I wanted a lighted switch to activate horns, so I can see it in the dark.
4. I wanted to place the toggle & push button in an area that was the cheapest parts to replace should I sell or trade in. (Know this, Major dealership wont buy a vehicle with train horn, a liability issue) and
5. MOST IMPORTANT !!! I wanted the horns to get your attention!! I started off with a 6 horn set 8gal tank. Bought 6 horn set WO/Tank/compressor. Bought x2 4Horn sets for the sides. (20 Air Horns!!!)
You want a high end compressor. And you want the compressor well ventilated. I wanted color horn air tubing, not a game changer but looks nice. I wanted a different solenoid output 6way manifold to place less stress on hose. The system comes with 1/2" hose but not enough, If you ask Hornblaster they will help with what you need I length. The system does not come with a 40amp relay, and I feel it is need, so I added it.
With Electric vehicles, there is not a lot of open space around the frame. But, the Ford F-150 EV Lightning Platinum has an area just behind the rear, rear wheel and just under the front doors. There is a Unistrut mounted in the center of that rearwheel, I used 6”x4” Stainless Steel plate and A/C unit rubber mounting shock pads to absorb bumps and vibrations. I attached the pads to the SS Plate and mounted the plate to the Unistrut and mounted my horn assembly to the pads. Because they are mounted behind the rear wheels, to help reduce debris and water from damaging the horns, hours are installed at a 5 degree angle facing down and a barrier wall 3” from the face of the horn. ¼” plexiglass was used to make the barrier to protects the horns from debris.
The Gunner’s Horn mounting plates (Rear & Sides) designed by myself. It is made of 3/8” Clear Acrylic Plexiglass(Scrap material I had). For the Rear horns, 3 horns on top/3 horn on the bottom for each rear side of the truck, and the sides have 2 on top & 2 on the bottom on passenger & driver side. The 12v solenoid is mounted on the inner side of the top, after cutting out my pattern, position horns and install on Plexiglass, Drilled holes for wiring and hoses. Ran 3/8" 9mm Split Wire Loom Conduit Polyethylene Tubing and prewiring for solenoid.
This system setup is “INSANELY LOUD”, and I call it my “IDIOT HORNS”. Stupid drivers doing stupid things get the blast, and in return, they let me know I’m No.1 by flipping me the middle finger. It is so loud that in a parking garage, a short blast will activate car alarms all around me and on most floors in the garage. At first I had just the rear set (12 Horns) I got so much attention that I decided to add 8 more (underside, under driver & passenger front door) for a total of “20 Train horns”. The layout is in the diagram below. I can hit a 6sec blast 4 times before I notice a change in tone.
For the tank and compressor setup, I placed it in the Frunk. I had to be able to dissemble in the event I needed access to battery area of if I took it to the dealership. I made my own base so that the Frunk hood will close. I have a spare port should I want to add an air hose quick adapter.
Installing the sides was very easy. Remove the plastic frame cover under the driver and passenger side, I made a horn base plate the length of these brackets, I have scrap metal bracket (roofing tile support brackets) and used those to secure my horn base plate to those brackets. After mounting your horn plate , hoses and wiring, you can remount that plastic guarding. It will require trimming to fit around the air horn base plate.
Link for the complete doc for installing :
https://docs.google.com/document/d/...ouid=111998093908389179246&rtpof=true&sd=true
Link for all the Pictures:
Link of video:
My adventure with these Train Blaster Train Horns. Train Blasters are by far the best train horns you can get for the bang for the buck. I was going to go to a custom truck company and have then install them, but they wanted $8000 + for just a 4 horn set. They had no idea where to place them, let alone where to place the tank and compressor. I figured I could save 5K easy by doing it myself, all I needed was time and beer. So I decided to do alittle research, think of what I wanted and also install the what if option. 1. I wanted the system to only come on with key. This will prevent battery drainage. (The F150 Lightning when you touch the
handle will give temp accessory power but for only 5 minutes, and haven’t found this to be a problem with power).
2. I wanted a shut off valve of the output of tank to secure air if I need to work on them. I also wanted a easy access kill switch
(toggle switch) for shut off compressor when I don’t want it to run)
3. I wanted a lighted switch to activate horns, so I can see it in the dark.
4. I wanted to place the toggle & push button in an area that was the cheapest parts to replace should I sell or trade in. (Know this, Major dealership wont buy a vehicle with train horn, a liability issue) and
5. MOST IMPORTANT !!! I wanted the horns to get your attention!! I started off with a 6 horn set 8gal tank. Bought 6 horn set WO/Tank/compressor. Bought x2 4Horn sets for the sides. (20 Air Horns!!!)
You want a high end compressor. And you want the compressor well ventilated. I wanted color horn air tubing, not a game changer but looks nice. I wanted a different solenoid output 6way manifold to place less stress on hose. The system comes with 1/2" hose but not enough, If you ask Hornblaster they will help with what you need I length. The system does not come with a 40amp relay, and I feel it is need, so I added it.
With Electric vehicles, there is not a lot of open space around the frame. But, the Ford F-150 EV Lightning Platinum has an area just behind the rear, rear wheel and just under the front doors. There is a Unistrut mounted in the center of that rearwheel, I used 6”x4” Stainless Steel plate and A/C unit rubber mounting shock pads to absorb bumps and vibrations. I attached the pads to the SS Plate and mounted the plate to the Unistrut and mounted my horn assembly to the pads. Because they are mounted behind the rear wheels, to help reduce debris and water from damaging the horns, hours are installed at a 5 degree angle facing down and a barrier wall 3” from the face of the horn. ¼” plexiglass was used to make the barrier to protects the horns from debris.
The Gunner’s Horn mounting plates (Rear & Sides) designed by myself. It is made of 3/8” Clear Acrylic Plexiglass(Scrap material I had). For the Rear horns, 3 horns on top/3 horn on the bottom for each rear side of the truck, and the sides have 2 on top & 2 on the bottom on passenger & driver side. The 12v solenoid is mounted on the inner side of the top, after cutting out my pattern, position horns and install on Plexiglass, Drilled holes for wiring and hoses. Ran 3/8" 9mm Split Wire Loom Conduit Polyethylene Tubing and prewiring for solenoid.
This system setup is “INSANELY LOUD”, and I call it my “IDIOT HORNS”. Stupid drivers doing stupid things get the blast, and in return, they let me know I’m No.1 by flipping me the middle finger. It is so loud that in a parking garage, a short blast will activate car alarms all around me and on most floors in the garage. At first I had just the rear set (12 Horns) I got so much attention that I decided to add 8 more (underside, under driver & passenger front door) for a total of “20 Train horns”. The layout is in the diagram below. I can hit a 6sec blast 4 times before I notice a change in tone.
For the tank and compressor setup, I placed it in the Frunk. I had to be able to dissemble in the event I needed access to battery area of if I took it to the dealership. I made my own base so that the Frunk hood will close. I have a spare port should I want to add an air hose quick adapter.
Installing the sides was very easy. Remove the plastic frame cover under the driver and passenger side, I made a horn base plate the length of these brackets, I have scrap metal bracket (roofing tile support brackets) and used those to secure my horn base plate to those brackets. After mounting your horn plate , hoses and wiring, you can remount that plastic guarding. It will require trimming to fit around the air horn base plate.
Link for the complete doc for installing :
https://docs.google.com/document/d/...ouid=111998093908389179246&rtpof=true&sd=true
Link for all the Pictures:
Link of video:
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