MrLoganRoss
Well-known member
- First Name
- Logan
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2024
- Threads
- 20
- Messages
- 167
- Reaction score
- 112
- Location
- Seattle Washington
- Vehicles
- '23.5 MachE GTPE & '24 Lightning Lariat
- Thread starter
- #1
Hi. I am working with my dealer to try and resolve the issue with my 24 lightning’s heat. If I precondition the car it’s warm but after about 15 minutes cools off. I’m unable to maintain a reasonable constant temperature for any length of time. It often feels like cold air is blowing. Sometimes it feels like the air is really concentrated on the passenger side, and switching it to driver focused actually makes it worse for the driver.
All of these things have been discussed before, but the dealer’s focus is on testing whether or not the heater can put out the heat, and not whether it’s properly heating the cabin. The approach is to set the car on max high and to test the heat coming out of whatever vent it is exiting from. I think we would all agree that it is not feasible to drive a car for any length of period with the heat on high. Setting it to 76° should be more than sufficient. It is certainly sufficient in my Mach-E, for which I don’t have to set the level above 71 ever.
At any rate, I have shared with them some of the possibilities of what might be causing the issue based on my research online. The following is that list:
(1) coolant issue (flush may solve unless there is a leak); (2) heater blower motor or blower motor resistor (my car had a recent DTC); (3) thermostat (temp sensor); (4) temperature blend door actuator; (5) cabin coolant heater module joint solder (this was a '23 recall); (6) engine coolant control valve.
They mentioned some things like “there is no coolant”, and that the 24 only has a heat pump and not both the heat pump and the resistive heater. Can anybody share some knowledge about the structure of the heating system in the 24s, and whether or not my suggestion that they test two or three other 24s on the lot to see if the issue exists on them them makes sense (I.e. design flaw)?
Your help is very much appreciated.
All of these things have been discussed before, but the dealer’s focus is on testing whether or not the heater can put out the heat, and not whether it’s properly heating the cabin. The approach is to set the car on max high and to test the heat coming out of whatever vent it is exiting from. I think we would all agree that it is not feasible to drive a car for any length of period with the heat on high. Setting it to 76° should be more than sufficient. It is certainly sufficient in my Mach-E, for which I don’t have to set the level above 71 ever.
At any rate, I have shared with them some of the possibilities of what might be causing the issue based on my research online. The following is that list:
(1) coolant issue (flush may solve unless there is a leak); (2) heater blower motor or blower motor resistor (my car had a recent DTC); (3) thermostat (temp sensor); (4) temperature blend door actuator; (5) cabin coolant heater module joint solder (this was a '23 recall); (6) engine coolant control valve.
They mentioned some things like “there is no coolant”, and that the 24 only has a heat pump and not both the heat pump and the resistive heater. Can anybody share some knowledge about the structure of the heating system in the 24s, and whether or not my suggestion that they test two or three other 24s on the lot to see if the issue exists on them them makes sense (I.e. design flaw)?
Your help is very much appreciated.
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